What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

Some years ago, I was able to pick up a H&R Classic Hunter in .45 Colt. A stupidly fun little rifle, it always puts a smile on my face... except for the factory open sights, I just don't do buckhorns well, anymore, and... further... I had the thing propped up as far as it would go to get it on paper. What I really wanted was a Williams FP peep sight for it... but Williams has discontinued that model for the H&R, but they still catalog the WGRS. Unfortunately, the WGRS has been Unobtanium for some time, and all the normal outlets were out as well. An email to Williams, and I finally got the word that they were in production and due on the shelves soon! Patience is a virtue, right?

A quick check on Midway last week... and voila'!

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I still have concerns that the front sight is too high... I may have to look at replacing that as well, but at least that is a standard dovetail FSB, nothing proprietary.
Looks great! For my few peepsight guns, mostly BP, I've had to install that "reading glasses insert", but that works quite well.
 
I had to replace a trigger upgrade, and the second upgrade performed much better than the first upgrade. I initially installed a Rise 535 on a 5.56 NATO 10.2" SBR. However, its short reset + single stage + higher recoil from an SBR = a hard to control trigger that would fire multiple rounds while trying to hold back the trigger for the reset from the first pull.

The second upgrade is a TriggerTech Duty AR-15. It's marketed as 3.5 lb but I clocked it as 4lb. Perfect to be honest. It's also a two stage trigger. The Duty aspects markets it with a more forceful reset. It absolutely handled the SBR in a way the Rise couldn't. It also has the ergonomics I sought after that initiated the upgrades. If I hadn't bought two 535's because they were on sale, I would have bought another TriggerTech. Just one 535 is almost two TriggerTechs!
 
Any idea what brand LR308 handguard utilizes a round barrel nut (no flats), with 1-9/16 OD, and four notches at 90°? Got a good deal on a handguard a while back. But now that I'm ready to install it, I don't have a torque-capable wrench that fits.

Pretty sure I'll hear back from the supplier this Wednesday, but thought I'd check here in case somebody recognizes the mfr.
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I expect the wrench will be similar to this wrench for an AR 15, but with LR308 dimensions.

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I have enough info to make one if needed, but I am not wanting another sub-project to do before I can complete the primary project.
 
Fitted a second-hand pillar bedded Darrel Holland laminate stock to a Remington 700 barreled action in 7mm PRC. Had to open up the barrel channel significantly to fit the magnum barrel contour. I think it came out pretty well.

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Slow day here, the kids just ended their high school year today. So, I replaced the less-than-stellar trigger with a Rise Armament 3.5 lb trigger set in an Aero Precision lower

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(Yes, I”m in Ca and that is a bullet button magazine release. :()

Now my 7.62x39 AR has a much nicer and smoother trigger pull. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
I modified a replacement bolt shroud to accept a Dayton Traister low profile safety for an 1893 Mauser that had a broken one. The safety would fall out of the old shroud when it was in battery. It is an easy fix.

Contrary to popular belief when the shroud has been modified correctly the safety will not fall out and when the nylon pin is also installed correctly it will not rattle.
 
Parts arrived today to change lever and replace safeties on Marlin 1894 and 1895. So far, I have changed lever on the 1894, easy install using Ranger Point parts.

Also spent some time filing on a barrel nut wrench to improve lug engagement on a DPMS clone handguard install. Not a fan of those Charlie Foxtrot abominations that are called armorer's/combo wrenches. Especially when used with a torque wrench.
 
Worked a bit on the .243, got the wrench filed down to a good fit. Barrel nut torqued to 35-40 ft#. But the handguard must be sprung; even at max compression possible on the three mounting screws, the handguard still twists on the barrel nut.

Shopping for a new low profile handguard
 
Switched that pre-64 m70 3006 barreled action out of the stock, I put it in my 270 stock to do a function check and shoot some rounds. I should have put a scope on it to get a idea how it shoots, I did manage to clean the bore up pretty good using some scotch brie on a patch jag. It had a pretty bad spot of rust in the middle of the bore but looks like I got most of it out. I plan to pull the barrel off some day for a 280 barrel but still need a stock and floor plate along with a spring and follower. It's just a shame it was a supergrade, the front sight is worth several hundred bucks. Maybe I can find someone looking for that sight and trade some stuff.
 
Drifted out the front sight on my pre-64th model 70, was a pain trying to remove it without damaging it more the the Nick that's on the gold bead. If it was a cheap sight of would probably came off easy but not this one, seems the Redfield full gold bead sights sell for 3-4 bucks this one is a #255. I'll get a Lyman or something cheap to replace it with the same height. I'm thinking trying the peep sight out, the front sight being worth so much I don't feel comfortable using the rifle in fear of damaging the sight.
 
Pretty simple task with the correct tools. Swapping out training Ruger LCR22 front sight for XS so the sight picture will be similar to LCR9 XS sight. 1/16" coiled roll pin removed L>R with sequenced roll pin / parallel pin punches and installed using roll pin starter punch. Assembly came with blue loctite which was used.
Factory pressed in roll pin distorted polymer sight blade on the left side.

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Began assembly of a collection of aftermarket 10-22 parts. This started out as a plan to upgrade one of my 10-22s, but has evolved into an all Volquartsen gun. That was not the original intent, but as I aquired the parts over time I ended up with enough Volquartsen to do everything except the receiver. It was then that I said "Why not go all the way" and purchased the receiver, too.
 
Started the process of getting my 1897 " trench gun " project re blued and assembled. Bought What seemed to be a junk receiver and barrel assembly off GB but ended turning out to be a good deal. Recently allocated all of the missing parts, and I'm having a local smith go through and check everything for obvious safety concerns. I was hoping to keep the weathered look to the gun, but wire wheel finish isn't the greatest for lasting the test of time.
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A lot of discussion in the AR 15 / M4 space regarding the preference to index the Ar bolt cam pin so it is re-installed in the same orientation after each disassembly / cleaning to prohibit asymmetric pin wear on the major diameter to wallow out the bolt cam mortise shape . Forward Controls mfg. was one of the entities first offering a pivot pin with an indexable mark on top of the pin to execute the Plan. I took my KAC SR-30 cam pin to the Bridgeport with a 1/16" 4-flute ball head mill bit@ 500 rpm with a little lubrication to effect the index mark. Used the DRO to center the pin after Starret squaring it against the vise fixed jaw. Basically used the weight of the quill to free fall on to the part which easily removed the material from the hardened steel pivot pin. Finished the surface with 44/40 oxpho cold blue.
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A lot of discussion in the AR 15 / M4 space regarding the preference to index the Ar bolt cam pin so it is re-installed in the same orientation after each disassembly / cleaning to prohibit asymmetric pin wear on the major diameter to wallow out the bolt cam mortise shape . Forward Controls mfg. was one of the entities first offering a pivot pin with an indexable mark on top of the pin to execute the Plan. I took my KAC SR-30 cam pin to the Bridgeport with a 1/16" 4-flute ball head mill bit@ 500 rpm with a little lubrication to effect the index mark. Used the DRO to center the pin after Starret squaring it against the vise fixed jaw. Basically used the weight of the quill to free fall on to the part which easily removed the material from the hardened steel pivot pin. Finished the surface with 44/40 oxpho cold blue.
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Think the aero pro bcg's have the mark now, I'd like to mark mine but I'm afraid I may mess them up from using a center punch so I just rub the one side with a bullet tip to smear some brass on to mark it.
 
I picked up a used BCM BCG, used BCM QRF 12, and a used BCM 14.5 BFH ELW on trade recently. I traded the QRF12 for a NIB MCMR 13.

I decided to make a complete all BCM upper and ordered the necessary parts. Today the last of what I had needed had showed up. I thermally fitted a demo BCM upper to the barrel and torqued the nut to spec. Then installed the gas block and gas tube. I checked for concentricity before mounting the MD, and then P&W the SFMB I had lying around to it so it can use my RC2 if needed. Installed the MCMR using a level on the upper itself and another level on the free float to get things done right from the get go.

Once the above was done, I tore down the BCG and rebuilt it from the parts kits that BCM offers to tune up their BCG's. The bolt had passed gauging and showed no magnetism. The gas rings passed the worn gas ring test, and the gas key was still torqued to spec, no need to replace. The cam pin, firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, whole entire extractor, and ejector with spring and roll pin was replaced.

Installed their Mod 4x4 medium CH and then the BCG and set aside.

Now to swap a few pistol grips around to match things, load my new PSA Micro Dagger magazines to leave stored for a few weeks as part of the breaking in before shooting a 100 through each one, and clean the bench up.
 
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