AR15 - accuracy improved - simple and cheap

Freefloating the barrel is one of the easiest accuracy enhancements to the AR-15, and has well known for years. Make sure you tale the sling swivel of the gas block too, lest you put pressure on the barrel when slinging up.

Best way?

Guntech,

How long ago did you eat the freefloaters brain?

But seriously, I'd like my BM20" a little more accurate too. I've got an HBAR target upper that I'd like to scope & freefloating it makes sense.

What's the best way or best reference link on how to do this? Is it as simple as buying a Varminter handguard & installing it?

Suggestions on a good bench sling?

BM says their rifle isn't as accurate with a flash suppressor as with a DCM crown. Sensible, but can you get partway there by removing the flash suppressor?

Thanks.

BM says their rifle isn't as accurate with a flash suppressor as with a DCM crown. Sensible, but can you get partway there by removing the flash suppressor?

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At 2.5" MOA, something was not right with the gun. I've had 5 AR15 uppers, two with bare barrels, two with flash hiders, one with a muzzle brake and of those, two that I converted to muzzle brakes. At no time did any shoot worse than a 1.5 MOA and 3 were sub MOA.

Freefloating the barrel is one of the easiest accuracy enhancements to the AR-15

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Don't discount the better trigger. In fact I recommend a better trigger as the first step in accuracy mods. The RRA NM trigger makes a huge improvement over the basic AR triggers. Makes it much less likely to pull your shots.

Don't discount the better trigger. In fact I recommend a better trigger as the first step in accuracy mods. The RRA NM trigger makes a huge improvement over the basic AR triggers. Makes it much less likely to pull your shots.

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I just had a RRA two stage trigger (with it sweetend up a bit) installed in my Bushmaster XM15 with 20 in barrel, it made a big difference. after the trigger I was hitting sub 1" to 1 and a half inch groups at 100 yards.

My tigger was so heavy stock I had a hard time shooting it accuately.

Trigger question

Okay, done some homework, read the "basic accuracy question about ARs" thread.

1. Good trigger
2. Good ammo
3. Technique, technique, technique.

Then go for the freefloat & further tweaks.

I had been wondering what to do with my left hand, hadn't found a suitable answer. My old NRA book says to put it under the handgrip! (field expedient, but sheesh...)

As for triggers:
Before I buy 2 new triggers (gotta get one for the Bushmistress, too), what about having "my" gunsmith stone the BM trigger? Or is that like tuning up a Honda & hoping it'll run like a Mustang?

(My 'smith is a bit twitchy about AR trigger replacements since he bought a high end trigger & it made his AR-10 less accurate. His trigger job on my 1911A1 is an eyebrow raiser, the good kind.)

I like a relatively heavy trigger. For me, these are weapons meant for high adrenaline. I've got other firearms for the purely target stuff.

Thanks again!

I slicked up the factory AR trigger myself.
Cost me ten bucks for a decent sharpening stone. Polished with JB's bore paste for a mirror finish.
Added a free float tube.

Stock govt profile CMMG upper/Stag lower.


I shot a few more like this one. This was the best.


Not much money invested over the cost of the stock upper.
Most of the cost was time getting my handloads right and tons of dry fire practice.

ZM

I notice that the original poster and many posters mention their 100yd groups; but leave out a lot of relevant data.

Discussing your hundred yard groups isn't a very reliable indicator of inherent accuracy unless you also add the number of rounds fired per group and the type of ammo used. It is also helpful to mention the position used to shoot those groups (standing, kneeling, sitting, prone, benched, etc.)

I shot quite a few 1.5" groups with surplus military ammo and a stock Bushmaster barrel at 100yds... of course they were all three round groups and for some strange reason, no matter what I tried the groups would open up when I tried to do 5 or 10rd groups.

By the way, I'm not into the look of space guns and the mine has to look original, that's why I choose the CMP freefloat tube.

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The CMP float tubes do look cool and subtle with the original type handguards over them. But man, they are heavy. The spacegun/varmint tubes are often aluminum and weigh much less. Some railed tubes weigh even less than the solid alloy tubes due to the large cooling holes. There are even some ultralight kevlar tubes.

My carbon fiber tube weighs in at six ounces.



ZM

FF tube, good ammo, decent trigger all help immensely. That is, if you have the skill.


Easily takes an inch off the groups. That's a huge improvement.


Then again, you could have just bought one of those $230 .223 Saigas that shoot MOA instead of wasting all that money on a NM AR-15.