Another guy having dilemma choosing his first lever action cartridge

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So to conclude of this thread, I've decided on Marlin .357 18". Thanks to all the comments.

This is the one I bought just now: https://www.guns.com/firearms/rifle...r-action-10-rounds-18-barrel-6-4-used?p=46151

Zooming in one of the pictures, this mark right here very much resembling "JM" to me:
View attachment 904102

Serial number starts with "MH", not "MR", although I can't find any decoding for MH.
View attachment 904103

And there's no "REP" or "REM" on the right
View attachment 904106


The gun is probably 19+ years old, but certified by guns.com and, as per the description, it's never been fired (how can that even be true...).

So, unless there's something seriously wrong with the "CS" models, $600 is a very good deal that I cannot pass.

That looks like a fine 1894. Congrats!

Per your close up photos, the barrel roll mark shows New York and the receiver has that square code reader mark in front of the serial number. Both of those indicate that Marlin is a Remington Marlin made in the last few years.

I'm pretty sure all pre-Remington Marlins have some abbreviation for Connecticut on the barrel.

Not to worry, though. Those pics look like a very good 1894 you bought yourself. :thumbup:
 
If you do not want a rifle for DEFENSE, HUNTING, or PLINKING I am wondering what you do need it for? I guess having a gun JUST to have one is a good enough reason. I like the idea of matching pistol/rifle calibers. That simplifies buying and allows for easier stockpiling of ammo. The other line of reasoning is that you might want to consider a cartridge for the most demanding application of the gun.

I see you bought one.... Sorry for my moot response.

VERY NICE RIFLE!
 
^^^^^
I got one new in 2019.

I've only shot it twice and I can tell it's going to be a keeper at minimum and very possibly a favorite.
 
While I love my Marlins in .357, if I could only have one lever-action (God forbid!), it would be an older, good condition Marlin 336 in 30-30.
 
That looks like a fine 1894. Congrats!

Per your close up photos, the barrel roll mark shows New York and the receiver has that square code reader mark in front of the serial number. Both of those indicate that Marlin is a Remington Marlin made in the last few years.

I'm pretty sure all pre-Remington Marlins have some abbreviation for Connecticut on the barrel.

Not to worry, though. Those pics look like a very good 1894 you bought yourself. :thumbup:

With a QR code on it? Not so sure on that. I think chicarrones is right, it was probably made under Remington. Still looks like a good rifle. Lets know how it shoots for you!

Yeah I forgot that QR code is a recent thing. It's the "CS" part that misled me.

Lucky for me that the allow the FFL to open from today. Will update again once I got it.
 
My next purchase will be a lever 44 mag. Now trying to decide if I want a Rossi or spend a few more bucks and get a Henry.
 
Ok I think I am long overdue for sharing my purchase in this topic as promised.
Here are the photos: https://imgur.com/a/uJBL2qW

Then here are my thoughts after a few weeks DRY FIRING with it - well, the ranges are not open so dry fire is as much as I can do for now:
1. The lever has a weird interim position and I'm not it's normal or faulty. One thing for sure though is it makes cycling the gun a less smooth than I expected: https://imgur.com/Af8UgE8
2. When I pull the trigger, it move loosely a little bit, then hard stop, then I have to put more pressure to be able to pull it all the way. Again, I'm not sure if that's normal for this gun or an issue. I would expect a one smooth movement with equal weight.
3. I thought I would love the loading gate more than the tube, but now I know I was wrong. Pushing the rounds through the loading gate is not an easy experience, especially the last couple ones when spring's resistance is stronger. Besides, the round must be in the correct position to be push into the tube. Lastly, I cannot relax on the idea of pushing a bullet's tip against the primer of another round.
4. The safety pin is really useless when the hammer can be put into a half cock position to prevent the gun from being fired, even when the trigger pulled (well, you really can't pull the trigger in that case).
5. The loading gate instantly receives scratches after loading the very first few rounds into the gun

Other than the above, the overall feeling of holding the gun in resting & shooting position are great.
 
I think it's part of the cartridge elevator, intended to keep cartridges in the tube magazine inside while the elevator is up so they don't spring into the action and jam up the works.
 
Ok I think I am long overdue for sharing my purchase in this topic as promised.
Here are the photos: https://imgur.com/a/uJBL2qW

Then here are my thoughts after a few weeks DRY FIRING with it - well, the ranges are not open so dry fire is as much as I can do for now:
1. The lever has a weird interim position and I'm not it's normal or faulty. One thing for sure though is it makes cycling the gun a less smooth than I expected: https://imgur.com/Af8UgE8
2. When I pull the trigger, it move loosely a little bit, then hard stop, then I have to put more pressure to be able to pull it all the way. Again, I'm not sure if that's normal for this gun or an issue. I would expect a one smooth movement with equal weight.
3. I thought I would love the loading gate more than the tube, but now I know I was wrong. Pushing the rounds through the loading gate is not an easy experience, especially the last couple ones when spring's resistance is stronger. Besides, the round must be in the correct position to be push into the tube. Lastly, I cannot relax on the idea of pushing a bullet's tip against the primer of another round.
4. The safety pin is really useless when the hammer can be put into a half cock position to prevent the gun from being fired, even when the trigger pulled (well, you really can't pull the trigger in that case).
5. The loading gate instantly receives scratches after loading the very first few rounds into the gun

Other than the above, the overall feeling of holding the gun in resting & shooting position are great.

Lever actions have been loaded like that ever since Winchester's 1866 model, or the "Improved Henry" was marketed. It's really no problem. Also, keep in mind that the nose-to-tail arrangement of the rounds in every tube fed lever gun since 1860. It's safe.
Just don't use spire bullets. I used to shoot .30-30 accelerators through my Winchester 1894 . They're .22 caliber saboted rounds which are spire points, but I fed them each individually into the breech.
There have been bad things that happen when pointy bullets are used in tube fed guns, but if you don't use them, don't worry.

As for scratches on the loading gate, hey, that's character. Tools get used.
 
Nam Le, wrote: Ok I think I am long overdue for sharing my purchase in this topic as promised.
Here are the photos: https://imgur.com/a/uJBL2qW

Then here are my thoughts after a few weeks DRY FIRING with it - well, the ranges are not open so dry fire is as much as I can do for now:
1. The lever has a weird interim position and I'm not it's normal or faulty. One thing for sure though is it makes cycling the gun a less smooth than I expected: https://imgur.com/Af8UgE8
Normal. There is a spring loaded plunger on the lever (in front of the trigger) that is snapping into the frame that you are overcoming. You can see it right against the frame on the lever in your photo. That plunger helps keep the lever closed. Put a drop of oil on it so the oil goes down the sides of the plunger.

2. When I pull the trigger, it move loosely a little bit, then hard stop, then I have to put more pressure to be able to pull it all the way. Again, I'm not sure if that's normal for this gun or an issue. I would expect a one smooth movement with equal weight.
The stock Marlin trigger on that gun is normally a bit floppy until you pre-load it with your finger. You can think of it as a two stage trigger without the full spring return to keep the flop out of it.

3. I thought I would love the loading gate more than the tube, but now I know I was wrong. Pushing the rounds through the loading gate is not an easy experience, especially the last couple ones when spring's resistance is stronger. Besides, the round must be in the correct position to be push into the tube.
From my limited research, Marlin magazine springs are over sprung and are supposedly made for their 20" barreled 1894s. Yet, Marlin still uses the same 20" barrel magazine springs in their 18.5" and 16.5" barreled 1894s. Which makes for a hard time filling the magazine. The answer there is to cut down the mag spring by about 3" for 18.5" barreled guns and about 5" on 16.5" barreled guns. Not an easy task unless you are confident in taking the gun apart.

Another issue is the cartridge rim of .357s get hung up going into the second frame opening on the way into the magazine tube. The loading gate is the first frame opening, but where the magazine mounts to the frame (aka receiver) is the second opening. You can tell this is the case because the first cartridge you load into an empty magazine goes in fairly smoothly, but when you push in the second cartridge the first cartridge's rim in is now hanging up on the second frame opening (which is out of view with the gun assembled).

This video shows what has to be done to the second frame opening to make the loading of cartridges easier in .357 magnum 1894s.This modification actually does more for the gun than shortening the magazine spring.


Lastly, I cannot relax on the idea of pushing a bullet's tip against the primer of another round.
To fire, primers need a sharp blow from something with a pointed tip. Like a firing pin or a pointed bullet from a different kind of cartridge not meant for tube magazines. Even if you loaded a tube magazine from the front (Henry style), the bullets are still pressing on the primers under magazine spring pressure (and recoil adds to that when the gun is fired). Blunt nose bullets are safe for both types of tube magazines.

4. The safety pin is really useless when the hammer can be put into a half cock position to prevent the gun from being fired, even when the trigger pulled (well, you really can't pull the trigger in that case).
Kinda weird compared to other guns, but normal for a Marlin. Plus, the hammer has to be on half cock (or full cock) to use the safety.

5. The loading gate instantly receives scratches after loading the very first few rounds into the gun.
Yep, normal again.

Other than the above, the overall feeling of holding the gun in resting & shooting position are great.
 
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Yes it is part of the lifter. It keeps the next shell in the magazine from slipping under the lifter while it is in the up position feeding the round on the lifter into the chamber. You can see it clearly in this animation.


Its function is pretty clear starting at about 25 seconds.


Thanks for posting that. I've never seen it before. :thumbup:
 
Thanks for posting that. I've never seen it before. :thumbup:
No problem. It's from a computer program sold on the game distribution system called Steam. Its called World of Guns: Gun Disassembly. It has over 200 weapon systems in it with similar detail. You can go in and make various parts visible, ghosted, or hidden. Its a pretty cool programs. A lot of the weapons have been turned into short YouTube clips like I linked.
 
1. The lever has a weird interim position and I'm not it's normal or faulty. One thing for sure though is it makes cycling the gun a less smooth than I expected:

As Chiccarones notes, normal.

2. When I pull the trigger, it move loosely a little bit, then hard stop, then I have to put more pressure to be able to pull it all the way. Again, I'm not sure if that's normal for this gun or an issue. I would expect a one smooth movement with equal weight.

As Chicarrones notes, again, normal. Marlin 336's are not noted for their premier triggers, but they get the job done well enough.

3. I thought I would love the loading gate more than the tube, but now I know I was wrong. Pushing the rounds through the loading gate is not an easy experience, especially the last couple ones when spring's resistance is stronger. Besides, the round must be in the correct position to be push into the tube. Lastly, I cannot relax on the idea of pushing a bullet's tip against the primer of another round.

Both methods are a pain in the butt to load a gun compared to a magazine, and as you know, limit the type of bullets. I, too, do not like loading tube mags for the reason you mention, and I choose bullets (I reload for .30-30) with a wide, flat tip for that reason. The is a brand of bullet, called Leverevolution, available as loaded ammo by Hornady, that has a foam, soft point that won't set a primer off, but gives a better shape for aerodynamics. I haven't tried them myself, but others here will know more about them.

4. The safety pin is really useless when the hammer can be put into a half cock position to prevent the gun from being fired, even when the trigger pulled (well, you really can't pull the trigger in that case).

Yes, that is true. The cross-bolt safety is there mostly for hunting use. For many generations, lever actions were not considered a good choice for beginning hunters because to be safe one had to carry it with the magazine full, and chamber empty. Working the action to load one tends to scare game away. Many experienced hunters would carry their Marlin or Winchester lever action on half-cock, but it has happened where the half-cock notch in a rifle would fail, (often when dropped from a tree stand or the hammer stuck on a tree limb while climbing), or a nervous novice would try to put it on half-cock and slip causing an accidental discharge. The cross-bolt safety on your Marlin allows you to have the hammer fully back while hunting, so the game will only hear the safety's "snick" as you push it in, or with practice it can be done silently.

5. The loading gate instantly receives scratches after loading the very first few rounds into the gun

Yes, most of it is brass or lead rubbing off on the gate, and comes off with a cleaning solvent like Hoppe's #9.

BTW, Chiccarones did a good job of answering your questions, I just wanted to expand on the reason for the safety. Glad you like your new rifle, Nam Le, may it bring you much joy.
 
Thanks everyone for giving answers to my points very quickly. It's amazing how active this community is.
I can't wait for the range to open.
 
The gun is probably 19+ years old, but certified by guns.com and, as per the description, it's never been fired (how can that even be true...)[/QUOTE
[/QUOTE

Actually, the quote from the ad is "appears to have never been fired". That's different than a definitive "never been fired".

In any case, enjoy your new carbine!
 
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