Is it really “OCD”??

I clean brass with steel pins in a solution! On the reloading side I find the expander ball pulls more easily through the neck when clean and has no carbon; big difference at least on my Dillon press. On the firearm side I am reducing how much carbon is "polishing" the chamber when sliding into battery. The fact that the inside of the case and the primer pockets look brand new clean is just an added bonus.
I'm just sayin
Bottom line is that everyone can reload they way they want. I listen to others and combine my personal experience to reload the way I want. Cleaning brass is the least favorable step for me.
 
Tumbled with Lizard Litter Desert Blend and Nu-Finsh. Nothing against wet tumbling but dry tumbling is a lot less time consuming.

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I like it shiny clean because it's easier to detect any problems with the brass, like a crack in the case if one exists.

Also, I like it for handling, as it keeps my hands cleaner.

I vibrataory clean with walnut and corncob mix. I add nu-finish to small pieces of rags to make it shine but also to collect the dust better. I throw the small rag pieces in the trash after one use. I only change out the media once every couple years.

Lastly, I like the fact that it takes no additional work whatsoever to make them super shiny - just leave them in the tumbler longer!
 
Radom Guy said:
I like it shiny clean because it's easier to detect any problems with the brass, like a crack in the case if one exists.

Also, I like it for handling, as it keeps my hands cleaner.

I vibrataory clean with walnut and corncob mix. I add nu-finish to small pieces of rags to make it shine but also to collect the dust better. I throw the small rag pieces in the trash after one use. I only change out the media once every couple years.

Lastly, I like the fact that it takes no additional work whatsoever to make them super shiny - just leave them in the tumbler longer!
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I totally agree, clean brass leads to easier better inspections.... the only detractors would be those that have ocd that worry about prints... handle and inspect offen in your process... I've eliminated them at every step, and sill found small cracks in the necks when adding powder... black x on the head their not coming back home.
 
Well I’m brand new to the party but I recently cleaned 400 cases in hot water, dawn and a splash of vinegar with just hand agitation and soaking. Within 20 mins the outsides looked brand new. It wasn’t range pickup, all the stuff I’ve shot once. Anyway dried it with fan for couple hours and swabbed each case inside with 2 Q tips and got all the schmuttz out.i did give the primer pockets a pass with the Lee hand tool. The cases look great. I might just keep this up and not get a tumbler. I’d rather spend that money on a scale dispenser or a nicer press IMG_3207.jpeg
 
AJC1 said:
Clean brass means clean dies and clean guns... it's a lot better than the alternative...
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I agree. :thumbup:

I love clean shiny brass. I clean in a tumbler using Lyman Turbo corn cob media and time. I usually run my brass about 8 hours a batch. I do not size / deprime before cleaning.

This is how I like my cases.
1709959174426.jpeg

Shiny cases in the process of reloading.
1709958166541.jpeg

I also like clean burning powder. For .38, .357 & 9mm W244 burns really clean. I had just fired these. It’s sooty as heck in .45 Colt.
1709956870758.jpeg
 
Hi. I'm Captain Kirk and I have a brass cleaning problem.
I like my brass looking new. No, scratch that...I have actually polished new brass right out of the bag because it wasn't shiny enough...BETTER than new, in some instances.
Brass gets a complete and thorough clean, inspection, and reconditioning and bagged and labeled. So when I unbag it to load, there are no questions. It's as good as new. Or better, in some cases.
It gives me something to do when I'm not shooting and seems to make the reloading process go so much quicker and smoother; prime, drop powder, seat the bullet and crimp (if needed).
Yes, probably way more work than necessary but they look great!
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
I don’t think it’s a real disorder to want shiny brass.
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I definitely agree since I like shiny brass as well. I told my doctor about it and he agreed as well. Lock the thread, quick!

My brass polishing history started with none, then dry vibratory, then wet tumble. Tried all three. Ended up with wet tumbling as my preferred method.

In addition to all the other shiny brass comments, I find it easier to view powder levels inside shiny cases.
 
Captain*kirk said:
Hi. I'm Captain Kirk and I have a brass cleaning problem.
I like my brass looking new. No, scratch that...I have actually polished new brass right out of the bag because it wasn't shiny enough...BETTER than new, in some instances.
Brass gets a complete and thorough clean, inspection, and reconditioning and bagged and labeled. So when I unbag it to load, there are no questions. It's as good as new. Or better, in some cases.
It gives me something to do when I'm not shooting and seems to make the reloading process go so much quicker and smoother; prime, drop powder, seat the bullet and crimp (if needed).
Yes, probably way more work than necessary but they look great!
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Makes perfect sense to me.

IMG_4557.jpeg
 
I go for kind of shiny, kind of. Brighten it up a bit, then do the rest of the prep and sizing. I then clean again in hot soapy water, rinse and dry, just cause I want all the grease and lube and whatever out of the case mouth before I prime and seat bullets. You can tell when seating there isn't as much tension as with new brass, well - grip I guess is the right term, the tension is exactly the same, but the metals grip way more on brand new brass.
 
GeoDudeFlorida said:
is there any real advantage to squeaky clean brass versus just cleaning off the lead and dust deposits?
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Not that I have seen, my most accurate groups were shot with brass that had only been cleaned and brushed by hand after prep.

"squeaky" clean, also isn't as smooth in dies as not squeaky brass. More force makes it easier to yank things out of concentricity and is obviously more work the instant you cycle the handle.

Absolutely depends on what you want though. I have vibratory, rotary, dry (walnut/corncob), wet, ultrasonic, use them all. Depends on wants/expectations.

I take that back, if you throw them on the ground, shiny ones are easier to find, thats an advantage.
 
jmorris said:
Not that I have seen, my most accurate groups were shot with brass that had only been cleaned and brushed by hand after prep.

"squeaky" clean, also isn't as smooth in dies as not squeaky brass.

Absolutely depends on what you want though. I have vibratory, rotary, dry (walnut/corncob), wet, ultrasonic, use them all. Depends on wants/expectations.
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Yes squeaky clean can be a problem so I dry vibratory tumble in plain corn cob after wet tumbling. Gives just enough lubricity on its own to promote smooth expanding, etc.
 
Am still using just walnut media in tumbler. A fresh reharge of the media gets a little polishing compound, but the media is dust reduced and more effective with occasional little bit of water. Am very rarely cleaning inside of case necks, and rarely don't clean primer pockets. A lot of this is due to habit, but not cleaning the inside of case necks leaves sort of soot to lubricate. My most commonly used semi's and bolts (not hunting rifles) have brass catchers.

For rifle brass shot at a slow rate, like to clean the out side of case necks promptly in the field, while it's very easy to do with moistened cloth. Being old, have lots of pill bottles which are ideal for keeping small segment of dampened cloth in.
 
thump_rrr said:
Despite my vibratory tumbler having a well fitted lid I had a fine film of dust covering eveything in the garage after a couple of weeks.
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When my Midway tumbler finally died, I got a Lyman. The Lyman has a perforated lid... and the first time I ran untreated walnut media, the dust was incredible... I was surprised there was any media left in the bowl. Besides polish helping knock the dust down, I just drape a hand towel over the top, now, and that works well enough. The dust, and possible lead issue, is why the tumbler stays in the garage, however.
 
CQB45ACP said:
Makes perfect sense to me.

View attachment 1198437
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With revolvers and most rifles, if I shoot less than three or four cylinders - or less than a full box w/ rifle - I’ll clean them with a rag and Hoppe’s No.9 while I’m cleaning guns. They go back in the box they came out of and get reloaded according to the label as soon as I get a chance. I don’t track my brass usage or keep a reload count so it doesn’t really matter if I reload and shoot the same brass over and over or keep it even up. Even with hunting loads in .30-06 if the brass passes inspection then it is in about the same condition as what didn’t get shot that day. Keeping in mind my rifles are almost exclusively closed action repeater or single shot, only a couple of self-loaders, and I’m not a hot rodder.

It’s really been pretty cool reading about everyone’s favorite methods and the reasoning behind them. Good conversation!
 
Im in the squeaky clean shiny camp with SSTL. Just not interested in dust and lead on my hands, in my lungs, all over my basement, or in my progressive.

I can get brass as clean or cleaner in 30-60 minutes wet tumbling as it does with multiple hours doing dry. I dont care about primer pockets or the inside of the case being perfectly clean, that's why I run 30-60 minutes. Yes, it does take longer to dry, but Im generally processing 1000s of cases at a time, so I just batch them out, rack them up, and let them dry 24 hours with a fan on them. If Im in a hurry, 20 minutes in the oven at 200 degrees, and they are dry. I let my brass get tarnished after I wet tumble, as it does not affect how it loads or shoots, I just want it clean. Most of it settles at a nice dark golden color over time.

A pointer for those having sticking issues with PTXes with pistol brass? Use Hornady OneShot. It will make sizing a breeze, and your PTX will not stick. It also does not contaminate powder and doesn't need to be tumbled off. For rifle brass I do use Imperial dry neck lube when running a mandrel, followed by a brass brush post chamfer/deburr as I recognize that little bit of leftover carbon and dush does act as a lubricant of sorts.
 
For me it's 50% psycho 50% reasonable.....

Somehow I am happier in my reloading room with shiny new (looking) brass to load. If I'm not psyched, I have to force myself to do the grunge work of making the brass suitable to put in my clean and expensive equipment.....and it's sure not as fun.....period.;)

On the reasonable side, when I use a regular dry tumbler, and then have to separate the media from the brass, there's always dust.....and it's anything but safe to breathe dust. And it takes hours with some brass to get it reasonably clean, vs one or two hours in with lemishine and pins. Yes you have to dry it.....that's what my sunny west facing back patio is for. It's not as if I have to stand there and watch it dry......reloaders have other things to do surely......like 3D print collators? And I don't have to stand around and watch that either.

Then there's the other mentioned reasonable plus.....seeing inside a case. I like video cameras for powder checking. Dark dirty cases are hard to see in.....bling makes it way better. Look at the test video below in full screen.......it that OCD? To me that's an awesome safety improvement for my old Pro 2000. Once I Improved the location of the camera, it got even better.

 
GW Staar said:
For me it's 50% psycho 50% reasonable.....

Somehow I am happier in my reloading room with shiny new (looking) brass to load. If I'm not psyched, I have to force myself to do the grunge work of making the brass suitable to put in my clean and expensive equipment.....and it's sure not as fun.....period.;)

On the reasonable side, when I use a regular dry tumbler, and then have to separate the media from the brass, there's always dust.....and it's anything but safe to breathe dust. And it takes hours with some brass to get it reasonably clean, vs one or two hours in with lemishine and pins. Yes you have to dry it.....that's what my sunny west facing back patio is for. It's not as if I have to stand there and watch it dry......reloaders have other things to do surely......like 3D print collators? And I don't have to stand around and watch that either.

Then there's the other mentioned reasonable plus.....seeing inside a case. I like video cameras for powder checking. Dark dirty cases are hard to see in.....bling makes it way better. Look at the test video below in full screen.......it that OCD? To me that's an awesome safety improvement for my old Pro 2000. Once I Improved the location of the camera, it got even better.

Click to expand...

Brass I take to the range can certainly wet tumbled clean in less than 30 minutes and completely dry in the toaster oven in 15.... I don't accept that dry tumbling is any faster period... range pickups dug out of the mud are clean in an hour....
This is not calling you out!!!!!!!
Just setting the record straight...
 
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