reloading blocks

I like to think of myself as a woodworker with lots of tools too. Maybe a "woodworker lite". Last wood blocks I made were for a junior smallbore program and for my SB competition blocks; holes for record shots separate from sighter shots.

Just me, but after completing the round, I drop in the lidded box; saves double handling.

In 1952 or 53, I was still in high school and working a part time job; my gunsmith friend/mentor "sold" me a 98 Mauser in which he had installed a surplus Browning water cooled MG barrel chambered for the experimental T65 cartridge and bedded in a Bishop rough stock blank. He then showed me how to complete the project. The T65 was later designated 7.62 x 51 or 7.62 NATO. There was little to no loading data on the brand new cartridge at the time.)


This thread caused me to remember a loading block/ammo box I made and used in load development in his shop. I had not handled it in many years. Best I can recall the blocks were made, also under his watchful eye, from 2X4 oak from his scrap pile (thus the odd number of holes) and 1/8" walnut panel top/bottom. The latches on each end serves to convert to transport loads to range for testing.
To my surprise, it was filled with 46 rounds of LC Match ammo.

Thanks for the reminder, guys. Brought back some really fond memories; I can almost smell the always present cigar smoke on cool winter evenings spent working on pet projects w/friends. I miss those nights, and my friend, even more. RIP Werth.

Regards,
hps

1976B.L.Johns. said:

Some other blocks made by Dad decades ago. Double thick plywood.

Still in use today.

View attachment 940343

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Only issue I see with those is trying to use your typical powder drop - those are too wide to be useful in that regard.

George P said:

Only issue I see with those is trying to use your typical powder drop - those are too wide to be useful in that regard.

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Yup!

But works for me as I typically weigh all charges, kinda OCD(?).

I've laid out one on some hardwood and was thinking 2 size holes, one the case size and the other the neck size so when I have primed cases inserted primer up they would be stable.

Bill M. said:

I am a woodworker and have a lot of tools. But repetitive drilling of a bunch of holes in a pattern is not as much fun as it used to be.

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Whaaa?! Ten minutes too much? Even free hand for a completely utilitarian block...Seriously, it’s not like they wear out.

However, I don’t have any other than the red Hornady one because I batch load by the hundreds. Not needing a block at all. So, I don’t have one, either.
But if you are a wood worker you already have a pice of wood hanging around that would work. Save yourself a buck and some shipping and make one.
I’m going to see if I can sell one at Artworks.

rdnktrkr said:

I've laid out one on some hardwood and was thinking 2 size holes, one the case size and the other the neck size so when I have primed cases inserted primer up they would be stable.

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Put the neck sized hole in the center of the hole for the base of the cartridge. Tightish so it stands well.

Demi-human said:

Put the neck sized hole in the center of the hole for the base of the cartridge.

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Drill big hole first!

Another thought I had was instead of 50 or 100 to make it 55 or 110 so as you were doing a process to the brass you could put it into the next row

rdnktrkr said:

Another thought I had was instead of 50 or 100 to make it 55 or 110 so as you were doing a process to the brass you could put it into the next row

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My thought also. (Post # 11)

I "might" have drank one (or two) since then and forgot

Though not homemade, I have these....

https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...clair-heavy-duty-loading-block-prod33224.aspx

This is the kind of drill bit that makes relatively flat bottom holes https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHVTNKA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

thats what I use for .357

Laphroaig said:

...I made my own pistol block with a hand drill and a 9/16 turbo bit. Drilled 50 holes clean thru a 3/4" piece of plywood, then glued on another piece for the bottom. Flat bottom holes! Its not pretty but totally functional. Now that I have a drill press I might do the same thing but make it neater. It wouldn't be that hard to make one for rifle using two 3/4" boards or plywood with another glued on for the bottom. I'm convinced that 9/16" is a good hole size for all of the common cartridges.

Sorry, too late for pictures.

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I did something similar for shotshells.

George P said:

Only issue I see with those is trying to use your typical powder drop - those are too wide to be useful in that regard.

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Yah, you are right there. However.... the asstoot wood worker should be able to measure his clear space under the powder drop and plan accordingly. One thing I have not seen, in all these fine, fine examples of "old school still works best", is a block with offset rows. That would save considerable space under the powder drop, and allow maintaining a decent wall thickness for each hole. And... the best part, for me at least, is it will press a few more brain cells into figuring out how to make it look nice and neat, and pretty, and purrfect, because that layout is a bit more complex.

Forgot to say too, maybe its been mentioned, but SINCLAIR has wood loading blocks made of "hardwood", head size specific, and reasonably priced.

Shot the .243 several times last trip to the range, and found several once fired .243 hulls on the cement slab. I got all excited and started a batch of 50 rounds yesterday. Even got out the old Pacific Multi Power C press and will use it on the bottleneck cartridges. Gonna take my time and do it right.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

I wish I had pictures to show but I made reloading blocks out of plywood 1/2” to 1” thick by cutting to size. Laying out my holes and then drilling them with a cordless drill all the way through. Then I cut 1/4 fine finish plywood to the size of the blocks and tacked them to the bottom of the blocks with brads. I finished them off with spray on wood sealer.

My son-in-law has them now.

Now I just use MTM Case Guard plastic trays.

File photo from MTM.
http://www.mtmcase-gard.com/products/reloading/reloading.html

FWIW, I just followed my own advice. Got a Sinclair hardwood block machined for 45 Colt. Maybe just a bit of Western romanticism, but it will go well with the New Vaquero and Winchester 92. Got m'self all set up for campfire loadin' if the need be. Can't imagine a better bug out duo than those, but I digress.

I kinda like walnut and oak.

I make all of mine from wood. I have used pine, oak and cedar. I normally use a Forstner drill bit to get a flat bottom, but have also drilled through and glued a thin (1/8th to 1/4 thick) bottom on. I do use a drill press to get straight holes. I use a spacing which gives a clearance from edge of hole to edge of adjacent hole of 5/16 inch. This provides plenty of space to easily pluck a case out from the middle of the block and also to place a funnel on the case for powder charging. I have made the spacing in both a square and triangular pattern. The triangular pattern results in a slightly smaller block size for a given number of holes. My block thickness varies depending on the length of the cases expected to be used in them. I like the hole depth to be approx. 33-50% of the case length from rim to shoulder for bottleneck cases and rim to case neck for straight cases.

1976B.L.Johns. said:

Yup!

But works for me as I typically weigh all charges, kinda OCD(?).

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X2, I am also sum what OCD, or so I have been told.

Dead Eye Duck said:

What size bits for what calibers?.

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I have two Forstner bit sets one is 3/16"- 15/16" and the other is 1/4"- 1 1/8" these have worked well for me to make loading blocks.
I made one block for 22 Hornet for 50 cases as my RCBS plastic blocks were awkward for this cartridge. I spaced the holes at 7/8" c to c which works well. I did 5 rows x 10
I made another for 30-30 Win and .308 Win. for 20 rnds I spaced the holes 1.25" c to c I did a 4x5 hole block.
For longer cases I would use 1"-1.5"(net) thick stock, for most pistol cartridges 3/4"-1"(net) works well.
If you need to source some nice hardwood I would visit your local cabinet shops for their scrap wood.
A drill press with a depth stop will be your friend.

If any of you guys reload 50 BMG, buy some of the Plano 12 Ga. 100 shell holders. Remove one of the trays and use that to hold your empty cases while you reload them.

Leave the other tray in the Plano case and you now have a 50 round ammo box. Buy about 5-6 of these and you'll be set for reloading and for storing your ammo.

Whatever blocks y'all use, if you have two blocks that match you can easily flip the case/cartridge by placing the empty block over the filled block. And I recently made some wood blocks with staggered rows.

I did for 45/70 and 7.62x54R. 20 versus 50, but it works. Used an old 2x4.