First AR-15 Suggestions

What type of AR-15 should I get?

  • Colt 603 M16A1 Style

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Colt 705 M16A2 Style

    Votes: 5 50.0%
  • Colt 653 "A1 Carbine" Style

    Votes: 1 10.0%
  • Colt 723 "A1E1 Carbine" Style

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Colt 727 "A2 Carbine Style

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • Total voters
    10
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My first AR was a left-handed 1-9 Stag M16A4 style. This closely mimicked the M16A2, which I preferred for semi-auto shootability over the A1 and M4 styles that I was also issued in training and Active Duty periods.
 
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Were the Colt 653, 723 and 727 models ever widely used by US Armed forces or were they just one of those things that sort of floated around but never caught on?
 
Were the Colt 653, 723 and 727 models ever widely used by US Armed forces or were they just one of those things that sort of floated around but never caught on?
http://www.retroblackrifle.com

If you want versatility, get a 16" middy flat top
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or a Colt 6920
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Anyone who tells you never get a Colt doesn't know what they don't know. Colt isn't always the answer, but it's the answer the majority of the time. There are a lot of reasons why.

If you want a retro, you're going to sacrifice some versatility. Not enough that you shouldn't get one. The most popular retros are battle proven configurations. But enough that if versatility is your number one priority, get a flat top.

As for which retro, that's for you to decide. Pick the one you think is the coolest and it'll serve you well and be a ton of fun to shoot. So, no more analysis paralysis. Get your AR and a case of ammo, balloons, clay pigeons, steel targets and whatever else you can think of and go have fun. Shooting is always better than not shooting.
 
I should also note finding the uppers is easy enough, but finding the right lowers is a pain. I don't have the time, tools or skills necessary to fully put together a lower from scratch. That's why I probably won't go for a 653 clone cause finding an A1 carbine lower is like finding a needle in a haystack on the internet.
 
The problem you are going to encounter with A1 and A2 uppers, is that not to many manufacturers offer them any more. And when you find them, you have to pay a little more.
A stripped A1 upper is harder to find, but A C7 upper shouldn’t be to hard. A C7 upper is just an A1 upper with an A2 brass deflector.
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I do like an A2 upper if I don’t plan to add an optic.
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If you plan to use a red dot or any other type of optic, a flat top upper is the best way to go.
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I’ve built a few rifles with uppers that didn’t hav a forward assist, but have never cared for the slick side upper that don’t have the forward assist and dust cover.
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For an all around AR, I would go with a flat top upper with a med length gas system, with a front sight tower. And a 1-9 or 1-8 twist.
You could use a carry handle or flip up rear sight, I prefer the flip up sight. You can add an optic at any time.
The med length gas system shoots a little smoother, gives you two more inches of hand guard and a longer sight radius.
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Were the Colt 653, 723 and 727 models ever widely used by US Armed forces or were they just one of those things that sort of floated around but never caught on?

Spanning about 30 years, the primary weapons were the M16A1, M16A2, then the transition to the M4. There were likely other version for specialty roles, and there are, of course, small differences between branches issue weapons... but that's about it.

Circling back to your original question... don't beat yourself up over a choice. Nothing you buy with a reasonable price tag is going to be super authentic exactimundo to any issue weapon. Find something you think you'll like and get it. Unless you are super purist, none of the little niggly things you mention, like the mag well fence, is going to mean anything.

FWIW, my Colt H-bar, bought in the early '90's, doesn't have a mag fence. I didn't even know this fact... I just picked it up and went shooting. Now that I know the difference... it still doesn't matter... ;)

H-bar on top, 16" middy lightweight carbine on bottom.

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Like I said, I'm probably just gonna go with an A2 carbine lower and the 723 upper from TNTE Sales. If I don't like the sights, I'll just sell it and swap it out with the 727 upper also from TNTE. If I don't like the carbine, I'll just sell it and either get an A2 20" or A1 20".

About pencil barrels, I know they seem to be mostly personal opinion, but do they seem to work better on full lengths or carbines?
 
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To answer your question: A1 or A2 20" fixed stock, carry handle sight upper. Best overall pick for a KISS rifle.

Colt 6920 for a KISS carbine, if it still comes with a detachable carry handle sight. I also like Stag for KISS carbines and rifles.

Anything flattop should have a 13"+ round rail IMO. 18" rifle gas is my favorite. My 14.5 is handy with a red dot. I have two 16" carbines that run fine.
 
About pencil barrels, I know they seem to be mostly personal opinion, but do they seem to work better on full lengths or carbines?

Pencil barrels are only really useful if you want to save weight - mostly if you plan on carrying the gun a long distance, but sometimes if you want to change the handling characteristics (balance point, swing, etc). Barrel length doesn’t really matter other than a 14.5” barrel having less material than a 20” barrel, and thus also saving weight. A light weight barrel will heat up faster than a heavier barrel, and when a barrel starts to get hot your zero can start wandering. If you’re just target shooting, go for the heavier profile barrel.

That said, if you’re going for an authentic retro style rifle, that plays into what type of barrel you have. A1 had a light barrel and the A2 had a heavier barrel.
 
I think I've found a good place to help me get the type of rifle I want: Charlie's Custom Clones. Anybody have any experience with them?
 
Pencil barrels are only really useful if you want to save weight - mostly if you plan on carrying the gun a long distance, but sometimes if you want to change the handling characteristics (balance point, swing, etc). Barrel length doesn’t really matter other than a 14.5” barrel having less material than a 20” barrel, and thus also saving weight. A light weight barrel will heat up faster than a heavier barrel, and when a barrel starts to get hot your zero can start wandering. If you’re just target shooting, go for the heavier profile barrel.

That said, if you’re going for an authentic retro style rifle, that plays into what type of barrel you have. A1 had a light barrel and the A2 had a heavier barrel.
The M16A2 did not have a true heavy barrel. It was only heavy from the gas port forward.
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I prefer my pencil barrels to even my govt profile for weight savings in what’s already a bulky rifle. Without much effort I can keep below 5 1/2 lbs. I’m not averse to heavier, my deer rifle tips well over 12 lbs but I typically carry it no more than 5 miles between 2 sets/day. If I’m lugging around what might be my lifeline for long stretches, I’m sticking with a thin barrel, I can always bring 2 or 3 on range day.
 
Any of you also have opinions on M16A1s with A2 Handguards on them? Apparently they were commonly used on movies and tv shows to simulate the appearance of an A2 and they look kind of cool in a frankenstein hybrid sort of way.
 
A1 and A2 handguards mount the same. When I was in the Army, my units always had the A1's (late '80's,) but some of the rifles were fitted with A2 handguards as the A1 triangle guards broke or wore out. I prefer the svelte feel of the A1's, personally, and the last AR I built... with a free float handguard... I got one that mimics the triangular profile of the A1.
 
Some good news. I've already found what uppers and lowers I'm going to use: A TNTE Sales Upper and PSA for an A2 Lower. Still no luck on a full A1 lower.
 
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