The Bullpup, she is finished, finally. I think. Almost

Here she is, after some mods and accessories, which I will list in detail with more pics in subsequent posts. Kinda cool, eh? I'm pumped!

Modifications, by Kurt's Kustom Firearm's in Bushnell, FL:

1. 6x per side, lightening/cooling slots to upper receiver, and make OD green color.
2. Remove carry handle and install long ‘P’ rail on top.
3. Install underrail
3A. Move front sling swivel from underneath to left side of upper receiver.
4. Supply and install custom KKF folding charging handle.
5. Create sliding trapdoor on pistol grip.
6. Supply and install "A2 TacBrake" (muzzle brake)
7. Install point of attachment for AR/M16 style front sight.
8. Install left side rail, for miscellaneous (red dot, flashlight, etc.)

Accessories:

1. Ashley Outdoors P rail rear peep, installed for storage on underrail, for use in case scope goes Tango Uniform.
2. Trijicon Accupoint TR21 1.25-4x24 No-battery-IR scope
3. Weaver rings and teeny bikini (not shown)
4. Surefire torch, with mount, on underrail.
5. Forward pistol grip, on underrail.
6. ATN Ultra Sight red dot, left side, for close targets. This is optional - haven't decided whether worth it to keep it there yet.

What is not shown since I don't have it yet, is the front sight (backup) for use with the Ashley rear peep - anyone have any suggestions for a front post of this height? Particulary one that would fit in the handle storage area? Thanks

Also...

And...

Finally, a close-up of the sliding trapdoor (oooooooh......aaaaaaaah).

And yes, it's low, but it's just about right for the low weld I prefer - those are, believe it or not, "high" Weaver rings (which are about the same height or lower than Millett "medium").

Thanks. Yes it's a Bushmaster M17 Bullpup.

The idea behind the red dot on the side (lol - no, no eyes in the chin) - is that - let's say I zero the rifle for 200 yards, for a nice reasonable PBR. Well, PBR notwithstanding, it's still going to shoot at least 2.5" or more LOW at very short ranges (however much higher the scope's center line is above the barrel's center line). So, the idea of the red dot is to use ONLY to hose short-range targets - 20 yards or less, let's say, and have the red dot zeroed at 10-15 yards, let's say (when the rifle is turned 90 degrees to the right to fire), and one can easily acquire the red dot when the rifle is turned with a check weld on the bottom of the "buttplate" area, rather than the side. This way you don't have to worry about holding high with the scope at very short ranges for a DEAD-center hit - just point and click - ALWAYS - no thinkin' required. The scope is for all other ranges 20-30 yards + (short, medium, and long - just not very short ranges). Essentially what it does is, with the scope and red dot combined, change you from having a "5 inch-target-size" PBR (+ - 2.5") from zero to 225 yards - to a "3-inch-target-size" PBR (+ - 1.5"), from zero to 225 yards (approx.), with a 200 yard scope zero and 10 yard red dot zero - see what I mean? (this assumes about 3000 fps .223 bullet). Couldn't put the rail on the right, or I'd get brass in the face when the gun is turned horizontally. Utility of the red dot idea remains to be seen. It may very well be much easier (and lighter weight) to simply train for a smidge high hold at very short ranges. Easy to do in theory - the question is - will I/you do it second nature when the pressure is on? I just put all the potential gunk on it for the pic. If I scrap the red dot, then flashlight will go on the side, with forward pistol grip moved further forward. But I kinda like the flashlight where it is, though, since I can activiate the push-on with the index finger knuckle of my left (forward) hand. [BTW, in any event, once you're past the far point of the PBR, you must of course hold appropriately high.]

Actually, if you are interested, I plan on going with a 189 yard zero, giving me a 217 yard, 3"-target PBR (+ - 1.5") with a 62 gr .223 bullet doing 3,000 fps at muzzle).

Barrel length is 21.5", with a shorter OAL than a 16"-bbl'ed AR.

Man am I pumped. Ready for some 3-gun. Well, not skill-wise, just equipment-wise.

On the trigger, it was absolutely abysmally horrid when I got it. Gunsmith worked on it - now it's a nice clean 7-8 pounds, approx. Actually he went a little too far at first, and the gun was double-tapping or triple-tapping sometimes (Grrr), but I *think* that's fixed now that some more jerry-rigging work it has been done - we'll see - if it's not, I'll have to just get a new sear. Doh. Well, it will be just right someday..... So yes, it's easy to fix just by filing down the sear. Back up a sec - I say "easy", but come to think of it, my gunsmith said that taking apart the fire control group was a **** (rhymes with itch), because the plate on the side of the rifle is melted/welded on, and it must be removed to take the thing apart. You could, with a little finess and patience, however, file down the fire control parts without taking the thing apart. So that would not be difficult. I'd do more lubing and less filing if I were you, because this fire control mechanism relies on the front two teeth of the sear to catch the hammer on the way back "up" from when you release the trigger from it's rearward position, where the hammer is held in place with the rear teeth of the sear. So, if you go too far, the hammer will make an additional trip forward (or two) resulting in double or triple tap while the trigger is making its way to reset before the front two teeth of the sear once again catch the hammer at forward reset. This is not good for 2 very very good reasons - you'd of course need all the NFA / Class III requirements first to have a 2-round-burst gun, I'd almost certainly imagine, if you don't already have them, and 2, sometimes you obviously want one and only one shot, not 2 or 3. So err on the side of caution, and have another sear on hand in case you do go too far, for swapping out, so you don't get Joe Batman knocking on your door. It's a fine line to walk to get a nice trigger but still enough meat on the front teeth to catch the hammer on the way forward without an extra trip forward and back by the hammer. On this subject, one thing that comes to mind as a possibility is to get a stronger hammer spring, because the rear "leafs / extensions" of the hammer spring serve double duty to push the sear up and forward, which in turn pushes the trigger bar and trigger forward. Well, if the spring was stronger, it would push the sear and trigger forward FASTER upon manual release of the trigger, making the front teeth of the sear catch the hammer more quickly, which would in turn allow you to take a little more meat off those teeth, and still have enough to catch the hammer on it's way up the first time, retaining semi-auto. BUT, then, with a stronger hammer spring, assuming such a thing even exists or can be made, might then introduce problems of perhaps broken firing pin or other problems - dunno. No real easy solution, but a combo of good lubing, and a *little* bit of sear filing should be able to get you a quite nice trigger for a *battle* rifle (not really a match rifle).

OK, I'll give a range report later on this week hopefully.

Andrew, no I don't think I ever detailed the project before now - sorry, didn't mean to imply that I had - so my bad, not yours.

Well, it's not cheap, I'll tell ya. A good $525 over the cost of the rifle, not counting shipping to gunsmith, and not counting (most) accessories like scope. So let's say - wow - hadn't really thought about it, and now not so sure I want to - ummm, it's got to be in excess of $1,800.... A big part of that is that Trijicon scope. You could easily get by with a less expensive one, like a LER or Interm. ER scope. You could also go with a regular ER scope - it's a very flexible setup, when you get this P-rail delirious. My second choice scope for it was the Burris 2.75x fixed power LER "scout" scope, but I wanted the IR and the adjustable power up to 4 and down to 1.25 of the Trijicon. Of course, an ACOG would be a nice choice for this rifle, but I just could not afford / justify that, and plus, the Accupoint goes down to 1.25x, which I think might be handy in some circumstances.

My favorite part about this rifle is that it's the ultimate blissninny nightmare, yet-still-civilian-legal-postban EBR, what with the bullpup, pistol grip, etc. (good timing for a halloween blissninny scare). After all, we learned from the Beltway sniper media and anti-gun group reports, that .223 is the most powerful round on earth, far more powerful than the previously-thought-to-be-the-ultimate-in-deadliness handgun rounds.

Please lemme know if you want me to post a close-up of any other part of the rifle - I will.

I wonder how much bullpup fever this might start - c'mon Tam - NOW you LIKE Bushy bullpups, don't you? [nodding head in hypnotizing manner].

Still need suggestions for a front sight that would work, and attach via that P rail?

C'mon, c'mon, c'mon now folks! I've been waiting almost 20 minutes for someone else to covet my "new" rifle...what's the holdup?! JK.

BTW, the designation of this rifle is the

"GPSRPHDCMV3GMSHTFEOTWAWKIMIGT" Rifle

That's "General Purpose, Short-Range, Personal and Homeland Defense, Citizen's Militia, Varmints, 3-Gun Match, and Stuff Hit The Fan, End-Of-The-World-As-We-Know-It, Martian Invasion, Go-To" Rifle, got it?

Please show pics of *your* GPSRPHDCMV3GMSHTFEOTWAWKIMIGT gun, to make this thread more interesting....

Also taking name suggestions, but since this is my most prized firearm, or at least most expensive anyway (at present) I think it MUST probably be named after the best-looking gal of all time, "Mary Ann" (aka Dawn Wells). Besides, "Denise Richards" and "Catherine Zeta Jones" are too long for gun names.

Tee hee - I shoulda known that any member with "HK" in their user name, would covet something with THIS many plastic-ey doodads on it. Lol. JK. Anyone in OK or passing through want to shoot it - jus gimme an email or PM.

BTW, I going to get:

"R.K.B.A." engraved on one side, and
"For The Children" engraved on the other.

BTW, my GPLRPHDCM Rifle is going to be a DSA FAL in .260 Rem at some point.

That's "General Purpose, Long-Range, Personal and Homeland Defense, Citizen's Militia" Rifle.

CWL - sounds good, but whaddya mean exactly? Even though there's a little wiggle room, eye-relief-wise, on this scope, there ain't much room forward or back of where it is now, without running afoul of the flip-up charging handle, or getting out of eye relief. Do you mean use the red-dot through the scope? Front or back of it? Or something else? Which 3-way riser rail? Can you post a link to same? Thanks.

Maybe something like this?

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...18245&title=AR-15/M-16+DUAL-RAIL+ADAPTER+BASE

Ya know, with something like that, I could maybe just dispense with the red dot altogether by using the Ashley ghost ring with a front post for short range - on top, and put the scope on the angle (but aligned straight up/down, reticle-wise) -hmmm lotsa mental gymnastics here.