Savage extractor = garbage.

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Tarvis

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Ok, now that I got all the savage guys to look :evil::neener:, I'm having a problem with the extractor on my Model 12 LRPV 22-250. I can get it to actually extract about 5% of the time. I wasn't sure if this was supposed to happen, then a friend of mine was having trouble with his mod 110 in 223.

Anyone know what could be going on, weather I need a different extractor spring or what?
 
Contact Savage and they will send you out a new extractor. There was a batch of soft/bad extractors. The new one fixed my problems with the 22-250.
 
Wow! What a surprise not much to add from the Savage lovers on this site? I thought they were flawless guns from what I've read here.
 
they are. arnt they??? never a problem with any of mine.....

totaly customizable from at home, plenty of aftermarket parts, swicth barrel capabilitys due to barrel nut allowing an unending possibilitys between cartridges, and you dont even need a lathe!!

not for everybody, but i like em...
 
Wow! What a surprise not much to add from the Savage lovers on this site? I thought they were flawless guns from what I've read here.

Isn't there an age requirement to join?
 
Savage is not flawless. I have a Savage .22 and a .22 magnum, my son has a Savage .22 autoloader and a Savage 110 .308. They are good guns especially considering price.

Savage .22 singleshots in the 1960s had a run of over-tempered extractors that broke.

Occasionally a Marlin 336 extractor will fail due to heat treatment problems.

The replacement Savage or Marlin extractors are usually perfect. (repair parts from Marlin or Savage seem to be better vetted and more expensive than the production parts).

Unfortunately with small spring steel parts it takes use for a bad production part to show up.

I had a Mauser extractor break on me. Nobody is perfckt.
 
Savages are excellent guns, however nobody is perfect. Considering the price point of most savage products, the surprising thing is not that they are not perfect, but that they have as few problems as they do.
 
totaly customizable from at home
It seems to me that you'd have a hard time getting an extremely accurate rifle when you remove and replace the barrel without having a proper torque wench or any skill/experience in doing a barrel job. I may be wrong, but I don't think you can get a match grade rifle at home with a $10 strap wrench.

Anyhow, I think I'll take the bolt apart and scrub the crap out of it and see if that changes anything. If not I'll call savage.
 
several companies make wrenches designed specifically for the savage action. A go-gauge or fired cartridge from the same gun is also required. My Savage 110 in 270 win prints under .5 MOA, and I've rebarreled it with a barrel nut wrench, a padded scescent wrench, and a set of go/no-go gauges. Maybe not match-grade, but I'm not a match-grade shooter, so I don't care.
 
It seems to me that you'd have a hard time getting an extremely accurate rifle when you remove and replace the barrel without having a proper torque wench or any skill/experience in doing a barrel job. I may be wrong, but I don't think you can get a match grade rifle at home with a $10 strap wrench.

If that's all you have at home, I agree. Then again, most of us know how to order from a Brownell's or Midway catalog. Why you have such a bent for insulting statements is beyond me, but it sure sounds like somebody's TROLLING for an argument.

Savage construction makes barrel changes, and attendant head-spacing, much more easy than other brands. Tools to do this are readily available, fairly inexpensive, and the job is easily within the reach of mechanically competent people. :)
 
Why you have such a bent for insulting statements is beyond me, but it sure sounds like somebody's TROLLING for an argument
I don't have a "bent." I get the feeling that you wouldn't be able to get the barrel on as straight as the factory or a gunsmith could. The $10 wrench is an exaggeration and i don't know if they have savage barrel nut wrenches or what, but I'd be impressed if you could remove the barrel and replace it without making groups get bigger.
 
Only thing I can think of is what about Early 90's Remington 700 barrel quality control issues...... Every manufacturer has had a bad batch or 2 That post about "I thought savage was flawless" Is full of flaws itself.
 
I get the feeling that you wouldn't be able to get the barrel on as straight as the factory or a gunsmith could.

What do you think a gunsmith is gonna do? He's gonna unscrew the old bbl and screw a new one in. It's not like your gunsmith has a supply of magic accuracy fairy dust that makes his action of screwing in a bbl better than yours.

The $10 wrench is an exaggeration and i don't know if they have savage barrel nut wrenches or what, but I'd be impressed if you could remove the barrel and replace it without making groups get bigger.

Just by changing out barrels MYSELF using only a $20 savage wrench and a crescent my groups went from half MOA to .2 and .3 MOA.

If you can't handle screwing in a barrel and tightening a locknut I would suggest you let quick/lube handle all your oil changes.
 
The line "I thought savage was flawless" comes from the guys that claim every savage is bench rest accurate out of the box. It is an exaggeration and meant to poke fun at the same guys that shoot BSA and Tasco scopes and think the only thing you are buying with expensive scopes is better adjustments.

If you can't handle screwing in a barrel and tightening a locknut I would suggest you let quick/lube handle all your oil changes.
I guess i should let other people think for me too, huh.
 
Barrels aren't built crooked, and put on straight. But I put the one on that did this in less than 30 minutes. In my garage.

DSCN0464(300x225).png

Call Savage, they'll send you a new ejector, and it takes about 5 minutes to install. If that doesn't work, check on Savageshooters.com.
 
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