Anyone using the Lee Buldge Buster on 9mm and 380?

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GaryL

GaryL

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I have some 380 cases that look like they were fired in a very generous chamber. Maybe not an incorrect one, but I was thinking it would be nice to get them back to spec before reloading them.

But the real reason is 9mm. I have a tight chamber 9mm, and I'd rather not end up with another out of battery situation. It didn't fire (just enough out), but it was stuck, and it wasn't fun having to deal with it like that. So I checked the brass, and found another like it (loaded), and did the plunk test. Fail. It looks like my dies aren't quite able to size the full case. I don't have a case gauge, but I checked those rounds in another 9mm, and they fit just fine.

Somewhere along the way I recall seeing something about a full case resizing die, and a little searching turned up a video of the Lee product.
 
9mm is tapered. Unclear on 380. To use the BB on 9, you'll need a 9mm Makarov (?) die to push them through.
I no longer attempt to use the BB on 9 as it didn't really fix anything, at least not for me.

IMHO, you need to purchase a case GA and spend some (more) quality time with the press to fine tune the sizing.
Even then, there will be some that are just too far gone.

At that point, I cull 'em.

(They make a special roll sizing machines, but you can buy a lot of new brass for what they cost) https://www.rollsizer.com/
 
I think I would plunk test several and find the ones that don't fit. Check headstamp and sort these out before reloading. Some brass has thicker walls and for tight chambered pistols occasionally cause chambering problems...

When I got my first semi-auto (9mm in '90) I thought I needed a case gauge. But it caused more problems than not. I tried plunk testing and so far this has worked for 7 semi-autos. Case gauge went into a drawer, somewhere...
 
Skgreen - thanks for the info. I knew about the 9mm Mak die requirement - figured it was because of the taper. I'm already bottomed out on the press with my current die set, so would have to get a new die that covers just a little more of the case.

I should have mentioned that in the video, the guy was using a case gauge, but he Did Not show one case that would not drop, and then would after using the Lee die. So I was hoping someone here has been down this path and could share their experience with it.
 
GaryL said:
But the real reason is 9mm. I have a tight chamber 9mm
Click to expand...
I used to blissfully and ignorantly size and fire 9MM brass in a couple of different 9MM handguns with no isses, then one day I bought an EMP, took it to the range and jammed it up tighter than Dick's hat band. Turned out the chamber was below SAMMI minimum, SA fixed that, but only reamed it to minimum, so I still had sloppy reloads that would lock it up, despite chambering freely in other 9MMs.

So I bought my first handgun case gauge, a Wilson. Now I use it to gauge all of my sized 9MM cases. If it slips in and then falls out of its own weight, it would chamber freely in the EMP. I no longer have it, but I still gauge every single 9MM case I size. I just scrap the ones that fail. Sell it when the brass & used primers build up enough.

.3915 will pass, anything over will not and .392 was very tight in the EMP. it is shocking to see how badly a few cases fail the gauge. Most that fail are just too tight, maybe stick out a hair, but some fail to enter leaving 1/8 or more of the case sticking out. I figure if the sizer (Properly set up) fails to size the brass, it has been subjected to over pressure, a huge chamber, both, and while a roll sizer would "fix" them, I have so much 9MM range brass I see no reason to try to save it.

Wilson 9MM Case Gauge Pic 1.JPG
 
In general, forcing a tapered case through a carbide ring doesn't do much of anything for 'bloated sidewalls'.
It's been a while, but IIRC, the Mak die didn't really like allowing the base of 9mm case to pass through either. Sure, it went through, but some were pretty darn tight, and either way, it didn't really 'fix' my concern.

I pick up Range brass, so heaven only knows how worn and torn it is before I use it.
I plunk for OAL and use a case gauge on my loaded rounds.
Those that don't pass the GA test are separated and given an identifier. (Usually a color code w/ Sharpie marker)
I use them in other 9's and leave those cases at the range.
 
Walkalong said:
.3915 will pass, anything over will not and .392 was very tight in the EMP. it is shocking to see how badly a few cases fail the gauge. Most that fail are just too tight, maybe stick out a hair, but some fail to enter leaving 1/8 or more of the case sticking out. I figure if the sizer (Properly set up) fails to size the brass, it has been subjected to over pressure, a huge chamber, both, and while a roll sizer would "fix" them, I have so much 9MM range brass I see no reason to try to save it.
Click to expand...

This is a Glock G43, and some of the brass is good brass once fired, so I was a little shocked, having heard about how Glocks will typically eat anything. Maybe I'm wrong about Glocks - I've only ever owned 2.

But you might be right - I may have to invest in a case gauge to ensure it never happens again. And I do have more 9mm brass than I know what to do with. Some people say to just buy 9mm, but my reloads are more accurate, and accuracy adds to the fun factor. Or may I should say fliers are annoying - I can do that without any help.
 
Skgreen said:
I pick up Range brass, so heaven only knows how worn and torn it is before I use it.
I plunk for OAL and use a case gauge on my loaded rounds.
Those that don't pass the GA test are separated and given an identifier. (Usually a color code w/ Sharpie marker)
I use them in other 9's and leave those cases at the range.
Click to expand...

I'm a bit of a brass rat as well. Good idea though. I will probably have to sort my loaded ammo. Was hoping to avoid that.
 
For 9mm most of my brass is the range mushroom brand and have (had) fail to chamber problems with one after-market barrel (storm lake) that has a tight chamber.
That barrel became my gage and I'd mark and segregate any reloads that would not fit...problem solved.

That all changed when I started wet tumbling with pins and could see inside the cases :what:.
I discovered some common brand cases have steps or extra thick case walls.
Those conditions only interfere with oversized bullets or bullets seated deep.
I now cull out, by brand, the problematic cases BEFORE reloading...
index.php

:D
 
Nice to see I am not the only one that will have this issue with 9mm. My wife has an STI Apeiro and that thing has a very temperamental barrel. It is tight. I reduced OAL to 1.09 which all but eliminated the problem, but every once in a while we get one in there and it just won't get into battery. We are talking maybe a 1/16th of inch or less. And it is a pain the to get it to slide back and spit the cartridge out. I know it is not an OAL/ogive problem. Now I can take that same round, put it into my STI Marauder and it just eats it. I suspect it has to do with thick brass.
 
Peterk1234- I have an Archon Type b 9mm and I had a lot of issues with the slide not going into battery. The rollsizer solved the issue. It works a lot faster an easier than a Lee bulge buster set (which I had used for 40 S&W cases) now both are done via the rollsizer. Just a lot more $ than a Lee set. Rollsizer has a couple of motorized versions too.
 
I don't doubt there can be failures to chamber from thick brass or oversize bullets, but these "loads in gun 1 but not gun 2" complaints are clearly the barrel.
Once the unfortunately common short throat is dealt with, we are left with the chamber.
Many are advertised "minimum match chamber"... and frequently under the minimum.
I wonder if the mass producers are using a reamer too long and getting small chambers with a worn or excessively resharpened tool.

I use a Lee CFC (boo, hiss) and find the burnished area well down on the case, hardly ever where it would indicate a squeezed bullet. (9mm, I can feel the CFC going bumpity bump over the bands of a cast .45 and don't use one there.)

A Lee or EGW "U" die might be a fix. Sure less expensive than a roll sizer and less labor than a push through.
 
Jim Watson said:
I wonder if the mass producers are using a reamer too long and getting small chambers with a worn or excessively resharpened tool.

I use a Lee CFC (boo, hiss) and find the burnished area well down on the case, hardly ever where it would indicate a squeezed bullet. (9mm, I can feel the CFC going bumpity bump over the bands of a cast .45 and don't use one there.)

A Lee or EGW "U" die might be a fix. Sure less expensive than a roll sizer and less labor than a push through.
Click to expand...
I was wondering about the sharpened tool myself. Not likely worn, but if it was close to minimum, and took a pass by the grinder, that might be enough. Or the taper could be slightly off. Then you would end up with a tight chamber in the very spot that sizing dies don't quite reach.
 
sparkyv said:
I successfully use the Lee Bulge Buster on 9mm. I've not BB any 380s. The 9mm Makarov Lee FCD insert is required since the 9mm cases are tapered. And I always do this:
Click to expand...
Good to know. Thanks for the info.
 
I pick up range brass and there are some that just won't pass the gauge.
I mark them and set them aside then shoot them for practice in one of my 9s that has a generous chamber, then when I pick up brass they go in the recycle can.


I run into about 2-5 out of every 500 give or take. (I don't keep an exact count)
I have lots of 9mm brass so it's not worth messing with the problem children.
 
Dudedog said:
I run into about 2-5 out of every 500 give or take. (I don't keep an exact count)
Click to expand...
With range brass I have about 10 to 15% fail the gauge after sizing, and like you, I have too much to worry with those.

I have a batch of 800 Federal cases I sized/gauged that I am using right now. I loaded 500 to start, with 300 that have not been loaded yet. They're next.

Should hold me for awhile, since I don't shoot the pistol games.

Now that I think about it, I think those numbers are wrong, and it's more, will have to look it up.

Edit: Loaded 1500, with a box labeled "700 to 900" ready to go. Not like me not to have an exact number. :)
 
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I cant immagine how much you would have to shoot to justify buying a roll sizer. Do these people buy powder in the 55 gallon drum factory direct. There has to be someone john wick looks up to ;)
 
AJC1 said:
I cant immagine how much you would have to shoot to justify buying a roll sizer. Do these people buy powder in the 55 gallon drum factory direct. There has to be someone john wick looks up to ;)
Click to expand...
I did the math on how many shiny new cases I could buy with the same check. Or a shiny new press.
Don't get me wrong, I'd love to be in a place where I could write that check just to be able to play with it and make perfectly sized ammo.
 
Walkalong said:
With range brass I have about 10 to 15% fail the gauge after sizing, and like you, I have too much to worry with those.
Click to expand...
My brass mixed. Probably a bit over 1/2 is my pickups (or friends who don't reload), the rest of unknown origin.

Case gauge showed up yesterday. Finally got to check some ammo after work today. Most of it drops into the case gauge just fine. Probably 10% doesn't, but most of that sticks out less than 1/16" (it doesn't hang up on the rim). All those drop into the G43 chamber with no problem. I found 4 or 5 that stuck out an 1/8" or so. 2 of those failed the plunk test.
 
Case gauge showed up yesterday
Click to expand...
:)
It is sort of a pain to have to check them, but if you want to be sure they are going to fit you need to when using range brass.

Most of the ones I have that fail the gauge will work in one of my 9s with a "loose" chamber but they are a no go in the one with the tight chamber.
I just mark the ones that fail and set them aside so I know that I may have an issue with them.
 
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