Recommend me some ARs/upper kits

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa...weight-m-lok-moe-ept-rifle-kit-516446780.html

This wouldn’t be a bad setup for an all-around rifle. Put a little red dot of your choosing on there and enjoy. I’m sure they have some kits that come with a sight but this seemed like a solid kit. Upgraded trigger and stock or comfort and use.

As far as the lower goes, I’ve had a lot of good use out of PSA stripped lowers and Anderson lowers alike. Whatever is cheap to get. I’ll pick a few up when I can find them in a gun shop so I don’t have to pay FFL transfer fees and shipping from internet sales.

Defining “the bottom” is subjective, so identifying “one or two steps above” it is also very subjective. For example, I don’t really have use for any factory rifle, and I generally blanket inexpensive kits, especially ones including an assembled upper, as “the bottom.”

For your uses, any Mil-spec carbine or clone for $250-450 will do what you ask, and by and large, spending a little more is only spending a little more. Personally, I’d pay more for a free float handguard and would not waste my time with a fixed front sight post, which might raise me up in feature cost, but not in quality, to a couple hundred dollars over “the bottom.” Something like the Ruger MPR, Savage Recon, S&W M&P-15 T, etc are about as low as I care to live. I start at least with a free float handguard and a low profile set screw or clamp on gas block, as that barrel can be used with anything else and swapping anything is relatively low cost, and low waste. An upgraded trigger is nice, but I wouldn’t live and die by it.

Given 50-150 yard blasting in preparation for the zombie apocalypse, I would want a 16” carbine, H2 buffer and FA carrier, telescoping stock, free float handguard, low profile gas block, and an upgraded trigger, and given my entertainment value expected from the rifle, I’d cap my expense at $800-1000, expecting to get it done for $600-800. It’s never easy for me to build a rifle without a custom barrel.

I have uppers from all 3 of these manufacturers. No complaints about any of them. Pursue their websites and find one that has the features you want .

https://palmettostatearmory.com/
https://www.del-ton.com/Default.asp
https://www.radicalfirearms.com/

I'll second the free floated handguard. I think you will appreciate having one. Also consider a red dot scope. The Sig Romeo 5 can be had for $200 or so and is great on a AR15.

I have purchased a couple of uppers from Bear Creek Arsenal and have been pleased, a friend purchased a complete lower with upgraded trigger from PSA and it mounted tight with the BCA upper and shoots well. Purchasing lowers locally I like the feel of the Aero over the Anderson but the Anderson works great. I like the M-lok hand guards over the Key-mod, but that might be because that is what my first free float hand guard was. The drop in triggers are nice but adds $75+ to the price. I just helped build a budget AR and he wound up about $300 without optics, we polished his trigger and installed a set screw for the reset and he is very happy, 16"BCA upper, Anderson lower and Delta Team LPK with stock.

Build a pistol. Document the build. A pistol can be made into any configuration later as long as a barrel less than 16" and a regular stock are not on it at the same time. And it can be switched back to a pistol, but as above, care must be taken to assure that you do not create an SBR in doing so. The simplest solution to this is to leave the brace on all the time, then the barrel length does not matter, and it simplifies changing. (Pop uppers off and on) I like the SBa-3 and 4 braces for this. I have used CDNN uppers and PSA, though the next build might be a Bear Creek, many on here have been satisfied with them. I used Anderson lowers for all my builds thus far, but the PSA specially marked ones keep catching my eye.

Cant go wrong with PSA if you're on a budget. BCM is also a good choice and wont break the bank and is very high quality.

Varminterror said:

Given 50-150 yard blasting in preparation for the zombie apocalypse, I would want a 16” carbine, H2 buffer and FA carrier, telescoping stock, free float handguard, low profile gas block, and an upgraded trigger, and given my entertainment value expected from the rifle, I’d cap my expense at $800-1000, expecting to get it done for $600-800. It’s never easy for me to build a rifle without a custom barrel.

Click to expand...

In that price range are the LaRue Ultimate Upper kits. I've been eye balling these hard for the last year or so for a 6.5G build. Having a budget is really important when building an AR I think. It is so easy for my to keep upgrading bits and pieces until I have a $1000 gun when all wanted was a plinking piece for when my nephews want to shoot.

I built this gun using a PSA Freedom Magpul MOE Rifle kit and a Anderson Lower. My original cost was $395.00. This darn rifle turned out to be so accurate I installed a Magpul ASAP endplate that has a sling swivel to make it easier to carry and swapped the Magpul rear folding MBUS with one made by Troy Industries. (I wanted to use the Magpul rear sight on another build). I added the flag ejection port cover for a little patriotic bling. I ended up with $500.00 invested in it.

PSA sent me a daily day for today that has a S&W Sport II for $499.99 and free shipping. If I had not just finished a couple of builds I would probably get the S&W.

For an all-purpose fun blaster almost anything will do if you a) choose a complete factory rifle (Ruger has really come down lately) or b) assemble the whole thing yourself.

My first rifle was an $1,100 affair who’s stock, trigger, and accuracy I liked, but nothing much beyond that. Rather than rehash how much it wound up costing me I’ll simply say I much prefer my latest assembly shown below.

$700 + an RDS. I’ve done cheaper and been happy, I’ve done more expensive and been happy, but to me, “several steps above bottom” means a better barrel, trigger, stock, and friendlier controls as a minimum, and preferably a nice handguard that’s reasonably light and dehorned.

3.5 lb 2-stage RRA Varmint trigger, lots of Strike Industries parts, Fortis CH, Phase 5 handguard, Ballistic Advantage nitride pencil barrel, Kaw Valley linear comp, nitride coated ToolCraft BCG, ERGO grip, Aero upper, Anderson lower.


Waiting for a sale netted me parts for my daughter’s upcoming build that are both functional and aesthetically nicer. Ambi-CH, ambi-selector, oversized trigger guard, extended magazine release button in anodized blue all for $100 shipped. Combined with a $10 enhanced bolt catch, a $6 magazine catch, an $7 spring kit, $60 Kaw Valley Precision receiver extension/H2 buffer/spring kit, and ALG QMS ($40) makes for a $223 lower with a 4.5 lb ok trigger that needs only a stock. If she uses it often I’ll upgrade the trigger group which will bump the price roughly $100-$200.


edited to note: $120 lower if you subtract the $45 for the charging handle (upper part) and the second safety selector that I ordered for a different AR that was part of the $100 manifest. That’s roughly the price of a PSA basic lower with no meaningful upgrades.

I agree with your build plan. It's a good way to learn the platform.

I'd suggest going to Mid-State and getting one of their Grab Bag uppers. You can specify wants in your notes. 223, Wylde, 20", etc You may not get exactly what you specify, but it'll prolly be close, and it's cost effective

https://midstatefirearms.com/Grab-B...le-Upper-w-Free-Float-Handguard-grabrifle.htm

I've done this and my bud has. Both have been nice combos with good free float systems. Mine came chambered Wylde (asked for 223), his 556 - but he did not specify chamber - only 556 as caliber, so they delivered exactly what he said...

I added a FrankenBolt (love them) and it's a solid runner. I'm in Cali, so I put it on top of a CA compliant Rainier lower and it's a fun gun to shoot