Lets get a pic thread rolling

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Waveski

Never met a Model 36 that I didn't like! And yours is a pinned barrel, flat latch model...nice!

And if that's a Beretta Model 418, and I think that likely, you can pretend to be a certain British secret agent, better known as 007, or something like that!
 
IMG_1782.jpg I started my "gun life" pretty late , about 13-14 years ago. Back when I was just getting started a relative learned of my budding interest and told me of a rifle in his basement that I could have. Yes , have. I had no idea what it was , but given the fact I owned zero firearms at the time - and the price - I jumped in my truck right away and quickly came home with this. It was lightly rust spotted , with green in the recesses. The first thing I did was get on the computer - I didn't even know what I had ... but in the back of my mind I was thinking "The Rifleman" from my youth. I was barking up the right tree , more or less.

I did my homework and learned that this Marlin 336-A in 30/30 was built in 1948 - a very early one. It cleaned up pretty well ; the action is velvet.

I now have a large safe containing a lot of nice , desirable firearms. My Marlin lever is one of the very last I would part with.
 
tark



Now that's an amazing piece of history you've got there!
Sure is. Wish it were mine but it belongs to the Arsenal Museum, or, more correctly, the Department of Defense. Here are a couple more pics. Unfortunately, the gun is not original That stock came off a later gun and somewhere along the line somebody felt it necessary to shine it up. That glossy finish is all wrong. The original 80 Model shop guns had milled trigger guards but did not have the ring at the rear of the guard. This was added for the production guns and a relief cut had to be added in the stock so the ring would clear. This stock has the cut. The op-rod is a dash one from a later gun. the front sight is from a production, type one gas trap gun. It has the protective wings but they are straight up. The Army soon realized THAT was a mistake. The soldiers would mistake one protective wing or the other for the actual front sight blade. Starting with the second pattern gas trap guns, they bent the wings outwards. Problem solved.

In his masterpiece, "The Gas Trap Garand." Billy Pyle mentions that none of the 80 Model Shop guns are in their original configuration. Only a handful are accounted for at all. The Springfield Armory National Historic sight has #1 as well as #81, which was the first production gun.
 

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Historical Garand in spite of the fact it isn't original, Tark.

In 1961, I ordered a "hand picked" Garand, mail order from Klein's, (for $98) in hopes of getting a rifle I could accurize and continue shooting competition as a civilian after separation. The barrel had pretty light pitting stem to stern, probably from corrosive ammo; had the early combat sights (w/lock) and was complete with the lend lease stamp on barrel/British proof marks. It was in a horrible stock that looked to have been sanded with an 8" auto body shop sander which left a 1/4" gap between the heel of the receiver and the stock. To say I was disappointed would be an understatement.

As Slamfire recently stated, typically, as shooters are wont to do, I have to admit to the mistake of "Bubba-izing" that rifle. Put a new glass bedded stock on it, and surprisingly it shot much better than it should have, so I proceeded to fully accurize it, putting NM sights on it, changed out milled trigger guard for tighter fit of stamped guard, but stopped short of removing the barrel with the lend-lease markings which reads .30 2.494" 18 tons per square ".
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It still has the early op-rod without the cut, shoots decent, considering, but is a copper magnet due to the shallow pitting; I have long since retired it as a shooter. Original sights may still be in a drawer somewhere, but not sure.
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Are there any British lend lease Garands @ the museum, Tark?

Regards,
hps
 
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hps

Nice work on the M1! And I have to say that's the first nickel or chrome plated H&R Sportsman I have ever seen! Do you know if that's a factory finish or something that was done aftermarket?
 
Waveski

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As far as I know there's nothing wrong with free! Cleaned up really nice too; good job on that!

I had a friend of my Dad's give me a Springfield U.S. Model 1896 Krag-Jorgensen rifle. It was a parade rifle that had been bright chrome plated and had a thick coat of spar varnish applied to the wood. Didn't do much for the looks of the rifle but sure did a great job of preserving the metal and wood underneath! I managed to strip off almost all of the chrome plating (thanks to soaking it in Hoppe's No. 9 copper solvent), and lightly sanded down the stock until the varnish was all removed. Had the metal parts blued (left the bolt in the white which I believe is how the original rifle was made), and restained the stock. Still need to get a period sling for it but overall I think it turned out okay!
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hps

Nice work on the M1! And I have to say that's the first nickel or chrome plated H&R Sportsman I have ever seen! Do you know if that's a factory finish or something that was done aftermarket?

Thanks, bannockburn. As to the finish on the H&R; it was my FIL's pistol. Pretty sure he did not have it plated, but other than that, IDNK it's history.

You did a beautiful job on that Krag. Would never have thought of using copper solvent to remove plating, but the proof is in the pudding. Very nice!

Regards,
hps
 
Gunny

J'aime le MAS Mle. 35A!

Looks to be in great shape and for icing on the cake, you've got some rare factory ammo to go along with it!

C'est fantastique!
 
hps

Would never have thought of using copper solvent to remove plating, but the proof is in the pudding.

I remembered an article in Guns and Ammo magazine where a reader wrote in with a question about why when he stored away two guns (one blued the other chrome plated), after cleaning them with Hoppe's No.9, that the blued gun was fine but plating on the chromed gun had come off on the side that had been laying down.

The answer was that most nickel and chrome plating will not adhere to a bare metal surface. What they require is a sub-layer of copper plating to be applied to the metal so the nickel or chrome plating can bond to it. Since Hoppe's No. 9 is a copper solvent it passed through the top plating and went to work on the copper plating underneath. The net result being the chrome plating peeled off along with the copper plating.

In the case of the man who wrote into the magazine he had placed both guns in a felt lined drawer in a gun cabinet he had. The Hoppe's No.9 had drained out of the guns and soaked into the felt lining. When he put the chrome plated gun on the felt it went to work on removing the copper plating.

What I did with my Krag was I got a long deep tray like you use for soaking wall paper and put the disassembled gun into it and added Hoppe's did it was totally submerged. Did the same with all of the other parts as well in another tray. Worked on almost all of the receiver except for one small area were the plating was really heavy around where the barrel and receiver were. I had the place that was doing the work get that off before they did the bluing. The rest of the parts came out clean and I only needed a little bit of steel wool to polish them up as well. All in all it turned out rather well and I'm very pleased with the finished rifle!
 
Rockrvr1

You've got three great American classics there with your M1, M1903 A3, and Kimber 1911!

Okay the Chinese AK47 Type 56 and the SIG P229 (with what looks like a couple of extra barrels), are nice too!
 
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