What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

I picked up earlier some things that were dropped off because they were beyond my ability to do, such as a P&W and cerakote job on something else. Also discussed bringing in another gun for some milling next month.

I decided it would be in my best interest that instead of buying another Glock to have it in MOS and selling the current 17 to help fund the newer one, that what I have now will be milled for an RMR cut.

I'm patiently waiting for the finish reamer to get here and busying myself with other things that can be done to my build. I'm also trying not to make work out of it to keep it a fun hobby for myself. I'll drill and tap the receiver for a scope. I'll use a one piece B-Squrare mount that I got off of eBay once upon a time. My theory for drilling and tapping is. Less is best. Meaning fewer holes. Three holes for a one piece mount instead of four holes for two piece mounts.

Additionally I have the unique opportunity here to give a couple of product reviews. The Sun Optics receiver drilling fixture vs the Wheeler receiver drilling fixture. I have used the Sun Optics jig for 4 of my Spanish Mauser builds. I figured what the hell. I might as well give some honest feedback by using the Wheeler fixture that I bought at the same time I bought the stock.

Stay tuned.

I'll swear it right here.....

Will NEVER loan out another gunsmith book,haha. Kunhausen Colt revolver #1 got lent out and well.... it's gone dang it. Midway has it for 50$ or so ttd. Got on evilbay and found the set of #1,and #2 for 25$ plus the ride.

Got some "revo" (bwahaha) work to do on one of the Colts here.

I know the feeling loaned out my first Speer reloading Manuel, hope they got as much use out of it as I did.

I'll be taking a ride later to recrown my 6.5 muzzle then head to the range, my first trip since July 4th to rezero and test loads in several rifles.may function yesterday 280AI if I have time.

I started drilling and tapping yesterday and finished one receiver with the devil I know. The Sun Optics drilling fixture does just fine. Then I started on the receiver for the current build mounted in the Wheeler Drilling fixture and it works just fine as well. At least up until the last hole I had to drill and tap. I found a spot that I either need to spot anneal or just buy some carbide drill bits to get the job done. After breaking my last 4 #31 drill bits that I'll replace soon enough. This time I'll buy some shorter length bits they are less likely to break as fast and wander less.

Now for my product review. Both receiver drilling fixtures work as they are supposed to flawlessly as long as the directions are followed. If I didn't know any better I'd say the Sun Optics is a Chinese knock off of the Wheeler Fixture which is made in the USA. It is a little sloppier when it comes to the drill and tap bushing holes but still does the job famously. Each fixture comes with a drill bit, 6x48 tpi tap, a drill bit guide, stand off pins for the front of the receiver for small and intermediate actions, a tap guide and set of instructions. The Wheeler kit also comes with a collet style tap wrench.

The stand off pins for the Sun Optics fixture are roll pins. The stand off pins for the Wheeler fixture are threaded. The stand off bushings for the Wheeler fixture are made for the counter bored alignment shaft and the Sun Optics stand off bushings have a V milled into them to fit on top of the alignment shaft. The alignment shafts have some major differences too. Now with all of that said. The Wheeler fixture is a much better engineered product and far for thought was placed into the design. That is probably why it has been discontinued and now copied.

The wheeler fixture gets my vote.

They can also pull double duty as a holding fixture and work on good variety of actions.

I'll see what I can do with my type 99 Arisaka receivers.

Had time to dig into the Glenfield/Marlin Mod 75 on the feed/jam problem. Looks like the Feed throat is toast. Apparently his son was using a pocket knife to dig out the jam bullets.


I have not been able to locate the Conversion kit (or any feed throats for that matter) to take this to the latest mod. I was able to clean up the feed from the magazine tube but the angled up ramp is what's causing the problem. I may set these up in my end mill and cut a slot to put some metal in via epoxy or Loctite. Then I can cut the ramp to allow the bullets to angle up. The left side view shows where it's chewed up, allowing the base to tilt the nose up.

assembled a new lower for a 14.5" upper I have coming

Although I really like going to see your dad, I felt bad about going today because he wasn't feeling well so the only reason I bothered him was due to only having a week before hunting season. Anyway we did get to recrown my 6.5x55 barrel, and recess the crown so that it can't get damaged from being bumped.



We also squared up the muzzle. Had to remove the barrel from the actionto get it done, then reinstall. Afterwards I drove to my home finger to test and, to hopefully zero it. Something changed with scope after reinstalling the barrel cause my first shot hit nothing at about 30 yds.

So I pulled yho bolt and did old school bore sight my cross hairs were looking at the bottom of the target standinstead of the target bull like the bore was.

I did manage to get my 50 cal inline zeroed though so I did get one gun done. After I got home I pulled my scope and re installed it in the rings and all was well. I should have taken a few ness9tools with me. Oops

No I didn't shoot for group or shoot uthe 280ai. Could find impacts of the 2 shots I fired with yhe 6.5. I looked through the bore and then checked the cross hairs at 30. Bore on center of target, scope looked at thr lower half of the 200 yd berm. I figure that you torqued the scope when I reinstalled it and it had a twist. Rife was at least a foot higher than the optic on top, didn't want to waste components, didn't have the right tools and was running out of daylight.

The 280 I forgot the rear ferrule, and ammo, thought I had everything. I dislike being pressed for time.

I must say yhat with my start loads of h4350 and 140 hpbt match bullets and recoil pad yhe 6.5 it was a pussycat to shoot.

I put a Wilson Spring kit in my S&W 19. They even put out a nice video on YouTube saying how to do it!

Primer ignition is 100% now; Love it!

I finally got that pesky hole drilled that was giving me fits. I had to take a carbide bur to it and break through the case hardening another drill bit later and the tap went in smoothly without any issues with the help of copious amounts of cutting fluid.

The finish reamer will be here any day now.

Recently had a Marlin 75 that would hang up on the rims of some rounds when trying to put the inner mag tube back in. Sometimes at the upper end but mostly down near round three or four. Cure was to dis-assemble inner mag tube and open up the follower stop rim. Done by inserting a steel tube and tapping with a hammer while rolling mag tube. May have enlarged it by a thou or so, but no more hangups or jammed tube when loading now. Suspect it's more of a QC problem with bulk ammo, was not brand specific.

My Spanish lady build. Cleaning, sanding, bluing and polishing all of the metal before my chamber reamer gets here. So I can give her the final fit and finish before I take it to the range and use it for deer season.

Steyr M9-A2 Holosun SCS and comp . A few small things to finish up . Was able to retain factory rear sight after a few modifications. Kept .050 or more clearance on the striker roller . Will have the grind one corner on the extractor just a little .

For my 500mag I am about to repair an extractor gear for one chamber that needs advancing but haven’t got the nerve to proceed, yet.

Just removed 0.002” of cylinder end-play using these inexpensive stainless washers I got from “Triggershims”.



I also shimmed back 0.004” of hammer play to remove hammer chaffing noticed on frame and panel marks. In addition to that, might even shim the cylinder stop but haven’t done it yet.

Got them from triggershims . com

I made an action screw out of a screw blank and the 1/4" x 22 tpi die I bought last week, did some more polishing and fitting of parts. My finish reamer arrived today.

I almost panicked when I realized that didn't have the T handle. Not to worry I have the external drain plug socket set that will work just fine.

Today I modified my Astra .22 short to make the slide lock back after the last round. The magazine follower is soft aluminum, so I made a .060 deep slot on the back side with a file, then filled the slot with a piece of .060 thick stainless. Drilled a 1/16" hole through the steel and the follower, then pinned them together with a short piece of a finishing nail. What craftsmanship! The slot is deeper at the ends than it is in the middle, and the drill walked all over the place - but it works!

I replaced the extractor in my trusty old Ruger Mk. II Target. After starting this, I found the firing pin stop pin was bent and very hard to remove. Dry firing does this, but this pistol must be dry fired to be disassembled.

I had an old Iowegan Book of Knowledge on the Mk. IIs, and it walked me through the whole process. He has the helpful tip that Mk. II extractors are the same as 10/22 extractors. this was good to know, because Mk. II parts are slowly being discontinued.

Also, good to know was that the firing pin stop pin can be made from the shank of a 1/8 inch drill bit. I Dremeled one up myself, though it is a couple thousandths smaller in diameter than the OEM part.

Mk. IIIs use a roll pin, so they’re retained by spring tension and probably won’t get bent as easily from dry firing? I’ll try one of those if this isn’t satisfactory.

I got it all back together and swapped the comfy Hogue wrap-around grip for a used CTC laser grip I picked up in the classifieds here.

I can’t wait to get this (my first gun) back into service at the range. I plan to zero the laser for 25 yards, which is the far end of my local indoor range.



The next project will be to remove a scope from an air pistol and mount it on my Redhawk; make it into a proper target pistol.

Clark and VQ makes a lot of good high grade replacement parts if needed.

I love my 6 7/8" SS MKIII, it has been one good reliable pistol. Have the Clark Bushing setup to remove all the slop in the trigger. I have mine set at 20 oz., ultra light. Been that way for 20+ yrs and never a hick-up. No jerking the trigger on this one, teaches good trigger discipline. Don't touch till your ready to fire. Every one that shoots it falls in love with it. If I don't tell them to dry fire it first to see how light the trigger is, they complain it went off without touching it. I say it only fires when you touch it.

Blue68f100 said:

Clark and VQ makes a lot of good high grade replacement parts if needed.

Click to expand...

^^^^ I have used lots of both makers parts. Mostly Volquartsen in the last few years. I have a 10-22 that is all VQ except the receiver and the stock. About to replace the receiver with a Brownells BRN-22 railed receiver.

Made some progress on the Glenfield/Marlin Mod 75. Got the chewed up ramp repaired. I inlaid some SS and machined the ramp.



Put it back together and test fired it and have another problem. The extractor is loosing control of the spent cartridge and it ends up jammed between the top of the receiver and the next chambered round. This ejector setup on this rifle does not bounce the spend round off of an object. Opposite the extractor on the the other side of the bolt is a pusher. So the round is held in place between the 2 as it slides up into the bolt face. Some how the pusher is suppose to kick the spent cartridge out but it's not doing it but 39% of the time. This pusher spring is weaker than the extractor spring. I don't know if this is correct or someone before me swapped them. I believe the pusher needs to be stronger to get the round out.