Shotshell reloading - What would you tell a Beginner?

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Skgreen

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I've reloaded tens of thousands of metallic cartridges over the last 5 yrs.
I've never loaded shotshell, and never really planned on doing so as a $5 box of Gun Club seems to work fine for my needs.

But, I may inherit/acquire an older 600 Mac Jr Mark V. (FIL/BIL used it previously)

I have about 30#'s of Clays & Universal. Several (yet to be fired) flats of Gun Club. (I did save the hulls from our last outing)

So, what would you tell a Beginner?

Thanks!
 
Start slow. Learn how everything works and do it slowly. At least until you get the hang of it. I had a Mec for about 3 months and never learned to like it, and I sold it. I now have a Ponsness Warren (thanks loonwulf) and a minimal homemade hand tool set for 16 ga black powder shells. Honestly if I were real serious about learning shotgun for high volume shooting, I would probably start with a Lee Load All (borrowed, or used and then sell it when done) and learn the process there on a very user involved machine before transitioning to a more complicated machine.

Shotgun is unlike metallic in that there really isn’t much way to do it in other orders. On metallic some people mess around with order of operation on the case prep side. Shotgun loading is simpler in that respect but has more components to load and measure which makes it more complicated, and you can’t simply change recipes.
 
I would tell them that it is great for loading slugs, buckshot, and the difficult to find gauges. Common shot shells for flying critters sold at wallys might be cheaper than doing it yourself.
 
On a lighter side if I went back to my trap shooting days in the 80’s and reloading a case of trap loads every week or so on a 650 I’d mount the press on a large enough tray to contain the enviable spill of shot. No joke here, your going to spill shot.

Beyond that follow a loading guide. Plastic Shot shell wads have to be matched to shells, powder and shot to ensure a nice 6 of 8 point crimp. Unlike metallic loading there’s no air space other than provided by the wads piston. This is assuming your not doing the old school of cards and cushion wads.
 
I reload 12 ga.on the MEC 600 Jr. I learned on when I was 9. Just finished 4 boxes a minute ago. You can still save money on the types of shells mentioned by GT1, as well as handicap trap loads. That said, Clays and Universal are not good handicap powders.
NEVER substitute components.

Use the EXACT same primer, hull, and wad as the source data. A change of any of the three can take a shot shell into dangerous pressure territory.
This X 1000. It takes a lot of reloading and shooting them before you should even think of deviating from the data. That said, there are two caveats I would mention; First, be aware that steel-based hulls will be harder on that MEC than brass, as well as on your guns. Many live with it, replace the sizing ring more often if you decide to load Gun Clubs. They are a good hull to load, I just don't shoot them because both my trap guns have known issues with them. Second, if you decide to load AA hulls, be aware there are two types: AA-CF (compression formed) and AA-HS (high Strength) The AA-HS hulls have a separate cup in the bottom that makes them tricker to load with bulkier powders. You may have to go to a different wad to get the stack height correct. I learned this one the hard way. (didn't blow up a gun or anything, but chucked some loads that the crimp would push up ion.)
 
Don't load shotgun shells in a carpeted room!:what::cuss:

I load shotgun shells on a MEC 9000GE, since the loads my wife and I need can't be purchased for less than about $9.00 per box, and I can load them for less than half that by purchasing components in bulk.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Use Hodgdon Clays data. Pick 1 brand of hull so your not always adjusting the crimp & taper at the last station.

Set the wad seating ram to show a tiny amount of wad pressure on seating. This will show you if there is enough powder in the case. The measure body & charge bar may have to much clearance letting the washer get pinched when bar moves back and forth. Forcing it will flatten the high points on the washer. Then washer will block the powder drop, resulting in a light powder charge. After taking measurement of my 4 Mec 600JR, i found a new measure body was needed. Mec exchanged the old for new. There is also a lot of variation in the height of the charge bars.
full.jpg This washer came with newer 600 jr. Its to keep fine ball powder (W296) from leaking from the measure.

Otherwise, read the dierections that should be availabe online.
 
600 MEC Jr Mark V works for me loading about 75-100 shells a week. Like the AA-HS hulls because I can find 'em in the grass (Remington 1100).

Ritual is everything. Count out 25 primers, 25 wads, 25 hulls, and put them in separate containers. With the right hand, put a hull in station 1 to punch out the old primer, with the left hand downstroke, put the new primer in the MEC with the right hand. Keep the left hand on the handle to drop the powder. Right hand grabs the wad to seat it and pushes the bar over for the shot. Pull the handle again. Pull again to start to crimp and then crimp. You can move the left hand to remove the shell and stack in the box. Reset and repeat.

Consistency counts! Accuracy counts. Have fun!
 
Started load shot shells when I was 12, nearly 55yr ago. Into todays money the premium shells are where you will same big money.

Learn to listen for the lead shot to drop? Some time it will hang up in the chute, when you lift the ram shot goes every where.
 
I have several mec loaders. The 600jr is an excellent loader for beginners or veterans alike. They are capable of making quality consistent loads.
*Buy a loading manual.
*If you want to make your reloading equipment and your time spent worthwhile, do your homework and buy premium components and you will turn out better loads than the cheap stuff. Choose specific loads for your intended purpose.
*Do your loading without distractions. Distractions cause mistakes.
*Look at each finished shell. If something doesn't look right, something isn't right.
*(dont laugh at this one!) I used my loading time as mental practice for trapshooting. Both require a level of concentration to avoid making a mistake. Pay close attention to the business at hand, and dont allow your mind to wander. Take a break and box up 25 rounds and relax for a minute, then dive back in to it for another perfect 25. It trains your brain.
 
Shoot some of your initial production at paper to check the pattern. It may look different than the spread you have been getting from commercial shells.

I get better crimps with 8- point rather than 6-point hulls. Strive for perfect tight crimps; shot leaking out of a poor crimp can jam up a shotgun.
 
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So, what would you tell a Beginner?

Write down exactly what you want to do and “Reload shotshells” doesn’t count.

How many, per run, how often, with, what hulls, wads, shot size, powder. Now take that information and price out the components and add that up. That’s a good starting point, to learn what you are getting into before you are there.

Some “special” stuff can be well worth it, .410, 28ga or otherwise odd ball loads. Back when cheap 20&12 loads used cardboard wads it was still worth it for them. These days it’s pretty darn hard to justify 12&20 for “field” loads, with what you can buy.

I have stuff to load them from the old Lee loaders (hammer and hard surface is all that’s needed) to a couple of 366’s that can crank them out and a couple in between, just depends but do the math up front and you can save a lot of money if you buy used shotshell equipment from folks that didn’t. I have been given used shotshell presses by people that figured out the hard way the tiny or upside down margins.
 
Don't plan on loading new hulls. Buy a case of Remington STS, fire those and reload the empties until they have little holes around the crimp or look really burned. I don't find that you can buy the new hulls everyone recommends. I have played around with new Federals and imports and consider that more advanced loading.
 
Been watching the thread as shotgun has interested me. The biggest drawback was the high cost of supplies vs commercial ammo.

I may get there but yet still to come.
 
I enjoy reloading and I shoot primarily skeet so loading my own shot shells is a bit of a no brainer. Plus, I shoot all four gauges. Lots of savings to be had loading 28 gauge and .410 bore.

The 600jr is a good press to start with. I have four, one set up for each gauge. The Mec 600jr can be changed over to another gauge but you will only do it once.

When I started shooting competitive skeet several decades ago, I decided to stick with one brand of hull for each gauge. I'd buy a case of premium target ammunition and then reload the empties. I'd use the new ammunition for tournaments and the reloads for practice. The reloading life of the premium hulls is longer than the budget priced on ammunition.

Primarily for 12 gauge, you can reload light loads such as 1 oz or 7/8 oz loads. Components for these loads are more available than loaded ammunition.

For critters around the farm or on the rare occasion that I go hunting, I buy hunting ammunition. 25 pounds of larger shot for hunting loads would last me a lifetime.

Paraphrasing jmooris, determine what your objectives are for shot shell loading and go from there.
 
Thanks for the insight!
My needs are quite simple. Just me and the Wife doing a little 'throw your own' at the public range,
Quite frankly, if I had to pay for a press, I doubt I'd bother with any of it, but to have one given to me seems like an opportunity to at least 'test the waters'.
Thanks everyone!
 
I bought my MEC ( Mayville Engineering Company , Mayville WI) 600 Jr in 1974 when I also bought a Rem 870 Wingmaster 12 gauge. Back then I reloaded field loads for pheasant, ducks , and geese. That was pre- steel era. I shot Trap some, so I got a charge bar for that. Back then the charge bars did NOT have powder bushings, I still have a couple of them-- but do not use them. The only time I had shot spilling on the floor was with # 5 copper plated shot. So I just spun the shot drop tube so that there was no bridging , and prevented the shot from dropping after the drop tube was above the shell casing. In about 1997 when I got a Rem 1100 LW 20 gauge, so I got 20 gauge dies. You don't want to change them back and forth with 12 gauge dies, as it gets to be a pain . For awhile in the mid 1970's I had a 10 gauge, and bought reloading dies, I finally sold the dies in 2014 because I sold the shotgun in the late 1970's. My son began shooting Trap, and BORROWED my Mec 600 Jr. I finally bought him a MEC progressive Grabber in about 1992 to get mine back. Four years ago my son gave me the Grabber because he didn't use it . Now the 600 Jr is set up for 20 gauge, and the Grabber is for 12 so there is no more die changing. I have more shot spills with the progressive Grabber than I ever had with the 600 Jr. So I mounted the Grabber to a 12 inch wide board , and built a 5 1/2 inch high wood box fixed to the 12 inch wide board. I made the 12 inch wide base longer than the surround so I could clamp the front and back on a table.

So why do I reload. In 1996 the radiological lab I worked in closed. I was there till the end cleaning up. They had a sample containment vessel that had double walls with about a 2 inch space between them. The outside of the vessel was about 2 feet square, and it was on heavy duty wheels. The used lead shot for shielding in the vessel. There were about 6 bags + 1 part bag of shotgun reloading shot left over after the vessel was filled . I asked about them, and I got them free. The asked me If I wanted the shot in the vessel because it was never used and was not HOT. But back then shot was about $11 to $12 a bag so I just took the bags. Fast forward to 2016 then I started shooting Sporting Clays and Trap, those bags didn't last too long. Now I buy shot at the club I shoot at. Last December I went to Palmetto State Armory and the must have been getting out of the reloading business, or the Green Dot they had was not selling, so I payed $15 a pound out the door, including tax. I got all 6 pounds they had because it usually costs about $25 including tax. So now I have a powder, shot, and wad load that patterns great out of my Beretta Silver Pigeon Sporting 12 gauge. It is equal to the high end factory loads.

So I reload to get the best pattern out of my shotgun. The 870 liked different loads than the Beretta. So there you go. Just go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a 36 inch roll of rosin paper, or paper that is used to protect floors during construction. Put an orange rifle shooting dot in the center of a 36 by 36 inch piece of paper and mount it to a wooden patterning frame and try out your loads to see what patterns best. Checking out how your shotgun shoots is just as important as how your rifle or pistol shoots with selected hand loads. BUT as stated in previous posts, do NOT alter the loading recipes in the reloading books. You can also go online to Alliant or Hodgon powder sites and print out loading recipes for the brand of hull and ounce loading you want to use. They will give you choices of powder in grains, which primer, and which wad for several different load speeds.
 
Thanks for the memories! I used to shoot skeet and trap with my dad back in the 60’s, and with two of us that was a minimum of 200 rounds a week I got to reload on a 650 jr. It was Federal Champion Paper hulls, and AA12S powder. The press will do a fine job for reloading and you’ve gotten a lot of good advice on the technique. Good luck!
 
I've reloaded tens of thousands of metallic cartridges over the last 5 yrs.
So, what would you tell a Beginner?
DON'T !!

Don't start reloading shotshell unless you have a definite need for weird loads (7/8oz in 12ga), volume ammo (500+ per week), or belong to a gun club that sells re-cycled shot. And that last point is important. It's the cost of shot that makes reloading shotshell expensive. One serious cost analysis of lead shot will show you.
 
DON'T !!

Don't start reloading shotshell unless you have a definite need for weird loads (7/8oz in 12ga), volume ammo (500+ per week), or belong to a gun club that sells re-cycled shot. And that last point is important. It's the cost of shot that makes reloading shotshell expensive. One serious cost analysis of lead shot will show you.
The problem I would have with that is the rebates are seasonal, so then the premium one pays other times for loads light enough for cowboy action shooting or any other need for lighter recoil in a 12 GA. I am not sure of the context for stating one might as well shoot new shells. Frankly, I enjoy loading shotshells but might feel differently if using more than 100 a month.
 
I have two MEC 600Jr reloading presses, one for 410 and the other for 12. The 12 gauge press has sat idle for at least 10 years. Now it is still cheaper for me to reload 410 shells versus buying.

As others have all ready said: Do NOT substitute components, stick to what the reloading manuals say! This can't be stated enough.

I always put a cookie sheet underneath my MEC to catch any spilt shot and powder. Trust me, you will spill some.
 
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