Loctite for scope mounts/rings?

Yes, blue loctite.

I don't put loctite on ring screws.I do put it under a base if I don't epoxy bed it and on the base screw.
Honestly I don't feel it's really necessary, but it makes me FEEL more secure.

Only on the base screws, never on ring screws. Never red, only blue. So in your situation OP I would not use loctite, especially since the firearm has negligible recoil.

Blue.

I quit doing that years ago. I invested in a torque wrench and have had no problems.

I’m with #7, I torque them and they don’t back out, even on my 50 BMG. They will be fine on a .22 for sure.

There are probably more .22’s with scopes mounted on them, without threadlocker, that don’t move, than there are people in the world that know what thread locker is.

I may epoxy and or use loctite on the base but just haven’t found the need on rings.

If you want to it’s not going to hurt anything unless it doesn’t want to let go when you want it to in the future.

If your leaning towards not using it but want to make sure the screw isn’t moving, just put a witness mark on them. Easy to see from a distance if they are moved. With lots of critical things this is done even when thread locker is used.



Allows one to detect any fastener movement at a glance. Even better for fasteners that have thread locker on them because once cured you can’t just recheck them for proper torque.

Walkalong said:

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What brand of wrench is that? I keep saying I’m going to upgrade my Fat Wrench.

jmorris said:

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Allows one to detect any fastener movement at a glance. Even better for fasteners that have thread locker on them because once cured you can’t just recheck them for proper torque.

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I like that idea. I used to do the same thing with my compound bow sight but never thought of doing that on rings and bases.

cdb1 said:

What brand of wrench is that? I keep saying I’m going to upgrade my Fat Wrench.

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Looks like a Sunex click style torque wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-11050-Ratcheting-Mechanism-Counterclockwise/dp/B079YSQPF5

I use a dial torque wrench to set my Fat Wrench more accurately than one can with its scale and it works ok.

I like the Roto-torq better because they are not unnecessarily large for the job they are doing.

Actually, if you’re not going to use Lok-Tite, the screws will most likely hold better if lightly oiled. The reason is that you get true torque with lubed threads. If not lubed, the thread contact may have too much resistance and the screws will not be pulled to make them stretch, which is what is supposed to hold them in place.

It would be best to run the screws into the threads first before mounting the rings or bases to make sure the threads are clear and clean

It would be best to run the screws into the threads first before mounting the rings or bases to make sure the threads are clear and clean

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Good points.

For mounts into blind holes I always count the number of turns with the screw alone then with the mount to ensure the screw is not bottomed out. It’s not as uncommon as one might think, to have to shorten the threads to prevent this.

The only rifle I've ever had scope bases loosen on is a light, hard kicking 30-06. This was years before thread locker ever came on the market. I finally used fingernail polish on the screws and that was that it for loose screws. I still have the rifle, all the screws are still tight, and It's still holding zero. All subsequents rifle with some recoil have received the fingernail polish treatment. Blue Loctite is made for 1/4" and larger bolts, not little screws. If you JUST have to use thread locker use the purple. It will be easier to remove the screws if you decide to and even easier with fingernail polish..

Purple loctite and a torque wrench. Walkalong showed the types above; Breakaway torque of purple (222) is 53 lb/in, blue (242) is 113 lb/in. Both are far higher than you will be torquing ring screws.

I have used both blue and purple. (Blue when I didn't have purple) Purple has always worked for me so now I use it.

I have the Wheeler; nondigital. Seems to do the job.

Blue Loctite on the bases. I wouldn't see the need to put any thread locker on the ring screws unless it was a more powerful rifle or something that was expected to be roughed up. I also use the Wheeler non digital torque wrench with no issues. Except I wish it came with more bits.

I just mounted a new Leupold 3i-LRP on a set of Mark 4 rings and the ring screws came with thread locker pre-applied to the screws.

For torque I have been using a set of Fix It Stick and love them for working on guns, especially mounting scopes.

I had a savage 17hmr I bought used, installed a scope and couldn't get it to zero. Found the previous owner had used so much blue Loctite on the scope base screws that when it cured it pushed the base up and canted it. Once I had that scraped off and reinstalled the base the scope zeroed easily.

I only use purple or green Loctite on my firearms, the blue and red stuff is for machinery.

I've also got a Wheeler, works pretty well.

When it comes to Loctite or not, generally I follow the manufactures recommendation. Some don't recommend anything, so I simply torque to specs. On the ones with no guidance, I Loctite base screws, but not rings and still torque both.

I exclusively use Warne Vertical rings and the website states to use blue Loctite on the BASES and nothing on the RINGS and it is so you do not over tighten the rings.

I own both Wheeler digital and standard torque wrenches, didn't like them and bought this Vortex one which I like a lot better.

However, I also bought this Warne specific wrench and actually use that almost entirely now. It is set for 25lbs only which all Warne bases and rings are supposed to be I believe.