Marlin 60 takedown.

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Chris - thanks very much for this. When I was 16, I could just about do this blindfolded since I stripped and cleaned my 60 almost every time I shot it (first gun + OCD??). After 20 years in my brother's closet / safe, I'm going to be getting my old 60 back this Christmas, and I'm looking forward to bringing it back to it fine working order with what I'm (re-)learning here. Gracias!

Craig
 
I love my little marlin 60. It took me a few tries before I realized I needed to close the action to take it apart, but other than that it's dirt simple. It was just 60 bucks at the pawn shop around the corner, where some dummy tried to load a .22 mag in there and jammed it up so they got rid of it- their loss my gain!
 
Hi,
My late dad has a Marlin Glenfield Mod 60 sold to him by a late uncle. Upon seeing this thread I thought about disassembling his rifle for a general cleaning and I notice a couple of difference on the internals of my dads marlin.

First thing I notice, On the first step to take out the trigger group, it says the plastic split pin that retains the trigger group. My dad's is not made of plastic, its a hollow metal that has a screw at the other end.

The second thig I notice, the front of the trigger group where the instruction says
" to disengage its location. Note two small arrows ...... the right hand one points to engagement cross pin .. the left points to step at front of trigger group which goes over this pin"

Again on my dads trigger group, theres no cross pins but two screws on each side.

And last but not least, the trigger group shown on the pics 1/3/4 has this J like metal sticking out in the middle of the trigger group. My dads don't have it.

Am I looking at a different marlin mod 60 or is my dads rifle modified?

I also notice hammer (I think its the hammer) has a broken ear (the top part is U shape and the other side is broken. Although it does not look like it will interfere on the rifles mechanism, is it safe to fire this rifle once I'm done cleaning it? This rifle has never been fired since '95

Thanks for your inputs.
 
There is an early version which is slightly different, than the later version. Some of the pins are different and the later version has a bolt lock (the projecting j-hook). The pictorial is of the later version. Yours is probably the earlier version if it doesn't have the bolt release and uses the screw pins.

I doubt that broken hammer part will affect the way it shoots. You might want a gunsmith to check it out before you shoot it.

Enjoy your Model 60, it's a great little semi-auto.
 
My first Marlin .22 was the direct ancestor of the M60, a Model 99G. As gemini1 pointed out, instead of attaching the action plates to the receiver with the nylon post and two hooks over pins in the receiver, there was a hollow post with a screw and two screws at the front.

The "ears" on the hammer are what the bolt pushes down to cock the hammer. One might be sufficient for the meantime, but I would look to replacing it.

Disassembly of the new Marlin M60 is easier than the early models. M60 has been gradually improved over the years, and Numrich Arms (Gun Parts Corp) offers parts for various versions, and even a retro-fit kit to update old versions.
 
Thank you for the inputs. The rifle has been totally cleaned and lubed. Anyone got any idea if theres a gun store in Northern California that has Marlin parts readily available?

Thanks again.
 
Marlin Glenfield Mod 60

Greetings, great site.
I recently took my old Mod 60 out of mothballs (figuratively speaking) as a need for some small varmit control has become necessary.
Since it doesn't have a scope I set up a target about 25 yrds out to site it in somewhat and after the 1st successful shot, it proceeded to misfire in the next 3 so I decided to take it down for inspection, cleaning and repair. Mine must be an early model as it has a screw and screw sleeve in the actions rear and two screws in the front. This was the 1st time I've ever took it down this far and it was very dirty. I cleaned it up real good and decided not to put any lube in it at that point as thats what seemed to collect the debris. I may go back with a dab or two of whats been recommended here later.
With it torn down everything seemed OK so I put it back together and tried a couple rounds. She fired and ejected fine!
I decided to do a web search on Marlin Mod 60 and found this site and great instructions. Seems I followed the instructions listed in this thread without knowing it :D
I gotta say that putting the long spring and bolt back into the housing was a bit of a chore tho :D
Looks like a simple teardown and cleaning fixed me up.
Theres great info here so I thought I'd add my humble expericence.
PS, what would be a good and "cheap" scope kit to add to a Mod 60?
Thanks
 
I have a Marlin 60 that I haven't touched in probably 20 years. Tonight I decided to break it down and do a good cleaning on it and it was pretty cruddy. I have shot an untold number of rounds through it and it has always worked. Well to my surprise I was able to tear it down, clean it and put it all back together from memory. Then I found this thread. Good job :)
 
marlin 60 barrels

Will a ruger 10/22 barrel fit on a marlin 60.Can you get any bull barrels for it.I heard you cant but a bull barrel on it but there is a lot of room between the barrel and the tube.
 
I never considered that as an option but best I can tell there is no other barrel which would suit. Of course with suitable machining facilities etc and a good barrel blank - pretty much anything ''could'' be done!!

I think it does pretty OK as it is - just a very inexpensive semi .22.
 
I was just given a marlin 60 and its not ejecting the 2 ejecters are grabing the spent round and removing it from the chamber fine ,,,, It looks to me the feed throat is also the ejecter is the right ? mine looks worn so will the new style feed throat work on a old style gun
thanks for the help
 
Really not sure on this - I am not sure of compatibility between newer and much older models, tho I suspect little will have changed.

I think best option might be to try and contact Marlin to get some good tech advice.
 
On the older version, the ejector is a protrusion on the feed throat and it does wear down eventually. On the newer models, the ejector is an extension of the carrier lifter spring, thick tempered spring steel that lasts. There is a retro-fit kit to replace the feed throat and lifter spring available through Gun Parts Corp (Numrich Arms) and probably Marlin's Parts department. It takes a lot of patience to replace a Marlin 60 feed throat.
 
I picked up a older style feed thoat I tried removing the old one by just spreading the one end well that didnt work the whole assembly fell apart WAAAAA :banghead::banghead:

I got it back together but with out the post it never would have happend thanks you made a 9 year old girl happy :D:D
 
Good Thread P95 It would have been nice if I had stumbled across it a while back. I had an old Glenfield version that was jamming. I wound up having to replace the little plastic buffer in the trigger group. I don't think I would have got it back together properly if I hadn't had another model 60 to look at & see how it went.
 
Will a ruger 10/22 barrel fit on a marlin 60.Can you get any bull barrels for it.I heard you cant but a bull barrel on it but there is a lot of room between the barrel and the tube. marlin60

The Marlin barrel with the microgroove riffling is very accurate out of the box. More so than the 1022 on average. I think the reason there aren't many after market parts for the Model 60 is because they got it right from the start, especially at the price point it sells for.
 
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Everyone, the Marlin action is pretty simple if you understand all the fiddly bits inside. It's also very easy to service and detail strip. If you can remove and replace the magazine release on a 1911, you can break your 60/795 etc. all the way down to pins and springs and put it back again.

I took lots of photos and went into a bunch of detail about reworking the trigger, here:

Marlin 60/795 etc. Trigger Job Page
 
i'd like to hear more from hcker and others on what can be done about FTF's.

Where and what to 'sand'? Super-fine grit or even finer? What #?

I will also clean around the bore rim. Did a full action, bolt, & receiver clean the other day and likely did not get around the rim like I should; it does that 'light hammer strike' thing and sometimes will not manually eject an unfired round either (a very frustrating combo). Any other ideas for this problem, or am I on the right track? Thanks!
 
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