Does barrel length matter?

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Regarding velocity and barrel length. A 6" barrel should give higher velocities than a 4", but it is not always so. I have 2 Smith model 29, a 4" and a 6". Years ago I chronographed them and the 4" yielded somewhat higher velocities than the 6" with the loads I tested. So sometimes barrel differences other than length might determine velocity. I expect that's why some guns give different results even though they have the same barrel length.
 
Personal preference.
My favorite range gun- 6" gp100
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My best revolver for putting an accurate hole in something any given distance - 10" FA
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So, I like long barrels . I seem to shoot them better but they're useless for carry. Longer the gun the sooner fatigue will set in but for casual plinking or just shooting something that needs to be shot, to me they're ideal.
 
@tbob38 I'd be curious to see what the barrel/cylinder gap measures on each of your Model 29s. If it's tighter on the 4" that would explain why it's faster.
 
At camp perry shooters preferred 3" & 4" bbl'd revolvers.over 6" revolvers
Bullseye shooters use the 3"/4" bbl'd 1911's instead of the standard 5" configurations.
The most popular bbl length for shooting silhouettes is 4" bbl.'s.
It's hard to find a 50m free pistol that has a bbl longer than 4"s.

No one shooting NRA Bulleye pistol is using a 3" or 4" 1911, 5" standard 1911s are used, always have been. In the day when they used revolvers at Camp Perry they were all 6" barrels, Colt made the Officers Match Models in 6" and a few 7.5" barrels only, Smith & Wesson made the Target Master Piece and model 14 in 6" and 8 3/8".

Silhouette shooters use longer barrels 8-10" . The longer heavier barrel helps with stability, and longer sight radius.
 
If self defense is your goal, you might find that anything longer than about 4 inches is slower to get on target. It takes more effort to swing the weight that is several inches out front of your hands.
 
More than 4 inches might be hard to conceal but its not really slow on target. I have drawn a 6.5-inch N-frame to a 10 yard A-hit in ~1 sec from a competition holster. The 6.5 inch barrel was never what slowed me down at a match. All of my USPSA revolvers have been 5 or 6.5 inch guns. Hard to conceal or sit down with in a holster sure, slow on target only if you haven't practiced.
 
@tbob38 I'd be curious to see what the barrel/cylinder gap measures on each of your Model 29s. If it's tighter on the 4" that would explain why it's faster.

Actually the prefix numbers will go a long way towards why. You start getting into the 29's that have the oversized cylinders and velocity suffers. I had a 4" bbl'd 29-2 in the past & ended up trading it. A couple years later I stumble across a 4" bbl'd 29-3 for a price I couldn't pass up. The difference in the cylinders was .430" vs .432" and there was 50fps+ difference in velocities between the 2 revolvers.
 
No one shooting NRA Bulleye pistol is using a 3" or 4" 1911, 5" standard 1911s are used, always have been. In the day when they used revolvers at Camp Perry they were all 6" barrels, Colt made the Officers Match Models in 6" and a few 7.5" barrels only, Smith & Wesson made the Target Master Piece and model 14 in 6" and 8 3/8".

Silhouette shooters use longer barrels 8-10" . The longer heavier barrel helps with stability, and longer sight radius.

Thankyou for the post. The op asked "Will I losing anything significant with those two inches? " I guess in the target shooting world the extra 2" makes a difference.
 
Unless you're a hunter and need to squeeze max velocity or comply with barrel length regulations (or both), the 4" barrel will do fine. Personally I prefer the longer barrel for several reasons, ballistic efficiency with slow powders being one.

A load using a Rem 125 grain JHP and 20.5 grains W296 exits my 4" 686 at 1484 fps, while my 6" Ruger Security Six clocks 1658 fps with that same combo.
 
@tbob38 I'd be curious to see what the barrel/cylinder gap measures on each of your Model 29s. If it's tighter on the 4" that would explain why it's faster.
Yes it would. Soon as I can either find one of my feeler gages or get a new set, I will let you know.


Later: Well I found a set but thinnest leaf is 0.005". The 4" gun has a gap of 0.007" and the 6 incher has a gap of less than 0.005". Interesting.
 
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You can get the 686+ in 5" also. It is currently made in 2.5" 3", 4", 5", 6", and 7".
It's already been stated in this thread, but the 6" does give a meaningful ballistic advantage and a longer sight radius.

It should be understood that the .357 cartridge is not limited to a single level of "power" but can be loaded from levels less than .380 all the way up to double the energy of .45 ACP. Because of this, some people call it "versatile" but its critics point out that there isn't that much versatility in its practical use. However you see it, it can be loaded with a wide variety of power levels. Because the barrel length has a very substantial effect on the velocity, the longer barrels give an even greater variety of possible power levels and perhaps more importantly, they allow one to achieve "enough" velocity with less powder. This, combined with the greater mass, results in significantly less recoil. For example, let's say you want a 158 grain bullet at 1100 fps. That is a useful load whether for self defense or deer hunting or just practicing for either purpose and its quite good for plinking steel or whatever. With the 6" barrel, you could load it possibly 300 fps faster, but it may just add recoil and no improved effect so it might be more sensible not to. So to get the 1100 fps, with a 3" gun, you might need 17 grains of a "Magnum" (slow) powder. You get loads of blast, flash, and gas. With the 6" barrel, you might only need 6 grains of a faster powder to get 1100 fps. It burns more completely and results in less flash. Your powder consumption in practice is less than half as much. There's meaningfully less recoil.

In my experience with a 3" barrel 686+, it does not have much more felt recoil than 6" if I'm shooting the same cartridge. The 3" develops so much less velocity that the recoil impulse is lower and even though the gun is lighter, the recoil velocity is not much higher. Now if I was shooting the same velocity from 3" and 6", the 3" would have a LOT more felt recoil.

Balance and handling are somewhat subjective. I feel the 3" is too fast and unsteady. With the full-undlerlug of the 686, I feel the 5" has just the right balance. The 6" might be a little front-heavy. If I were hunting, and especially with a scope, this wouldn't matter -- I'd get the 6" or 7". I think some half-lug 686's were made at some point. There are also half-lug N-frames. A half-lug 6" barrel would probably have a good balance.

Most people prefer the 4" or 3" for concealed carry or any kind of carry. A red dot sight resolves the short sight radius issue but does add to the overall bulk and limits holster compatibility. As long as I can conceal it with a big, heavy shirt or jacket, I like the longer-barreled gun. People who don't understand might think its ridiculous to carry such a huge revolver or that I must be convinced that it's so much more powerful than the kind of subcompact pistols that most people carry. I don't think that way. I just found what is easier for me to shoot well. It shouldn't be surprising to anyone that has actually shot guns and not just held them in their hands, that a big, heavy, long gun with an optic is easier to shoot well. I see it as an advantage and I don't like the idea of handicapping myself with something that is too small or difficult.
 
I just returned back from the gun store and I was mostly looking at the autoloaders but I thought "why not" and asked the clerk to check out a 686 and wouldn't you know the thing fit my hand pretty good. I walked away to think things over but I might actually get the revolver.. or maybe both? There was two different revolvers they had in stock at the front desk, one was a 4" 7 shot and the other was a 6" 7 shot. The shaved off weight was minor, but noticeable; am I losing anything significant with those two inches?
IMO any barrel over 5" requires a crossdraw carry. Otherwise hard to clear a holster on the draw from strongside. The 4" is a pretty good all around length. The 6" I associate with target or hunting and I guess is common for steel shooting.
 
4” is quite capable in 357 Magum but a 6” barrel obviously would help generate more speed. The 4” is plenty sufficient out to 25 yards. Past that brings up questions. Bottom line, if it’s for carry, vehicle or home defense the 4” is choice. If for hunting, go with 6”+.
 
I've been doing some testing on accuracy with longer barreled revolvers. I shoot a lot at 50-100 yards with .38 and .357 Magnum. Off a rest, my best shooting guns are S&W with 8 3/8" Barrels, but I can shoot 6 and 7" almost as well. It is a known fact that lighter SA triggers will help with accuracy. Here is what I'm finding, at least for me. Target shooting off a rest, the lighter the trigger, the better the accuracy with any barrel length and at any distance. BUT, with a heavy SA trigger, I find that the longer barrel guns are affected more than shorter barrel guns especially at long range. Here is what I've come up with and maybe it is a complete crock of crap but it makes sense to me. With a heavier trigger, you are pulling the gun however slight off the aiming point. With the bullet in the barrel longer, it affects the accuracy more. Does the bullet staying in the barrel longer affect accuracy? I'm satisfied it does and please correct me if I'm wrong. What started me thinking this way is I have a 12" Taurus Silhouette Revolver. With a Red Dot to make sure I'm as accurate, .38 Special will shoot 2-3" higher at 25 yards than .357 Magnum. Using other guns with the same load, as the barrel length decreases, the difference in point of impact gets closer. Please offer your opinions. I may be way off my rocker. The more I try different loads, the more it seems to confirm what I'm thinking
 
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