AR smith in AZ-NM-TX?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Ray P

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2004
Messages
566
Location
NM
Is this the right forum to request contact info for an AR gunsmith with bolt-fitting skills? Would prefer a 'smith in NM or adjacent states, but I'm not fixated on that.

Any recommendations would be appreciated
 
I believe I need to have the bolt lugs trimmed ever so slightly to get a fit-up to the barrel that will pass a go gauge. Kind of a long story how I got here, but I have a Tactical Kinetics barrel in 224 Valkyrie that won't quite pass a go gauge check with either a Faxon or Pro2A bolt. Got a summary spreadsheet that gives more background. I'll try to post it.
 
Let's see how this goes. Can you open it?
 

Attachments

  • faxon-pro2.pdf
    33.5 KB · Views: 5
Sort of an unusual request as most AR bolts are drop in fit, although I consider it good practice to check headspace on any bolt. What specifically do you need done to it?

Some possibilities come to mind:
A couple of turns to the chamber with a reamer (in the style of a bolt action rifle; turning by hand from the muzzle with pressure on the reamer from the bolt end).
Lapping the bolt and barrel together (4000 grit?).
Cutting a thousandths or so from the bolt lugs.

And I'm certain there are other methods I haven't heard of yet.
 
Can you turn the bolt when you insert it into the barrel extension by hand without the case gauge?
If you can not the barrel was not cut to spec or the Extension is out of spec. I would not cut on the bolt, those are supper hard and you don't want to weaken it.

After reading the pdf you need to have the chamber reamed. Barrel mfg should have done this at the factory. Return to factor for them to correct.
 
Last edited:
Can you turn the bolt when you insert it into the barrel extension by hand without the case gauge?
If you can not the barrel was not cut to spec or the Extension is out of spec. I would not cut on the bolt, those are supper hard and you don't want to weaken it.

After reading the pdf you need to have the chamber reamed. Barrel mfg should have done this at the factory. Return to factor for them to correct.

The bolt (both bolts, actually) will spin in the recess with no case or gauge present. Did I understand the question?)

Cutting the bolt was the recommendation from the barrel manufacturer (Tactical Kinetics, or TK).

The barrel seller (Pro2A) says my go gauge is most likely out of spec and I need to try firing a few rounds using their bolt rather than the Faxon bolt.
 
Sounds like the chamber wasn't finish reamed, is it supposed to be ready to shoot?

Yes. Barrel seller (Pro2A) says barrel is made with a minimum chamber that will only work with their bolt. But the Faxon bolt actually fits better. Not perfect, but better.
 
Are you checking head space with a stripped down bolt?

Absolutely! Both bolts are stripped. Now I know where the viton o-ring goes . I picked up a bolt tool from Spartan3D (Etsy) which makes the process easy.


Also gave the barrel a very thorough cleaning once I got it dismounted from the upper.
 
I don't have experience running a reamer. Can you recommend a gunsmith with experience finish- reaming ar barrels?
 
I really don't want to depend on TK or Pro2A for resolution. May as well pay someone to put it right.
 
Do you have a way to measure the bolt face depth, from the lug face? This should be 0.120". I have run across a few that were 0.121, and 0.119". If 0.119" it's 0.001" shallow make it fail the go gauge.

edit to correct a measurement.
 
Last edited:
Do you have a way to measure the bolt face depth, from the lug face? This should be 0.125". I have run across a few that were 0.126, and 0.124". If 0.124" it's 0.001" shallow make it fail the go gauge.

just the depth extension from the Staretts. I'll give it a try.
 
Using the little depth extension off my Starrett dial caliper, I got some strange stuff which makes me think I didn't do this right.
For 5 places on the Pro2A boltface, measured from the top of the lugs, I got 0.118" in two places and 0.119" in three.
For 5 places on the Faxon boltface, measured from the top of the lugs, I got 0.118" in four places and 0.119" in one place.
So for the halibut, I checked the boltface of an unused milspec 5.56 bolt and got 0.118" in each spot for four places.

My technique must be wrong. I extended the little extension out past 0.135" as read on the dial, and gently pressed the extension into the boltface until the extension was touching the boltface and the two sides of the caliper were touching the lug surfaces.

A true depth micrometer would have been ideal, but that I do not have.
 
Last edited:
...Can you recommend a gunsmith with experience finish- reaming ar barrels?

Arizona is full of good gunsmiths. Any of them should be capable of reaming a chamber. Doesn't have to be AR specific. Same process for all. He will need your barrel and bolt. Of course he will need the reamer and headspace gauges for your caliber.

You might start with these folks. They are noted for the quality of their work.
Accuracy Speaks - Derrick Martin
Accuracy Speaks
3960 North Usery Pass Road
Mesa, Arizona 85207
480-373-9499 [email protected]
[email protected]

A few more really good ones for your consideration -

Arrington Accuracy Works Phil Arrington
1408 West Ross Ave.
Phoenix, AZ 85027
Phone: (623) 582-5066

Compass Lake Eng.
719 White Dr
Alford, FL 32420
Phone: (850) 579-1208

Fulton Armory
8725 Bollman Pl., #1
Savage, MD 20763
Phone: (301) 490-9485

Medesha Firearms
10321 E Adobe Rd
Mesa, AZ 85207
Phone: (480) 986-5876
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.medeshafirearms.com

Albert Turner Enterprises
38327 W. Mountain View Road
Tonopah, AZ 85354
(623) 696-5843
[email protected]

Bill Wylde
Wylde & Co.
PO Box 261
Greenup, IL 62428
Phone: (217) 923-3266

White Oak Precision John Holliger
101 South Perry
Carlock, IL 61725
Phone: (309) 376-2288
 
Arizona is full of good gunsmiths. Any of them should be capable of reaming a chamber. Doesn't have to be AR specific. Same process for all. He will need your barrel and bolt. Of course he will need the reamer and headspace gauges for your caliber.
(...)

Thank you, BBBBill! I'll start chasing these guys down, see which are set up with reamers and gauges for the 224 Valkyrie!

And this will remind me not to pay too much attention in the future to a shootin' buddy what's been visited by the Good Idea Fairy.
 
Last edited:
Using the little depth extension off my Starrett dial caliper, I got some strange stuff which makes me think I didn't do this right.
For 5 places on the Pro2A boltface, measured from the top of the lugs, I got 0.118" in two places and 0.119" in three.
For 5 places on the Faxon boltface, measured from the top of the lugs, I got 0.118" in four places and 0.119" in one place.
So for the halibut, I checked the boltface of an unused milspec 5.56 bolt and got 0.118" in each spot for four places.

My technique must be wrong. I extended the little extension out past 0.135" as read on the dial, and gently pressed the extension into the boltface until the extension was touching the boltface and the two sides of the caliper were touching the lug surfaces.

A true depth micrometer would have been ideal, but that I do not have.

I rechecked my notes and the measurement as 0.120". I had bolts that ranged from 0.119-0.121" but this depth can be adjusted by cutting the locking lugs. Even with those measurements I was getting a 0.002" swing in head space.

Looking at the blue prints this is the way it's determined.
The locking lugs have a spec of 0.278" ±0.002"
The breach face is 0.156" -0.003" (from the locking lug face.)
If dead on spec your looking at 0.122"
if on low side you could be all the way down to 0.117"
 
I rechecked my notes and the measurement as 0.120". I had bolts that ranged from 0.119-0.121" but this depth can be adjusted by cutting the locking lugs. Even with those measurements I was getting a 0.002" swing in head space.

Looking at the blue prints this is the way it's determined.
The locking lugs have a spec of 0.278" ±0.002"
The breach face is 0.156" -0.003" (from the locking lug face.)
If dead on spec your looking at 0.122"
if on low side you could be all the way down to 0.117"

That does make me feel a bit better about my measuring skills, but I would still prefer a good depth mike. And it probably didn't help my results that I basically wound up taking a depth reading as measured from the average of two lug faces, but never the same two lugs for any specific point
 
I know an AR gunsmith in El Paso, but I'm not quite sure if that's too far for you.
That's definitely in range! Please share, and I'll contact them tomorrow during their business hours
 
Before I resorted to modification, I would check it with ammunition or even an empty case. If it works, it works.



I might alter the rifle if it is just one of a number of them I have in the caliber or it wouldn’t accept ammunition I had to buy for it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top