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Model 10, Go New or Used?

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Could someone enlighten me on the dash markings, such as 10-3, 10-5, 10-7? Are these just different year/runs, or slightly different models? Does anyone have a year of manufacture guide (just approximate), i.e. 10-5's are 1970's manufacture, 10-7's are 1980's, etc. ?
 
Dash numbers are production/engineering change designators. This is a few years out of date, but here's a sample;

From http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp
Model and Dash numbering system
--------------------------------
Model 10
-1 1959 Heavy Barrel
-2 1961 Changed extractor rod thread to LH on standard barrel
-3 1961 Same as above, for heavy barrel
-4 1962 Screw in front of trigger eliminated
-5 1962 1/10" to 1/8" front sight, on standard barrel
-5 1962 Screw in front of trigger guard eliminated on
heavy barrel model
-7 1977 Change to put gas ring from yoke to cylinder
-8 1977 Change to put gas ring from yoke to cylinder
on heavy barrel model
 
I have a 1971 vintage 10-6 that I bought for $150. The bluing is half gone but it has the nicest trigger I ever felt. Next to my 5946 it's the gun I shoot best with (I practice more with my service weapon for obvious reasons). I can see no valid reason for buying a new Model 10.
 
I would like to find the place where the model 10's are cheap and plentiful. I have yet to see one under $450.00. I am beginning to beleive it is an urban legend. And I checked your "CHEAP" JGS sales and they didn't have one for under $475.00. I just get so tired of chasing rainbows.
 
O.k. everybody, what's the consensus on accuracy? Are the older used M10's more accurate, or the newer ones? Of course every gun is different, and it depends on the condition, but on average, all things being equal, etc. what do you think? And how do they compare to an equivalent Taurus? By the way, where's the best place online to look for used M10's? You've really piqued my interest.

My 60s era will put 'em into 1.5" at 25 yards off bags if it likes the load. That was true of the pencil barrel and that's true of the heavy barrel. Both barrels are 4". Most serious PPC revolvers are based on the model 10 or at least the K frame, well, that was true back when I followed such things and new guns still had pinned barrels. Now, I don't know about the new ones, but the old ones are GREAT! :D
 
Anyone know of any online souces for model 10's? I checked Gunbroker.com. Any other souces?
 
I have a nice older Model 10. I would like to find a build date for it. Can anyone tell me how to find info on a model 10 serial #C534xxx?
 
+1 on the used.

Most have been carried very little and shot even less.

Some are practically new guns.
 
I've found a couple of older model 10's at a store about 45 minutes away, didn't pick them up, just glared at them through the display case, but they have the half-moon type front sights on them, from $350 to $200. Need to go take another closer look at them.
 
Used. Check R.M. Vivas' site for NY area police trade-ins. They show lots of finish wear and the RH stocks are pretty beat, but the prices ranged from $150-$175 a while back. Bores, chambers, and internals were excellent and they have lots of miles left in them.

They are still the deal of the century.

Not to mention I would rather have one with a good load in preference to a soul-less Glock any day.
 
I have yet to see one under $450.00. I am beginning to beleive it is an urban legend.

Holy Crap!!! Around here you could get a model 29 for that kind of money! I've never seen a model 10 go for much over $200 here in Indiana! I bought a 6" five screw M&P about a year ago for $200. I still see plain jane ones at gunshows for $150 occasionally!
 
I have to agree with "Holy Crap!!!" above. I recently bought a mint Model 12 Airweight Snubbie for lots less than $450 (it's just too pretty to carry!). NICE Model 10 varieties show up around here regularly for $250-300.
 
Holy Crap!!! Around here you could get a model 29 for that kind of money! I've never seen a model 10 go for much over $200 here in Indiana! I bought a 6" five screw M&P about a year ago for $200. I still see plain jane ones at gunshows for $150 occasionally!

I have to agree with "Holy Crap!!!" above. I recently bought a mint Model 12 Airweight Snubbie for lots less than $450 (it's just too pretty to carry!). NICE Model 10 varieties show up around here regularly for $250-300.

Weren't for legalities, sounds like I could make a good living buying in the midwest for 200 bucks every model 10 I could find and bring 'em to Texas and selling for 3-400 bucks. :D
 
Used

I recomend used bought this one all banged up for $115. A couple of parts later and she has the action of a prom queen. It's a 10-4 3" by the way kinda hard to find.
 

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I LOVE my old Model 10. Paid a whole $175 for her from Century Arms earlier this year. Looks like hell but locks up tight and shoot great, function is 100%.

Added an equally worn pair of grips, holster and Tyler T grip....going for the well worn vintage look.

vintagecarry.jpg
 
I would buy a used model 10. Up until the 10-11 variant, thats when S&W started to cheapen them up........er, I mean get innovative :rolleyes:

I do not consider the current production revolvers, in fact those made since 2003, to be real S&W's. They are, in my opinion, Safety-Wessons.
 
I'd buy used as well... it just would never dawn on me to pick up a new Smith with that lock, and the horrible hole in the side. :(

Maybe... MAYBE for a new Smith if there is no older version... (nawww) but certainly not for an old, long-time standard like the Model 10. And you can count me with the group who would pay MORE for a nice older, used specimen.
 
I would go with a "vintage" one as well. I have a few newer S&Ws with the lock. Unfortunately, I often have a nagging little voice that says what if the lock fails when I really need to use the gun? Because of this, I tend to shy away from carrying my newer S&Ws. I have no qualms with rendering the lock inoperable--just haven't gotten around to it.
 
Extractor Rod Thread

Model 10, rugged little piece. I'd go used if I didn't already have a used one.

I have an issue with the extractor rod thread, though. The pre-1961s used to have an extractor rod that could loosen up when the cylinder turned.

"-2 1961 Changed extractor rod thread to LH on standard barrel"

I'd go post-1961 for this reason. I had a problem w/guide and rod - rod kept loosening up, guide was a little warped. Can't easily get replacement parts. Beat to fit, paint to match. There was a reason S&W changed the thread direction to self-tightening.
 
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I made it back to the store and picked up the used 10's they had available, they even had an older 6" barreled version for sale. I put a nice 10-6 version on hold, has the wood grips, square framed handle with thin 4" barrel and half-moon front sight. It also has the firing-pin attached to the hammer rather than on the frame. Would this version be +P rated? It definitely has class to it, simple and well-built. The sticker price is at $350, haven't tried to haggle on it yet though. It's probably at 90% condition.
 
amprecon,
Unless I'm mistaken, a Model 10-6 would be a heavy barrel, with a ramp sight like aaronkelly's revolver pictured above. It would be +P rated, but expect accelerated wear with constant use of +P.
 
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