Boyds Pro Varmint or AT One?

Pro Varmint or AT One Stock

  • Pro Varm

    Votes: 9 90.0%

  • AT One

    Votes: 1 10.0%
  • Total voters
    10
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Not open for further replies.
A

Axis II

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Joined
Jul 2, 2015
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After some thought and seeing some of the 22lr bench rest shoots happen at my club yesterday I think I am going to turn my Mark II FV into a bench and prone gun. What's everyones thoughts on the AT One stock from Boyds? It almost looks like the grip has very sharp angles to it. The AT One seems to be better for a multi fit system. I absolutly hate the factory stock with my homemade kydex cheek riser. Its got way too much drop.

So, Pro Varmint or AT One?
 
Varminterror said:
ProVarmint for me.

View attachment 1009981
Click to expand...
How's the PV fit your wife bench shooting? I found out late last night after wondering about the Hunter stock that my hunting buddy is retiring his squirrel dog and I maybe go a few times a year spot and stalk. I saw some guys shooting 10x benchrest shoots at my club and it looked like a lot of fun. I have a Mark II standard barrel and wood prairie hunter type stock but the trigger and scope sucks. I will have a buddy stone the trigger and I'll buy another scope and it will be my hunting gun and the FV will be my bench gun.
 
@Axis II - her scopes are typically mounted farther back than mine (which is odd, since her neck is longer), and she uses a lower cheek riser than mine (I have higher cheekbones), but she fits typical factory stock LOP’s without issue. She has a dozen rifles, spread between AR’s, Savage 12’s and Mark II, Marlin 1895 & 336, Ruger M77 Hawkeye, No. 1, & 10/22, Remington 700 CDL, etc plus a Benelli Super Nova & Super Black Eagle II - all are on factory stocks.

I’m not saying all 5’ 3” women will fit all factory stocks, but it takes 2 minutes to measure - a good ballpark can be determined by measuring from the crease of a 90 degree bent elbow to a 90 degree bent trigger finger with the hand in a loose fist (hold a hammer handle), and with the wrist deviated (ulnar) approximately 30 degrees.

Not from a bench, but here’s Mrs. VT shooting that Mark II (rifle alignment twisted a bit because she’s panned in prep for a speed run on the PRS Speed Skills stage). Erect head, ~90 degree bent elbow, comfortable wrist deviation, and a well presented trigger finger... no complaints.

896D1A85-9FC0-4756-80B1-11FA1A1030E2.jpeg
 
I put a MK II into a pro varmint. It is a large, heavy piece of wood and didn't fit me vey well. There is plenty of wood to work with to get what you want and I was well satisfied with mine after the not too drastic alterations. The rifle part of the build never panned out and I finally gave up and sold the rig. I couldn't work up any interest at all in the At-1 while I was trying to choose a stock. It's a good concept that is ugly and clunky as offered IMO. Your opinion may differ.
 
Varminterror said:
@Axis II - her scopes are typically mounted farther back than mine (which is odd, since her neck is longer), and she uses a lower cheek riser than mine (I have higher cheekbones), but she fits typical factory stock LOP’s without issue. She has a dozen rifles, spread between AR’s, Savage 12’s and Mark II, Marlin 1895 & 336, Ruger M77 Hawkeye, No. 1, & 10/22, Remington 700 CDL, etc plus a Benelli Super Nova & Super Black Eagle II - all are on factory stocks.

I’m not saying all 5’ 3” women will fit all factory stocks, but it takes 2 minutes to measure - a good ballpark can be determined by measuring from the crease of a 90 degree bent elbow to a 90 degree bent trigger finger with the hand in a loose fist (hold a hammer handle), and with the wrist deviated (ulnar) approximately 30 degrees.

Not from a bench, but here’s Mrs. VT shooting that Mark II (rifle alignment twisted a bit because she’s panned in prep for a speed run on the PRS Speed Skills stage). Erect head, ~90 degree bent elbow, comfortable wrist deviation, and a well presented trigger finger... no complaints.

View attachment 1009997
Click to expand...
I will measure her tonight. It seems everything she holds she cant get her head in place on the stock. Its always a chin weld or she cant see through the scope. I suspect its a LOP issue because she has a short neck.

What ammo do you like for shooting out to 100yards?
 
Unless you need the adjustability I like the ProV better, tho what I have is the thumbhole as opposed to the regular @1.
If theres one complaint i have about the ProV, its that unless im running low rings i need some sort of riser to have a consistent cheek weld.
 
doubleh said:
I put a MK II into a pro varmint. It is a large, heavy piece of wood and didn't fit me vey well. There is plenty of wood to work with to get what you want and I was well satisfied with mine after the not too drastic alterations. The rifle part of the build never panned out and I finally gave up and sold the rig. I couldn't work up any interest at all in the At-1 while I was trying to choose a stock. It's a good concept that is ugly and clunky as offered IMO. Your opinion may differ.
Click to expand...
What did you have to do to the Pro Varmint? I agree, the AT 1 is ugly. I could deal with ugly if it helped us shoot.
 
LoonWulf said:
Unless you need the adjustability I like the ProV better, tho what I have is the thumbhole as opposed to the regular @1.
If theres one complaint i have about the ProV, its that unless im running low rings i need some sort of riser to have a consistent cheek weld.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. I planned on getting the adjustable riser if I went that route.
 
Axis II said:
I will measure her tonight. It seems everything she holds she cant get her head in place on the stock. Its always a chin weld or she cant see through the scope. I suspect its a LOP issue because she has a short neck.
Click to expand...

The buttstock LOP is for your arm and shoulders, not your neck or face position. Our cheek then falls as it will fore and aft on the comb. We then fit the comb to align the eye sufficiently above the bore to allow clearance for the bolt beneath the scope, and position the scope ahead of our eye according to its eye relief. We should not be manipulating LOP to align with a scope.

If she’s making a chin weld and her eye is too low to align with scopes, she needs a cheek riser. You’ll note risers on almost all of my long guns, because despite of my very short neck, I have high cheek bones, so I need my comb high to raise my eye up to my scopes.

If her eye is too far back to reach the eye box of your scopes, she needs scopes with longer eye relief or the scopes moved rearward to fit her eye.

Axis II said:
What ammo do you like for shooting out to 100yards?
Click to expand...

CCI Standard Velocity or Mini-mags, Tennex, Eley Club or Black, SK, all good. Often, I do my volume shooting with cheap Remington Golden Bullet ammo, and acknowledge the reduced performance potential in trade against high availability and low cost.
 
Axis II said:
Thanks for the info. I planned on getting the adjustable riser if I went that route.
Click to expand...
We're working on building a Target gun for my dad and that's the route I think we're going to end up going. I have to get them out and shooting on my pro varmint but so far he likes the way it feels Just got to make it adjustable enough.

On my old pro varmint I also added cable stop spacers under the recoil pad to adjust the length since I've got fairly long arms. I happen to have a grind to fit recoil pad that was an inch longer than the stock pad, so I just installed that on the most current one I'm using, But it's an easy way to adjust length.
 
Axis II said:
What did you have to do to the Pro Varmint? I agree, the AT 1 is ugly. I could deal with ugly if it helped us shoot.
Click to expand...

I chopped off some of the fore end to start with. The grip wasn't a smooth curve and was fat, real fat, so I put a decent radius in it and slimmed it down until it felt good. Then I removed some wood in the cutout on the bottom of the butt. The short little FV-SR looked goofy in that great big chunk of wood and I just changed the lines of everything to where I liked the way it looked.

Here is how it wound up when I was finished with it.

. g4gTCDWh.jpg
 
I second the ProVarmint.
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I don’t know how long involved you want to get, but it’s pretty easy to shorten them to fit. How often will she need to adjust the length?

I really was liking the AT One until I saw how square the grips were and how they were interfaced. I thought they were just wood and could be ordered either way.
They look neat though. I may still talk myself in to one.;)
 
doubleh said:
I chopped off some of the fore end to start with. The grip wasn't a smooth curve and was fat, real fat, so I put a decent radius in it and slimmed it down until it felt good. Then I removed some wood in the cutout on the bottom of the butt. The short little FV-SR looked goofy in that great big chunk of wood and I just changed the lines of everything to where I liked the way it looked.

Here is how it wound up when I was finished with it.

.View attachment 1010053
Click to expand...
Did you use a rasp and file?
 
Varminterror said:
The buttstock LOP is for your arm and shoulders, not your neck or face position. Our cheek then falls as it will fore and aft on the comb. We then fit the comb to align the eye sufficiently above the bore to allow clearance for the bolt beneath the scope, and position the scope ahead of our eye according to its eye relief. We should not be manipulating LOP to align with a scope.

If she’s making a chin weld and her eye is too low to align with scopes, she needs a cheek riser. You’ll note risers on almost all of my long guns, because despite of my very short neck, I have high cheek bones, so I need my comb high to raise my eye up to my scopes.

If her eye is too far back to reach the eye box of your scopes, she needs scopes with longer eye relief or the scopes moved rearward to fit her eye.



CCI Standard Velocity or Mini-mags, Tennex, Eley Club or Black, SK, all good. Often, I do my volume shooting with cheap Remington Golden Bullet ammo, and acknowledge the reduced performance potential in trade against high availability and low cost.
Click to expand...
So when she shoulders it the proper way in her shoulder pocket she cannot reach her cheek to the stock without bringing the rifle to her collar bone or under her shoulder pocket. She also has to stretch or un shoulder the gun to work the bolt.
 
Axis II said:
So when she shoulders it the proper way in her shoulder pocket she cannot reach her cheek to the stock without bringing the rifle to her collar bone or under her shoulder pocket. She also has to stretch or un shoulder the gun to work the bolt.
Click to expand...

Fit the LOP to her arm. If she can’t reach the bolt, she can’t reach the trigger properly either, so likely, the LOP is too long - the measurement method I mentioned above will get her within a half inch, and certainly within a usable length for her.

But as I mentioned above - Comb height and LOP are independent. If the scope is at its minimum clearance height and she still can’t get down onto the comb, then she probably has some neck mobility issues. The scope might not be in front of her eye, but she should at least be able to position her face on the stock. My surgeons classify me as “neckless,” but I can still get down onto the comb of even VERY low comb stocks (Ruger, Marlin). I need over an inch of comb rise on most factory stocks to raise my eye into position behind optics, but I can get my face down onto stocks without tilting. So she must have some mobility issues as well?
 
Axis II said:
Did you use a rasp and file?
Click to expand...

Very little. A miter saw made the fore end cut and I enlarged the stock cut out with bits in my mill/drill press and a router bit took care of the wood in between. Small sanding drums in a cordless drill worked in the smaller curves. A drum sander in the mill reshaped the curve in the grip. A small right angle grinder with a pad that accepts 5" velcro pads for random orbit sanders did most all of the rounding of the fore end and other wood removal. Then it was different grits of sandpaper with a block and various sizes of dowel rod to finish up. The finish is two coats of min-wax clear poly followed by one coat of matte to kill the shine.


The grinder setup can remove wood very quickly. It is also like a dremel tool in that you can ruin a project just as quickly if you don't know what you are doing. The sanding drums are more forgiving.
 
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