What's the best oil to remove lead from your gun? And prevent lead buildup?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Aim1

member
Joined
Oct 24, 2015
Messages
2,310
I thought someone on here said Slip2000 worked the best for removing lead from your gun but I couldn't find the thread. I also thought they said if you lightly coat the gun in Slip2000 prior to shooting it the lead will be much easier to remove later on when cleaning.

I've heard of Lewis Lead Removal tool but what oil/lead remover is best to use with it.

I'm more talking mostly about shooting wadcutters, semi-wadcutters, lead round nose and such from a revolver but any gun is fine.

What's the best oil to remove lead from your gun?

What's the best oil to coat the gun to prevent lead buildup?
 
Last edited:
Oil has absolutely no impact on lead. None.

There may be bore scrubbers that offer some lead diminishing properties but I am unaware of them.

The single most effective thing for lead removal is grease. Elbow grease.

Use your favorite bore cleaner. Then, take an old bronze or copper brush that is a tight fit in the bore. Wrap some addition bronze wool around it. Start cleaning. Every couple of minutes, run a fresh patch with your favorite solvent/cleaner on it. Back to the brush. JB Compound on a patch and tight jag will also work well. Eventually, it will be clean.
 
Lead wipe away cloth works new wonders, every time I use it. Several places make it but I remember Birchwood Casey. A yellow heavier cloth, medium yellow color, tacky feel. Cut a small piece and wrap around a one size down brush, work it through the afflicted areas such as forcing cone, cylinder face.
BEWARE your blueing, it will affect it over time, and that quickly.

Another product is from Shooters Choice:thumbup: and simply titled Lead Remover.

Both are on Amazon. Boom. Over.
 
To reduce lead build up slug your bore and ensure that you are using a properly fit projectile to your bore diameter.

There are some lead removing cleaners but elbow grease and copper chore boy or bronze brushes are needed to get lead ou .
 
Lead wipe away cloth works new wonders, every time I use it. Several places make it but I remember Birchwood Casey. A yellow heavier cloth, medium yellow color, tacky feel. Cut a small piece and wrap around a one size down brush, work it through the afflicted areas such as forcing cone, cylinder face.
BEWARE your blueing, it will affect it over time, and that quickly.

Another product is from Shooters Choice:thumbup: and simply titled Lead Remover.

Both are on Amazon. Boom. Over.

Will the Shooters Choice eat the bluing too?
 
In oils, I use Kroil followed by Slip 2000EWL.

Soak a patch or swab in Kroil, and wet the bore well. Let soak for 15 to 30 minutes rewetting periodically. Then use a bronze brush.

Punch the bore dry, and follow with Slip2000.

This regemine helps removed the gross lead, but won't make a barrel clean. I use it to shoot more and clean less, between deep cleanings.
 
Yes indeedy re Kroil and a short soak time. Stuff seems to loosen fouling (lead, carbon, plastic, even copper to some degree).
Bench rest guys use it before and after their JB's non-embedding bore cleaning compound.
I'm not even a bench rest shooter, I just use it as a first step to bring down the elbow grease quotient.
I personally finish up with a little G96.
 
There is no chemical advantage to one oil over the other in regards to lead as I understand it.

Thank got too. You don’t want that stuff mobilized and vectored into your skin by a solvent. But people should be wearing gloves anyway.
 
I find that a bore brush, bore brush wrapped in Chore-boy, and even a Lewis lead remover all work better on a degreased barrel. Oil or any lubrication seems to not let the various forms of brass/bronze/copper bite into the lead fouling and thus it takes a lot more elbow grease (pun intended) to de-lead a badly fouled barrel that is oiled then one that has be degreased with a solvent. I de-lead dry and then clean with oil after I get the lead out.

Best option is find bullets that don't lead. :D
 
Boretech Eliminator - not an oil but a cleaner
Pipe screens - not an oil but a mechanical remover
http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/ - not an oil but a mechanical remover, much better than a choreboy.
Hydrogen peroxide and vinegar - not an oil but it removes lead very quickly
Mercury - not an oil but it removes leading in seconds
 
Boretech Eliminator - not an oil but a cleaner
Pipe screens - not an oil but a mechanical remover
http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/ - not an oil but a mechanical remover, much better than a choreboy.
Hydrogen peroxide and vinegar - not an oil but it removes lead very quickly
Mercury - not an oil but it removes leading in seconds

Those last two are a bit on the toxic side for those not in the know. Make sure you do a little research before using them. They do work well but come with a certain level of risk.
 
The Big 45 and the Lewis are the most effective I have used. As said, use them dry.
Mercury works, but is now considered a hazardous material and I don't know where you would get enough to fill a gun barrel. Elmer Keith said blue ointment would work, but I don't know where one would find that today, either. Not to be confused with Blue Star brand of ointment.

Vinegar and hydrogen peroxide will work on stainless, don't know what it would do on CM, besides remove the blue, which it will. Problem is, it coverts the relatively inert metallic lead to soluble and toxic lead acetate.

The Outers Foul Out electrolytic cleaner would remove lead, but it is no longer made although you can find plans for home built.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mcb
Give coated bullets a try. I use Acme Hitek coated lead SWC in 38 and 44 with no leading. Not much more expensive than regular lubed lead and way cheaper than plated or jacketed. No smoke, reloading is easy, and simple firearm cleanup.
 
I find that a bore brush, bore brush wrapped in Chore-boy, and even a Lewis lead remover all work better on a degreased barrel. Oil or any lubrication seems to not let the various forms of brass/bronze/copper bite into the lead fouling and thus it takes a lot more elbow grease (pun intended) to de-lead a badly fouled barrel that is oiled then one that has be degreased with a solvent. I de-lead dry and then clean with oil after I get the lead out.

Best option is find bullets that don't lead. :D


What's the best degreaser and how do you use it?
 
What's the best degreaser and how do you use it?

Probably not the best but a quick spray of Remington Action Cleaner or (brake cleaner in a pinch but be careful with that and some wood finish and plastics) down the bore and on my bore brush and that gets most of the oil off in short order. Just be sure to re-oil cause it takes all the oil off.
 
Will the Shooters Choice eat the bluing too?

I haven't experienced that. That said, if it's strong enough to clean any metal onto metal in this case, lead on steel, I would be cautious. As with any solvent, on any opposite surface. Another example would be, any fouling solvent on the synth. stock area:scrutiny:
 
I have an old .22 that must never have seen a brush , she is so full of lead you can hardly see the rifleing I guess im going to pick up some chore boys and spend an afternoon scrubbing it out
 
I have an old .22 that must never have seen a brush , she is so full of lead you can hardly see the rifleing I guess im going to pick up some chore boys and spend an afternoon scrubbing it out
Very likely not lead. It's probably wax lube which isn't terrible to clean. Plug barrel, fill with solvent and let stand overnight. Run a brush and few patches next day.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top