Professional gunsmith here, ask me anything

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LOL entropy :) If I use CCI copper plated 22lrs it's probably 95% reliable, any other it's maybe 60%. My wife bought it from her sister thinking it's be a nice gun to have to carry. I don't let her carry that one. Got her a 9mm which she doesn't like the recoil, even with my loads. So I'll probably get her a Ruger 22 revolver.
 
I have a S&W 686-6 6" with a canted barrel. Given S&W's dubious record of repairing firearms lately, is it a better idea to take it to a competent gunsmith to fix, and if so what should I expect to pay for such service.
 
Steve in Allentown said:
Here's a question for you.

Stevens Model 66 restoration project

This poor old .22 bolt action rifle (circa 1920) was poorly maintained and is worth virtually nothing except for the sentimental value it has for my wife's family. So, I'm in the process of a complete disassembly and deep cleaning of it.

I've run into a road block with the disassembly and I need a little advice.

For the life of me I can't figure out how to remove the stud from the brass inner magazine tube. I figured it must have been press fit through a hole in the knurled end cap but no amount of beating on it has had any effect. Today's Henry .22 rifles use the same design for its brass inner magazine tube.

Your words of wisdom would be most appreciated.

Here you can see the pointed end of the stud.

View attachment 889505



And here's the flat end of the stud.

View attachment 889506
Click to expand...


Steve,
That pin is just being stubborn. It will drive out with a punch used on the flat end of the pin. You are correct, it does go through the end cap to maintain that piece in place. Once the pin is removed, the spring inside the tube is going to propel that end cap quickly out of place, so make sure that the cat is NOT in the way.
 
Just picked up a nice used Beretta 92fs. Single action is superb, double action is doable even with weak hand but would like it a little lighter. Is it as simple as replacing the spring? Also what's the lightest spring weight without getting light strikes?
 
Yes.
and you could switch to the D trigger spring and install the steel trigger.

https://www.berettausa.com/en-us/be...er-spring-trigger-and-d-hammer-spring/e00691/

There's also the G conversion, if you're not a fan of having a safety.

https://www.berettausa.com/en-us/beretta-g-lever-kit/

Some people have an accidental tendency to safe the pistol when overhanding the slide. Me I just went with the G version to start with, so worst case the trigger after a reload is DA instead of SA. Otherwise just practice the habit of thumbing the level any time you're presenting.
 
BBBBill said:
If you own any late model S&W revolver (last 20 years or so) it has a high likelihood of having a canted barrel.
Click to expand...

I've noticed that in the small sampling of people I know with recent production S&W revolvers, although it seems more prevalent in the 6" versions
 
SGW Gunsmith said:
Steve,
That pin is just being stubborn. It will drive out with a punch used on the flat end of the pin. You are correct, it does go through the end cap to maintain that piece in place. Once the pin is removed, the spring inside the tube is going to propel that end cap quickly out of place, so make sure that the cat is NOT in the way.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the confirmation. Tomorrow I'll pull out the ball peen hammer and start wailing away at that thing.
 
Steve in Allentown said:
Thanks for the confirmation. Tomorrow I'll pull out the ball peen hammer and start wailing away at that thing.
Click to expand...
Before whacking it, put a little light machine oil around the pin on both sides of the tube and let it soak in before removal and use a good quality punch that won't mushroom.
 
1. How difficult is it to adjust pull weight settings correctly on a rifle with a two trigger set trigger system?

2. Is the complexity high enough that the owner of such a rifle who has reasonable mechanical aptitude and skills, and typical hand tools (plus a trigger pull strain gauge) that the adjustments should only be done by a trained gunsmith?

3. If not, can you help provide insight / procedure for the Zastava two trigger set trigger systems installed in some models of Zastava LK M70, Interarms Mark X, Whitworth, etc rifles based on the commercial Mauser action design? I've picked up several such rifles in 2019.

I have a hard copy Interarms Mark X owners manual which has the procedure for adjusting such rifles equipping with a single adjustable trigger. Here's a link to a scanned copy of that manual I found on the Internet for reference. It has a drawing of the parts detail for the two trigger set trigger system option, but no instructions / procedure for how to adjust that system.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw2Fmsy8C-Nf6suP8x4yKpJV

Thanks in advance for any insight and help you can provide on this.
 
Alaskan Ironworker said:
Have you ever seen a barrel this eccentric? And is it safe to shoot? Ive shot 10 rounds through it, but wouldnt mind a second opinion.
Click to expand...
It's safe to shoot, but the barrel was unsupported when it was tapered. I've bought barrel blanks that were like that and when I cut between centers, it evened it out. Here's the problem though, the centerline of the bore is offset to the barrel contour.

As a consumer, I would reject it. It should never have left the shop.
 
Did you apprentice or did you attend a school? There are many paths. Curious.
 
bought a Ruger m77 with a brake installed on it.these are the threads,almost like pipe thread.Is there a thread protector for this sort of thing?all I can find is protectors for factory pre threaded barrels and they look like crap screwed onto these threads.the brake that was on it is an ultra brake.tia. 20200210_181833.jpg
 
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