Double tapping Striker-fired pistols

At the range or someplace safe, make sure the gun is empty. NO MAG and NO ROUND IN THE CHAMBER. Dry fire it and hold the trigger down. Next cycle the action while holding down the trigger. Slowly release the trigger until it clicks. This is the sear point or all the further the trigger has to be let off to re fire.

I am guessing this point is no where near where the trigger rests. Bear in mind also its not a double tap but two placed shots fired very closely together. With practice one can fire those two shots just off the sear very quickly.

Hope that made sense and helped.

If his m&p has a magazine disconnect safety then he will have to have the mag inserted in the firearm before he tries your test.

That is exactly it.

Next time at the range, shoot slowly and concentrate on releasing the trigger just enough to reset it. Don't allow the trigger to go fully forward. Do that 50 times, every time you go to the range.

Couple that with a proper draw, sight alignment, and dot drills and you're off to an excellent training session.

From what you said, you have a lot of trigger creep. A good gunsmith ought to be able to lessen that for you, and I'd guess that would help some.

It's not trigger creep. it's pe travel. It's a long pull "safe action" style gun.

Yes, you can get a trigger job that takes out the pretravel, but I wouldn't do it for anything other than a competition gun or one of the SKUs with a thumb safety.

In a stock M&P, trigger pull has basically 3 phases.. pretravel, pretravel with the firing pin safety plunger engaged, and pulling through the sear. On most M&Ps, the sear doesn't have too much creep, but they are all worse than a properly prepped sear that has been polished. It can also be aggravated by a poorly finished face on the striker leg. Out of 4 strikers i have, three came badly prepped and had some machining marks in the face, and made even a decent trigger job feel creepy towards the end.

As for fast double taps (why double tap when you can practice and get a sight picture for every shot just as fast), riding the reset is fastest, but you can get 99% of the way there simply avoiding slapping the trigger. When I switched form shooting a 1911 in USPSA to shooting an M&P, I had to learn to stop slapping the trigger (not for speed, but because on a heavy 1911 with a light 3lb trigger, it didn't disrupt my sight picture nearly as badly as on a light polymer gun wtih a 6lb trigger, and even it's now 3.5lb trigger). Even when slapping the trigger, splits in the .2x range were qutie doable as long as they were under 10 yards and i didn't need a good sight picture to get As.

Both Bowie tactical concepts and Burwell gunsmithing can take out most of the pre travel and get the tgrigger to break in the 4.5 -5 lb range Dan Burwell's website also had a diy for the trigger job if your so inclined. ajb

I am going to guess here that you are "thinking" about competition. If your thinking about shooting USPSA in prodution...I could be wrong without checking the rule book. You have to have a stock gun which means no trigger job, stock sights, etc.

Save your money and put in in ammo, lots of it. Go to the range and practice lots of practice. Buy the targets and set up your own stage and shoot it. I set up the classifier and shoot it with a timer over and over. excluding match day I was/am shooting 200 rounds a week in practice.

Just work on the sear point relax and have fun that is really what its all about.

So What are you calling it? Creep or PreTravel?

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Neither - your concern is Reset. It is the forward movement after firing until it will fire again (not necessarily all the way forward to the where the trigger rests without your finger on it), as you stated. As for a trigger job - in my opinion you can adapt to any reasonable reset (assuming you you like the gun otherwise) but if the release is inconsistent you'll have trouble. Heavy, light, crisp, creep, ... as long as it is the same every time you can make it work. If it is gritty and inconsistent you won't be consistent. I don't have many rounds through an M&P but others have said that just shooting them will smooth out the trigger pull.

So, as Mt Shooter said, practice a lot. It will make you and the gun better.

The simple answer to your problem is to determine where the reset point is and then to put live rounds down range. Both games require a lot of trigger time to become proficient and that is the simple truth.

Don't make the mistake I made, I shoot L-10, I got in a squad with several open gunners in it. I tried to keep up with them. It cant be done, just shoot at your own pace.

Shoot the targets not at them, and practice practice practice. Practice your draw, dry fire, and mag changes when not at the range.

To heck with the splits, get the hits.

'Splits' means the time on the clock.
'Hits' means your score on the target.

Focus on hitting Alphas and steel. Don't worry about the time. After you get truly proficient, you start working on your times. If you learn to rush too fast you'll never become proficient at shooting, you'll just get proficient at rushing.

Save up your money for ammo. It's going to take a lot of shooting.

Trade it in on an XD with a Powder River Precision OT stop & Basic Safety Lever kit installed.

If your thinking about shooting USPSA in prodution...I could be wrong without checking the rule book. You have to have a stock gun which means no trigger job, stock sights, etc.

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Not so, there are plenty of things you can't do in production (or in IDPA). Trigger work is allowed in both tho.

I've heard some call for minimum trigger pull weights, but doubt that would happen in my lifetime (tho, I agree it's a good concept).