Marlin 60 takedown.

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hckr2000, make sure the chamber face, where the bolt slams against, is free of crud. both of those claws, have little spaces that they must fit into, on that chamber face, or they will not recess in far enough to grab out the old case.
 
does anyone have a complete picture of total tear down of the firing mechinsum of a marlin model 60 , rifle
 
As one who has revived three M60s with worn-out feed throats,
let me say you do not want to totally tear down the Marlin M60
fire control/feed group unless absolutely necessary to replace worn or
broken parts. That said, the Marlin manual shows an illustration
with the parts list and Gun Parts Corp. (numrich) catalog illustrates
several variations (as the M60 evolved over the years).

The firing mechanism can be adequately cleaned as a complete
unit when removed from the action with toothbrush and Q-tips.
I am not trying to be unhelpful: I am trying to save from the
ordeals I went through.
 
I hope someone can answer a question I have.

First off, I have to join in the praise of this thread. Thanks P95!

My bolt is real "sandy" feeling, rough, you all know what I'm talking about.

I just can't get the little split pin out - the one that "retains the trigger group".

I have soaked it for a while with Powderblast, taken a bit and a rubber mallet to it (somewhat gently, of course), and it doesn't seem to budge! I want to get that bolt smooth. It's driving me nuts! Any advice? (or just a link to a post about this? I skimmed through the prior posts in this thread, but I'm at work so I was in a hurry) I don't know what I would search for in the forum for such a specific problem either.

Even at this stopping point, though, I feel like I'm getting so much crud out of there. But I'd like to get the bolt good and clean.

Thanks again - Josh
 
Josh - are you meaning the plastic split pin at the rear, per pic #3? It should remove easily - and a pair of needle nose pliers to close it slightly should result in it being able to move across and out.

As has been said by Carl ..... keep the trigger group itself intact - it is not a fun thing to have to reassemble!

If possible post a wee pic to make it clear you are talking about the pin I think you mean.

As for ''sandy feeling'' - oh yes, that is very much the feel when the infamous .22 crud accumulates ....... a good reason for not over-lubing.
 
Yeah, it's the pin that's in picture 3, that has been removed, dropping the trigger group. Needle nose pliers are a good idea.. this doesn't seem to budge, though, but that's another option.

I can get a photo later on tonight when I get home from work if needed. Also, I wasn't planning on taking the trigger group down, haha. That's waaay too intimidating.

It'll be nice to get the bolt smooth again. I've had this for 7 years or so, and it's never been taken down.
 
Hey thanks for putting together this great tutorial! It's helped me with disassembly of a M-90.

On the Eezox question...I use it on about everything I own. Don't get it on the bolt buffer but do put it everywhere else. The great thing about dry lubes is they don't attract/hold blow-by, so cleaning is simpler. They also are about as slippery as oil. The smell goes away after a bit. I quit trying lubes after I found Eezox, but I've tried a bunch and they don't stack up, IMHO.

Thanks to you all, who have contributed to this great thread.
 
for the split pin, mine was stiff at first, but I squeezed it with pliers and was able to get it out. Now I can pop it out with my hands, and it locks shut when I put it back in. Pliers are the answer.
 
Any suggestions on getting the bolt spring back in?

Main thing I find is compressing the spring over guide rod far enough that it goes cleanly into recess in bolt - this is down to controlled pressure while trying to keep good alignment. If careless the spring can bend or kink before guide rod providing the necessary rigidity.

Could be, a pair of tweezers can help with alignment as spring being compressed - keeping the area where it wants to kink from being able to do so too much. This is one of those operations where a bit of practice makes it easier.
 
Can't pull trigger back

Thanks for all of the helpful information on this thread. I do have a question relating to the Marlin 700. As I understand it, this model is basically the 60 but with a clip feed and was made especially for Big 5 sporting goods.

Anyway, my problem is that when I shoot it, it's not a few a rounds later and I can't pull the trigger back. It doesn't engage the rest of the mechanism to fire the round. The rounds load up fine, but I can't get it to fire off. Just wondering if anyone can help. Thanks.
 
Glenfield Marlin mod 75 Trigger

I just picked up a Glenfield Marlin mod 75, for $65 from my local gunshop. The gunny there just installed a new style feed throat in it and it shoots just fine. I put a BSA 3X32 scope on it and I can get decent enough groupings at 50 yards to kill them peskey tree rats. I have only had 1 feed problem while using federal 22 bullets. The CCI stingers and Winchester bullets work wonderfully in it.

The only problem that I have is that the trigger has so much slop in it. Is there anything I can do to reduce the amount of play in the trigger? And or over travel? Short of buying something new and shiny? Which ain't an option.

Thanks this thread is awesome BTW.
 
Well, another new Model 60 owner, another act of thread necromancy!

I took my recently acquired new-looking Model 60 to the range on Sunday, even though I didn't expect to shoot it. Despite having his pick from a couple of different AR's and a couple of different modified SKS's, my shooting companions son kept gravitating back towards the Model 60. In no time he was putting every round in one long hole (looked like a map of Italy, about 2" long) with an unzeroed 4x scope at 50 yards with rapid fire :)

It's now zeroed, so I figured I'd clean it even though it functions fine. I scrubbed off enough carbon and grit to gunk up a lesser rifle and now my bolt release makes the bolt snap forward instead of hitching forward like a sick horse!

Thanks for the guide and all the additional info since posted, you made it a LOT easier!
 
NC_Brit,

Addictive little rifles, aren't they?

www.rimfirecentral.com is a good place for Marlin info and has a Marlin 60 club. ArrowDodger put together a similar powerpoint presentation. It's really handy because it automatically comes up full screen so the parts look 'bout life size. The technique/description is a little different which helps in spots.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197703

Between this thread & RFC it was pretty easy to tear down and refurbish an M60 over the holidays.
 
Thanks P95carry. My local pawnshop had a Glenfield Model 60 for 57.50 (75 0ut the door). The owner kindly warned me of failure of the plastic buffer. Google led me here. If bought the rifle today, fired off a quick (and flawless) fourteen rounds then took it apart by your instructions and cleaned out lots of junk. It was a breeze thanks to you.
 
FINALLY someone posts some pic I have never tried to take mine apart due to my friends horror story when he took his apart pieces went every where and it took him days to get it back together again. It really doesn't look that hard I figured it took a room full of rocket scientists to take these @#%^&*! things apart. Not that they would ever NEED to be taken apart and cleaned:D
 
Wow, I wish I had the push-pins in my Marlin 60. I have to take out four screws to remove the trigger group as it's 1971 manufactured. :mad::cuss::banghead::(
 
Does anyone know if the same instructions apply to a Model 70PSS?

For one thing there are only 2 screws near the trigger guard. Any problems removing them both (no springs become unsprung or other potential disasters)?

After removing screws will action separate and disassemble like the Mdl. 60? No way I'm touching or removing anything unless I know for sure! :uhoh:
 
popular .22's told me not to!!!!

i collect old gun magazines and one i have, popular .22's told me not to take it apart as they had to pay a gunsmith to put it back together. is there any other way to clean it without taking it apart?
 
It's not hard to put back together at all as long as you don't take the trigger pack apart.

you don't need to take the trigger pack apart anyway, an old toothbrush can reach into all the crevasses just fine.
 
haha Cleaning without taking it apart

I took the gun down but left the trigger pack together and cleaned it real good.
Everything was goin real ggod until my rag snagged a spring and bong bang boom.
i was so mad at myself. But thanks to these pages I easily put the springs back in and everthing worked out great.
 
When my Marlin 60 started to jam up after shooting about a zillion rounds thru it during the 20 or 25 years that i've owned it , I used this http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm to help with the take down. There was a huge hunk of lead on the top side of the feed ramp that had built up after of those years of use with just normal cleaning. Runs good now!
 
True. I can't believe I was avoiding it for so long. Good thing this thread was here to demystify "taking apart a Marlin 60." Anyone could do it.
 
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