Hello. New guy with a few long questions..

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MFInc

MFInc

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Hello everyone. I am a new guy here and to the reloading hobby. Looking to further my knowledge. I have some questions I'm trying to see if I'm doing it right from what I have read so far. Not trying to cut any corners but I do have a budget. I'll try to keep it simple too. I'm looking to reload 9mm Luger for an AR type of build, 40 S+W and .300AAC.Over the past few months I have been accumulating things needed and doing research. Still in the process of getting equipment, and components. I think I am almost there. I'm waiting on some reloading books. I have the Lyman, and Western Powders load books. But I have questions. lol..

I got a Lyman Crusher 2 from Sportsman's on closeout for 70 bucks-It's seems fairly solid but I don't really like the play in the lever as it seems to have a lot. Also not sure if I like the over cam it's called? Esp after using the Lee APP. Which has worked well for de priming quickly. vs the Crusher. Tried swaging but is it necessary? Also getting the bulge buster kit for my glock shells that don't fit in the barrel as I don't have a case cage yet. I was able to get a new auto primer kit for the lyman for 15 bucks too, I have the RCBS carbide die sets for 9mm luger and 40, taper crimp, and universal de-cappers. Do I need the Lee factory crimp die?
Should I get another press?

I will be getting a hand primer, What would you recommend?

What is a good but not overly expensive powder measure and scale to get for rifle and pistol powder? Should I bother getting a trickler? Or would I be good with the measures by lee and a scale?

I have lee primer pocket cleaner. I'm assuming I still need the flash hole cleaner and appropriate sized neck brushes as well?

I have good digi calipers, tumbler.

I've processed about 2k or more cases so far. about, Mostly 9mm and 40, with about 200 aac cases. 1k are 223 shells I'll be trimming to 300 once I go through all head stamps(about 3k cases). But that's down the road I'm just trying to get what I need to start reloading what I have. I just need to get a few more items so I can. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
 
Get the RCBS Hand Primer, I had the old version, had to use shell holders. The newer version doesn’t use shell holders, works great.

As for reloading, go to midwayusa.com search for reloading (caliber). A 5x8 booklet, comb bound for each caliber. A good add on to reloading books.

if you are shooting for accuracy, get a trickle, or better yet, a TargetMaster. I DEARLY Love mine, every bit as good as the RCBS Autoloader, nowhere near as expensive. Good Luck..

Dan

931578CA-286A-4FF6-B131-4144423EFFB7.jpeg
 
No problem with the cam over press. It will ensure you that your doing the same amount of work each time.

Powder dispenser are a hole new animal. I have the Hornady and RCBS (had, gave to a friend I was setting up to hand load) as long as you have both rotors bot work equally well. I ended up going with one of the electronic dispenser CM1500 5 yrs ago and it's been great. For rifle rounds I use it, but for pistol I use the Hornady rotary dispenser. Must faster for handgun ammo and accurate enough provide you use a powder it likes, aka ball.
 
Welcome to THR and your new addiction.
MFInc said:
Tried swaging but is it necessary?
Click to expand...
If the primers are crimped, you can swage or ream the primer pocket. On my LNL progressive, I load range brass and occasionally get a 9mm that’s crimped, but the press is able to prime without swaging first. It will depend if your primers are crimped and whatever priming system you get.

MFInc said:
Also getting the bulge buster kit for my glock shells that don't fit in the barrel as I don't have a case cage yet.
Click to expand...
Two things - shells usually refer to loaded rounds - is that what you mean, or is it just the case? If the latter, then has it been full length resized? Not all .40s suffer from the Glock bulge.

MFInc said:
I have the RCBS carbide die sets for 9mm luger and 40, taper crimp, and universal de-cappers.
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Good deal, I use RCBS as well. I only use the FL sizer die to deprime, using a universal de-capper is, to me, a wasted step. I do wet tumble and then dry all my brass first.

MFInc said:
Do I need the Lee factory crimp die?
Click to expand...
You’ll get a yes/no answer on this one. A sizer die that’s doing it’s job, creating enough neck tension, and very light taper crimp to remove the bell is all you need. If you’re loading lead or even plated, you may swage the bullet down a bit using the FCD. If you don’t have one yet, wait till you try what you have.

MFInc said:
I will be getting a hand primer, What would you recommend?
Click to expand...
I use the Lee bench mount primer for rifle if I’m not loading on the progressive.

MFInc said:
I have lee primer pocket cleaner. I'm assuming I still need the flash hole cleaner and appropriate sized neck brushes as well?
Click to expand...
For pistol, I don’t worry about primer pockets or flash holes. I shoot competition and have reloaded quite a few rounds without any issues. For rifle that will be loaded on the single stage press, I deprime first before the wet tumble and the pockets are cleaned. You don’t need a flash hole cleaner, just inspect them. I don’t use neck brushes, that’s a bit over the top for me.

Regarding the powder measure, I’d recommend the Hornady as it has two rotors, one for pistol one for rifle and works very well for both including ball and stick powders. For pistol calibers once you have the measure set, you will only have to verify throws every 25 or so or whatever QC you desire. For rifle, depending on the powder and the precision you want, you may need to weigh every load and if so a trickler is the way to go.

You will need a scale, preferably a beam type balance scale and a set of check weights. I use an electronic scale and check it’s readings against the beam balance occasionally.
Keep it as simple as you can to start. Good luck.
 
I'm a big fan of hand priming, particularly rifle cartridges. The other benefit is the sometimes tedious systems some presses use... my RCBS RS3 on-press primer had you handling each primer one at a time, for example. Hands down, the easiest and most flexible hand primer is the RCBS Universal hand primer... it does not require cartridge-specific shell plates like many others, or proprietary holders like the Lee. It takes about 3 minutes to swap between small and large primers, or just buy two and have one ready to go for whatever you are doing.
 
Welcome Aboard and welcome to the hobby.

You have chosen a good solid press and I have had good service from my RCBS dies and I am really happy with them. I've never owned a Lee factory crimp die or seen the need.

The RCBS hand primer seems to work ok. Frankfort Arsenal also makes one that gets good reviews. I use one from Sinclair that I really like but its more expensive.

You can spend as much or as little as you want on powder handling and weighing equipment. I have been happy with my RCBS powder measure although nowadays I use a Chargemaster for extruded powder. Every reloading equipment manufacturer makes a decent scale. Once again, I like RCBS. If you are going to weigh your charges defiantly get a trickler. The electric ones are nice.

All of the cartridges that you named can have crimped primers so you will need a tool to deal with them. Your choice of methods are to either ream or swage. Both methods have their followers and no one method works 100% everytime. Top of the line is the Dillon Super Swage at around $120 and at the lower end you can use you deburring tool. Most companies make a reamer that removes the crimp and I think the Wilson is made from better steel than the others.

When making 300AAC from 223 cases there are a few headstamps that work better than others. You will need a way to cut them off. Anything from a mini-chopsaw with a homemade jig to a file type trim die will work. You could trim them with a case trimmer but thats a LOT of trimming!

Case prep is something thats often argued over and is often hated by many. One of the motorized case prep stations would be nice. Personally I use a cordless drill and a handful of tools from Sinclair. Many reloaders don't do anything to primer pockets but I uniform everything that I load for rifle and deburr the flash hole. You probably can't see any improvement in my groups but its something that I do. Uniforming the primer pockets on my brass gives me a lot fewer issues with seating primers.

I think I covered most of your questions. I hope! My last suggestion is to get a loose leaf note book or a 3 ring binder, print off a spreadsheet and keep good records. I copied a commercial one, I think it was from MTM, years before everyone had computers.
 
I have a powder trickler.
I do not use it anymore.

I just use a scooper. Dump a scoop full of powder in the pan on the scale and trickle up the the charge by tapping the scoop lightly to sprinkle a few granules at a time.

I also use a LEE Perfect Powder Measure for pistol. Pretty cheap and made of plastic. Seems to work OK. Weigh each charge and just dump the non-conforming charges back into the hopper. No trickling when using the powder measure.
 
MFInc said:
I will be getting a hand primer, What would you recommend?
Click to expand...

Frankford Arsenal Platinum. Probably every shell holder you will ever need that fit presses too, RCBS in my case.

My first hand primer was a Hornady and it wore out at the pivot points. After about 15,000 rounds, small pistol primers were no longer seating fully resulting in miss fires. The beauty of the Frankford is that there is an adjustment to allow compensation for wear out.

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MFInc said:
Do I need the Lee factory crimp die?
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Some (most?) guys here swear by these Lee Crimp dies. I do not think that they will tell you that "You need one." I think that Lee's name for them is brilliant, "Factory" crimp die, just like their "perfect" powder measure. Terrific marketing propaganda.

I, for my 2 cents. will never buy or use one. My processes are done slowly, methodically, and by the book.
 
I'll be ordering equipment this week. Just have to decide. I do have a binder that I have been logging case data in, and have a few more for load data. In regards to the 223 cases being cut to 300AAC-That's a luxury for me at this point but not a priority atm. I want to be comfortable reloading before I get into that as I have a lot of cases with diff head stamps. I've been going through them noting and separating by head stamp. Most of it is LC(non conforming cases will be reloaded in 5.56 btw)I've seen the videos on the process. I'm going to try to make a jig to cut multiple cases with. Also considering a little crow trimmer. I may have enough 300 brass already to where I where I don't need too even bother, but that is down the road atm. I'll have some ?'s on that for sure.

What or Do you store your prepped brass in if not being used for awhile? I have mine in some bins with a few silica gel packs. It's pretty dry where I live so moist air isn't really a concern.


As far a swaging goes. I swaged a few 300AAC with the APP, then the prime on the Lyman. I removed the 4 stab crimp but the primer fell out, would just drop it. Same with ring crimp. Like if I remove the crimp entirely, the hole was too big. I tried one not swaging and it went it pretty easy. I was using the small hole swage too, and dead primers. I'm not sure if I'd have to swage every case that's crimped or not as I have read that you do. I'm going to play with the swagger today and see if I do better. Any suggs that may help?

Most all of my 9mm cases(mostly blazer) were new and shot from the same gun tec barrel with some misc range brass. I've been doing the barrel test(as I had been unable to find a case gauge) and the ones that don't fit I've run through the RCBS 9mm luger die and they fit after. I should have probably used this die 1st over the universal one as I was thinking I had case bulge and would need to get the BB thing and a 9mm makarov crimp die. I guess I am over thinking but I want to assume the barrel test is accurate? . Some cases do appear to have it slightly though. I've mic'd some of them before they are all under the length of .754 as listed in my Lyman load book. Around .742-.746. Diameter approx .386-.389 at base and .370-.377 at nose. I know the OAL is what is very important though.
Should I be concerned with the brass being short and skinny? Should I wait until I find a case gauge and check them again before attempting to load? I pretty much know the answer but I ask so I don't get stupid assuming.

Pretty similar issues with the 40 brass. It's a mix of different brass I've shot out of a Glock though. I've done the barrel test and tumbled what fit, but I've shot about 20k rounds through it so maybe it has some wear? I def need the Bulge buster as the RCBS sizing die doesn't seem to be removing the bulge on most but does on some... The kit is relatively inexpensive so no biggie there. I cannot find my notes on those atm. Some of the cases are nickel. Will these be ok to use again?

Components I have so far.
Remington 1 1/2 small pistol primers-For the 9mm only as per their data. Wish I'd known that when I got them. But not complaining now.
Berry 180gr FP bullets-for the 40

I'd like to run just one type of pistol powder in both pistols if possible, but Is this feasible with those Remy primers?

Thanks for the awesome feedback. Very useful and appreciated. I am trying to keep it simple for sure. Had I not seen that press at half price and I got tired of the panic ammo shortages I probably wouldn't have even gotten into reloading, But I'm glad I did now, just wish I had SOONER!. You know what they say about hindsight? lol
 
Welcome to THR.
This is definately the place for help. Keep in mind to verify things we tell you as far as loads in the various reloading books you have. I would pick one cartridge and reload for it until you get comfortable with it. Then branch out. It is important to understand the steps and get a system that works for you safely before jumping around with other calibers. Keep notes and do not be afraid to ask about something. We ALL had to learn at some point and most on here want to see you become good at it. I'll not bother reanswer what has been said above but will say that all the brands of dies are in my reloading room and all make good ammo. Lee costs less and some will dis this but they are a good value for the price. Keep us informed of your progress.
 
You don't need a flash hole cleaner.
You do need a case length trimmer.
Choices are varied. I use the Lee one.
You need a good scales. A trickler isn't necessary if you can work a dipper/scoop.
I use a Hornady volumetric measure that works fairly well.
Remember you can keep saying little trinkets as you go along.
Just be sure to trim your bottle necked brass.
 
"My processes are done slowly, methodically, and by the book" Which book? The PPM is recommended in at least one of them ;) and a consistent, method works very will with it.
All powder measures are volumetric, whether dippers or powder drop or disc. We simply calibrate the volume to meet the weight. Some drop scales even include a fancy (expensive) automatic trickler and scale all combined.
IMO consistency in method is far more important than how much ya spend on the measure.
 
I store my prepped brass that I intend to use soonest in plastic ammo boxes. Mostly 50 or 100 round MTM boxes. Anything beyond my immediate needs is stored in plastic coffee cans with a note included saying what has been done to them.

Anyway I look at them, crimped primers are a PITA! I've not found any single tool that works 100% on every type of crimp. Doing a few, or a few thousand, is about the only way to learn. Expect to mess up a few. It happens!

I loaded for years before I ever had a case gauge. The chambers of my guns told me everything that I wanted to know. A case gauge is more convenient.

Once again I hope I covered most of your questions.
 
Thanks again. I plan on doing one caliber first to get the process down. Which one depends on which components I can get first. I need to shoot some HP's out of the 9 to see if there are any feed issues with glock mag and no ramp or it's rounders for that caliber. I can run any bullet in the glock though.
Methodical is definitely going to be my mantra, as I see a critical need for it.

On the swaging I guess it's good I have so many extra shells to practice on lol.
I do have 2 of the lee case length trimmers for the pistol brass, but all my brass is short for now. I haven't read any bad things about any of the die manufacturers as they seem to cover all price ranges too. I also will probably get a $$ seater die with a mic for the 300 rounds though as higher accuracy is more important with that too me..
Cool on the case gauge. Makes sense.

Really appreciate the input and the knowledge I've gained so far. Very helpful.

I may try priming some of the 9mm brass that's tumbled with the 1 1/2 primers I have on the Lyman and see how it goes. Will practice with some old ones first to get the feel.

How long is too long to leave them in with no powder or bullet?.
 
You can trim 9mm and .40 pistol brass, but most don’t, me included. The only pistol brass I trim is when I’m roll crimping so that’s .357, .44 and .460. You can keep an eye on the length but you may be surprised in the autos it shrinks these days. Rifle is almost always trimmed.
Those mic seater dies look impressive but it’s only one factor in accuracy, and I find the right seater stem to fit the bullet ogive results in excellent COL with my standard RCBS seater die.
Your primed cases will last longer than you. Good luck.
 
Primers can sit for decades on the shelf, or installed in brass. Any reasonable care in storage will be fine. Zip Lock bag, plastic container with a lid, etc.
 
Thank you. Very good to know. That will give me something to do while I wait.
Just returned from Sportsman Warehouse where I was able to grab a set of powder scoops and a loading tray. They only had the Frankfurt Arsenal Powder measure. and not too much other equipment that I need. I was surprised they had about 5k rounds in stock of Ammo Inc 115grJHP 9mm 0$18.99 a box so I got a couple to test feed in my AR today. Read some don't like HP or flat nose Bullets. We shall see. Thanks again for the input. Keep you posted.
 
gifbohane said:
$19 a box (of 50?) is a good price..What brand did you score?
Click to expand...
They were only 20 round Boxes. Which is pretty high for 9mm. Brand was Ammo Inc. After reading the muzzle energy was 293ftlbs at 50 yards I think I want something heavier anyways.

Kind of OT but I ran into feed problems with them in a 32 round glock mag today on my ar9. I had mixed round nose shells in it. Didn't have a problem shooting smaller amounts thought it. I think it was the pressure pushing up from being fully loaded and no ramp. But when I racked it it didn't chamber, Pushed the bullet all the way into the case just about. then got hung up in the mag release when I tried to eject it. That has never happened before with this pistol. But I needed to know so I didnt waste money buying a lot of flat nosed or hp bullets.
 
[QUOTE=" They were only 20 round Boxes. Brand was Ammo Inc. [/QUOTE]

Wow, that is awful, $ 1 a piece for crap. But that is where we are today.
 
gifbohane said:
[QUOTE=" They were only 20 round Boxes. Brand was Ammo Inc.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is awful, $ 1 a piece for crap. But that is where we are today.[/QUOTE]

Right? That's why I will be making me own soon. I went back today and they had more reasonably priced 124 grRN 9mm ammo. $15.99-18.99 for 50 rounds Blazer and Winchester, so I got another 100.Even picked up 50rnds of 40S+W for under 20 bucks.
 
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