New Swede Questions

There were different woods used--and there was generally no effort made to match for color. Could be a different kind of wood or just two pieces that took the finish differently.

There are different stock disks, but the most common one is read like this.

The section with the '1', '2' , and '3' gives the armorer's determination of the condition of the bore at last test. No marks means the barrel was new at last check. '1' is the next best condition and it goes down from there. Theoretically you should never see a '3' because the barrel should be replaced at that point and a new disk installed. I have seen some '3's though and the guns seem to shoot just fine. The Swedes were VERY picky about these guns and what is unacceptable to them is really still top condition.

The largest section of the disk is the bore diameter in mm. You can probably figure it out from that information. Basically there are two rows that give the first few digits of the bore diameter and then the final digit is marked. The last section of the disk isn't typically marked with anything. I think it had some kind of hold-over information from when they switched from 160gr round nose ammo to 140gr spitzer. I've never seen one that had anything marked in it.

different woods/finishes

Some swedes came with beech stocks, some walnut, and perhaps other woods were used as well. Chances are good that the handguard on your gun was switched out at some point due to damage to the original, or it is possible that stock components were mix-and-match. You should be able to tell the species from the grain in the wood.

I may have a leftover walnut handguard from a project gun. Can't remember if they're numbered, but I suspect they were not. Let me know if you're looking for one and I'll check my stock stack.

jefnvk,

The range of bore diameters is probably chosen to include all the possible options (maybe all of the possible IN-SPEC options). I've never seen one tighter than 6.49mm. In fact, both of my Swedes show no marks on the condition section (meaning brand new barrels) and bores of 6.49mm.

BTW, if you look around you can get a flash hider or a threaded cap to cover the muzzle threads. The flash hider is a little funny looking on a long bolt rifle to my eyes, but you might like it. The muzzle caps are a bit smaller than the barrel outside diameter so you can spot them, but they look a good deal better than the bare threads or the plastic ring put there to protect the threads by the Swedes.

There are also original sight hoods made to fit the front sight, and for around $30 or so you can get a bayonet to fit the rifle.

The rear sight is probably only marked down to 300meters. That means it will shoot about 11" high with the military ammo at 100 yards with the rear sight at the lowest setting. There are higher front sights available from various sources. Drive out the old one and put in the new one. Then you can file it down at the range to get the gun shooting to point of aim at 100 yards if that's what you want.

Take your time when you benchrest the gun. If you have the eyes and the technique, I'll bet it will shoot 3 shots into less than an inch using the military surplus ammo.