Rust 911

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Daniel Keefe

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Ok so I have been posting about my 1896 iver johnson revolver.

Shooting perfectly. Put about 15 rounds of black powder 32 short thru her so far.

Clean her every time I shoot her.

Hot hot water and soap. Q tips and drying with hair dryer. Gun oil after cleaning.

The cylinder I got off ebay has since become much cleaner than when I received it. I cant tell if I uncovered the rust under grime or if the rust is new from water cleaning. How can I remove it and prevent more.

Its basically nothing on the scale of things but I want this gun staying mint
What can I do. Thanks all
 

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Also I saw the same type of rust in one tiny spec in one spot under the barrel. It may have been a spot that I wasn't able to dry perfectly. It rubs off for the most part it must be new. What do I do to prevent this again
 
I think it to be "flash rust" forming as the hot water dries off of degreased steel.
As you say, steel wool removes it and a lot of grime besides.
My solution would be to not wash my gun in hot water like a cook pot.
I started out cleaning my first BPCR, a Winchester Single Shot "High Wall" .38-55, with diluted Windex with Vinegar as Mike Venturino recommended. When that ran out and I could not find more Windex without ammonia, I just diluted some M-Pro 7 solvent and cleaned up just fine. I oil with smelly Ballistol. There are many formulae for BP cleaners; Driftwood Johnson probably has a good one.
 
I tried the hot water and soap for cleaning BP and could never keep the gun from rusting during the drying process.
 
Ok fellas I will keep an eye out for some cleaning solutions.

I would take a suggestion like windex and vinegar or stuff called m pro 7 but knowing me I would end up buying the slightly wrong one and destroying it. So maybe I'll look into somthing like the driftwood johnson somthing made to clean BP.

As for silicon spray for protection any reccomnedatons? And if I do use that will I have to change the way I use any future solvents I may buy to clean it again?

Sorry I'm new to old guns and do not want to ruin it. And I wanna make sure I can really care for it before I buy more. Although I am already looking
 
I don't do what you are doing, but - my limited experience with metal says hot blow drying wet heated steel is just going to flash rust. I can't comment on cleaning solutions, but my last step I would think would be to rinse with cold water to reduce the temp of the metal as much as possible, then I'd consider drying it with a cloth shop towel or 2, and then liberally applying Ballistall because it is water based. Water will evaporate and leave the oil film. Then a day or so later - if I wasn't going to shoot it - I'd wipe it down again quick and hit it with Hoppe's or something that is just a gun oil.

Nice revolver there. I've though about trying to pick up an old BP shooter for fun, but haven't taken the leap. Now that I think of it I could probably just load .38 Special with black powder, but I've just got too many gun related things to figure out going on right now to think about it seriously.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'm going to look into a solvent and protective coating. I would hate to rust this thing up at all. She really is pretty.
 
I’ll also throw my hat in the Ballistol ring. The blackpowder section on this site swear by it and after using it I too have become a convert.
 
...liberally applying Ballistall because it is water based
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Ballistol is based on mineral oil, however it is true that it can form an emulsion with water and is, therefore, often recommended as a blackpowder cleaning agent when mixed with water. Recipes vary from a 50/50 mix to 1 part Ballistol to 4 parts water.
 
Daniel Keefe said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'm going to look into a solvent and protective coating. I would hate to rust this thing up at all. She really is pretty.
Click to expand...
I use Hoppes Foaming bore solvent for cleaning barrels and chambers (but not on nickel plate), Hoppes Synthetic gun oil for rotating and tight tolerance moving parts, Mobil 1 Red Synthetic Bearing grease for reciprocating or loose moving parts, Flitz or Mothers Chrome polishing for very light "flash" rust, oiled 0000 steel wool for light rust freckles, and MSI silicone spray for finish protection.

Of course, I work in a car repair facility, so I gets lots of these at work. Many similiar products are available commercially.

I like silicone as opposed to CLP or Remoil because it never really drys or evaporates until you wipe it off before a shooting session. After cleaning, I reapply. It doesn't seem so hurt sealed woods and is actually beneficial to plastic parts as well. It does not have great lubricating properties, however.

As it does stay gooey, I would not use it for a carry piece or nightstand gun. Honestly, its best to keep these as clean and dry as possible and rely on the guns own finish to protect it, accepting that carry guns will get some rust occasionally. Follow the manufacturers recommendation for lubrication on a newish gun, but less lube is usually better than too much on a carry peice.

As far as the grease vs oil debate, I say shake it. If it rattles- grease. If not- oil.

Welcome to the wonderful world of gun cleaing and maintenance, lol.
 
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