CraigC
Sixgun Nut
This is how 'it' begins, so innocent. You. Are. Doomed.
Like the rest of us.
Like the rest of us.
Build a AR?
- Thread starter tws3b2
- Start date
I've put a few Anderson lowers together but the Aero's are worth the few dollars more.
The set screw for taking out the slop is nice, floppy uppers may not effect function or accuracy but still bug me to no end.
It's tapped for a 4-40 set screw for the take down pin detent spring also.
Not really necessary but kinda handy if you start swapping out buffer tubes later on.
The set screw for taking out the slop is nice, floppy uppers may not effect function or accuracy but still bug me to no end.
It's tapped for a 4-40 set screw for the take down pin detent spring also.
Not really necessary but kinda handy if you start swapping out buffer tubes later on.
GHinNH
Member
You know nothing about me, especially to make any sort of determination. You do you buttercup, I don't need your help.
NeverEnoughFDE
Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2024
- Messages
- 82
I ran Weapon Shield for years. I have been running red Lucas for about a year or so & no reliability issues, but it dries up too fast IMO. Picked up some Slip 2000 EWL and will be trying that for the 1st time this weekend.For lube they do like to run "wet" and it's easy to spend a lot of money fast on trying different ones. MGL (machine gun lube) is a "secret" formula that's been around for decades. Usually ATF mixed with some other ingredient depending on who you are talking to. Generally speaking Moly of some sort.
Some time ago I put it all away and switched to a refillable ketchup/catsup squeeze bottle of SOTAR lube. My twist on it is I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease but mix with synthetic ATF.
It's also real handy to have ready at hand on the bench, as a go to lube for anything else I might be working on.
Home Brew AR Lube & AR Lubrication
The first part of this video demonstrates how I make my Home Brew AR15 Lubricant aka "secret sauce". The second part demonstrates how I lubricate an AR in 2...www.youtube.com
OP
OP
tws3b2
Member
Well, The lower is complete. Not too much trouble.
The upper came all together from PSA. Is there anything that should be done before attaching the lower?
The upper came all together from PSA. Is there anything that should be done before attaching the lower?
This is called "shotgunning" the weapon. It allows you to inspect the trigger and BCG. Just pull the rear takedown pin and let the upper/lower down.
It also let's you pull the charging handle and BCG out of the weapon, without taking the upper off the lower.
OP
OP
tws3b2
Member
Complete and ready for the range.
InTheSwamp
Member
Congrats! Now keep checking on PSA daily deals
Looks like it'll scratch the itch, for a little bit.
All that's left of my first one is the Anderson lower, take down pins and the trigger guard.
Went with a PSA 14.7" FN barreled upper and other bits. Third barrel, second upper.
Stocked up on 20 and 30 round mags with the PSA daily deal bundles.
200 rounds of ammo and 20 mags were good ones.
Pretty sure I'm set for life on mags now.
All that's left of my first one is the Anderson lower, take down pins and the trigger guard.
Went with a PSA 14.7" FN barreled upper and other bits. Third barrel, second upper.
Stocked up on 20 and 30 round mags with the PSA daily deal bundles.
200 rounds of ammo and 20 mags were good ones.
Pretty sure I'm set for life on mags now.
NO!! Don’t do that. You’ll want to know if a 20” rifle length system is better. Next thing you know your shooting a cold hammer forged premium A4 20” upper on a rifle length lower. Before you know it you’re lugging a 12 lb, 20” rifle length AR 10 and having to feed that thing.
InTheSwamp
Member
12.66 lbs, ... Tell me about it! lol
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
See what I mean? Doomed! 
GHinNH
Member
Sometimes overlooked, the hammer spring legs are in the groove on top of the trigger pin to hold it in place, and maybe stake the castle nut on the buffer tube.
You'll need to experiment with the tension screw to see what works best for you, no idea if AERO suggests any procedure with it.
Leatherbark
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2006
- Messages
- 29
If you buy a complete assembled upper and if you have good fine motor skills you can assemble one with pliers, screwdrivers a hammer and punch and a flashlight in about an hour. Providing you don't lose any springs or pins LOL.
The tension set screw is under the grip, has a delron tip that makes contact with the upper.
Supposed to loctite it in but my stuff gets swapped around so I just used another set screw to lock it down, which takes a little fiddling around to get right.
Supposed to loctite it in but my stuff gets swapped around so I just used another set screw to lock it down, which takes a little fiddling around to get right.
OP
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tws3b2
Member
I've seen the tension screw but I've not seen any info on what to do with it in any videos or anywhere else. So far I've just kind of let it lay.
small town life
Member
post 117 has the answer and what it does is push up on the upper as to keep it tight/tighter as not to shake/flop/rattle. Close the upper and push in the pivot pin, turn the AR upside down and you'll see a torx/allen screw where the pistol grip goes (when the grip is removed). Tighten it to much and it's difficult to remove the pivot pin.
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tws3b2
Member
The channel locks with duct tape worked great. Allen Wrench just a tad smaller than the trigger and hammer group pins and take down pins made getting them in there a lot easier. Especially the hammer. I also used a nail set tool to drive in the roll pins. A little blue tape and not a single scratch anywhere. Didn't have to buy any tools "that I'd probably never use again " to assemble.I used what I had laying around to put the $300 PSA kit together.
Wound up with quite a bit more over the years.
Having specific tools makes things go so much smoother.
Looks like you are off to a good start. Be sure to clean the barrel and lube everything well before shooting. Some ARs like to be shot wet and some will tolerate a little less lube. Err on the side of caution and lube it well. Don't try to ride the charging handle forward. Pull it back till it stops, and let it fly forward on its own spring tension. Make sure you have 0 (ZERO) left over parts. They breed like wildfire and next thing you know, you have another rifle built out of spare or leftover parts. It happens quickly and easily! If you decide to tinker further, I would recommend you get an armorers wrench and a set of dedicated roll pin punches.
OP
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tws3b2
Member
I did have a extra spring and detent left over. I likes spare parts. Enough of em and can I build another gun.
PSA puts those in the kits. I’ve built three lowers with their kits, but I only have one spring and detent left over.
I have a stock left over from when I swapped my DMR to a fixed stock. I’m waiting for it to grow into a 450 Bushmaster rifle. Might require some fertilizer on my part.
I have a stock left over from when I swapped my DMR to a fixed stock. I’m waiting for it to grow into a 450 Bushmaster rifle. Might require some fertilizer on my part.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I don't know how good the wrench is but CDNN has a tool kit with armorer's wrench, sight tool and receiver blocks for $30.
www.cdnnsports.com
AR15 ARMORERS 4 PIECE TOOL KIT WITH SUPER TOOL
AR15 ARMORERS 4 PIECE TOOL KIT WITH SUPER TOOL
www.cdnnsports.com
That's plenty enough to build another rifle around.
As long as you get the kits I’ve not had any trouble but I went to PSA three times to get odd bits and they only had the bit I needed once. That’s the only gripe I’ve had with them.
Bolt release: check
Bolt release roll pin: check
Bolt release plunger: check
Bolt release spring: haven’t seen one yet
Crush washer took two trips. That’s mostly my fault as I didn’t order it when I ordered the birdcage but still.
Bolt release: check
Bolt release roll pin: check
Bolt release plunger: check
Bolt release spring: haven’t seen one yet
Crush washer took two trips. That’s mostly my fault as I didn’t order it when I ordered the birdcage but still.
