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Leaving it to the experts at THR

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I just want a little help with identifying even though I think I have used the information previously posted with the help of the search function and at the top of this forum. I recently inherited my first revolver (go me!) and am looking to figure out what type it is, as well as where can I buy holsters, speed loaders, etc. for it. I figured with the help of THR I can address all my newbie concerns. Serial is S 9485xx

This is her, albeit dirty with some slight surface rust right after I got 'er:

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Thank you guys.

Damian
 
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Your gun is a six shooter and appears to be on a K frame, so it isn't a chiefs specal. Most likely it is a pre-model 10 or Military & Police revolver.
The S serial range doesn't go higher than S333454 and was used for the large N frame revolvers.

If your revolver is stamped SV9485xx then the serial number range is correct for a Victory model revolver, probably completed after WWII.
 
No V in the serials anywhere on the frame or cylinder area, just the S9485 but there is about an inch and a half of space between the S and the rest of the number on the bottom of the buttplate. The S is on a seperate chamber on the cylinder to the numbers of the serial and on the bottom of the barrel/in front of the cylinder on the frame it is all tight together.

Another thing I have noticed is the stamping of the serial number, while looking like it was done on a machine, it still kind of crude looking. No, it does not look altered from factory at all either.

Damian
 
That's a late 1947 or early 1948 M&P. It's easily identifiable by the s/n. I have an S934xxx that dates to 1947. "SV" prefixes were used only on military guns up to about SV880xxx, then the civilian models reverted to just an "S" prefix. C prefix, which started the third million run of M&P revolvers, ran from '48 to '68, and took up after S. The grips are almost certainly original and unique to the "transitional" revolvers of 1946 to 1952.

I have been looking for a 2" Transition myself to go with my other Victory and Transitions; I would be very excited to have one in this conditon - you've got a nice gun there! It is very nice it has the original grips in excellent shape. You can use any 2" K frame holster, and any HKS model "10" speedloaders. If you are going to carry it, I would suggest you put on some aftermarket (or cheap later model OE grips) and protect those original ones - they can get banged up easily when carried and are worth keeping in nice shape. I'd keep that gun in good shape, it looks like it's seen little or no use based on the grips, ejector star, and (lack of) cylinder turn line.
 
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Nice gun - a little clean up and your M&P will be ready to go .

What Oro wrote seems to cover it all.
 
Oro has it right, it's a 1947/1948 Pre-Model 10 according the SCSW 3rd Edition. That's a very nice revolver and the Diamond grips are in very good shape too. That will make a sweet carry revolver for sure...
 
You guys are great. Thank you very much for not only the kind words, but great information.

Now, for insurance purposes, do you guys know about what price range something like this would run? I am definitely going to clean her up and I may carry it, but not often to try and preserve it the best I can. This is definitely going to become a family heirloom.

Damian
 
Now, for insurance purposes, do you guys know about what price range something like this would run?

In todays market on a gun auction site it will go for at least $650.00. Get 2 fellas wanting it and get in a bidding war and it will go higher. Reason being there are very few of the 2" versions of this revolver in this good of shape.
 
Oro's identification is correct, and I should explain that Smith & Wesson had two, seperate "S prefix serial number series. One was assigned to fixed-sight K-frame revolvers, and the other to N-frame guns. You cannot date a "S" prefix .38 revolver until you know which frame you are dealing with.
 
Nice snubbie M&P. I would be very careful cleaning it up. Use a stiff toothbrush for the grunge and a soft brass one to clean up any stubborn rust. I have even used the edge of a penny to clean out some stubborn grunge.
If and when you carry it use a very good holster and be careful bumping the grip on anything.
 
Not a Model 10 yet, as S&W hadn't started to use model numbers at that time. It is the Military & Police revolver with a two inch barrel, a common carry gun for plainclothes officers who preferred it to the 5 shot I-frame .38 S&W Terrier for the extra round and the greater power of the .38 Special.

The Chiefs Special (later Model 36) was built on the then-new J-frame, which was an elongated I-frame.

Jim
 
I'm not trying to sell it. It's an inheritance so it will definitely stay with me. I cleaned it up today a bit at work and will post pics on the improved look as soon as I take them. This weekend should be when.

I went and took her to the range today and she shot mighty fine. A serious 25 yard threat with a SUPER smooth trigger/action. I think I am on the verge of becoming a revolver afficionado because of this gun. Do most revolvers feel this sweet to shoot?

Again, thank you guys for all the tips and information, I seriously appreciate it.

Damian
 
I think I am on the verge of becoming a revolver afficionado because of this gun. Do most revolvers feel this sweet to shoot?

Yes, most S&W revolvers do indeed feel that nice on the action. Yours is going to feel a little smoother because it is the "Long action" type, which stacks slightly less. Many can argue, but there is a case to be made that the pre-1948 "long action" K-frames have the best actions of all S&W revolvers.

The downside of the "long actions" is the high arch on the hammer, which blocks the sight picture until the trigger is 1/2 stroked. But you can learn to live with it.
 
Like said above, be very careful with those grips. Original Diamond grips in that good a condition are worth quite a few bucks.

Now that you shot that revolver you see why so many revolvers lovers like the old S&W revolvers so much.
 
It looks like a s&w rev, any info of value can be obtained from the s&w website, not from knowitalls on a gun forum, unless they have happened to have worked for s&w
 
I see your point, but if you haven't noticed, this website interconnects many years of experienced folks all in one place with the ability write information at any time. I understand where you're coming from, and I know there are people on here that are a$$hats, but like anywhere you can filter through the bs and the good stuff.

I also wanted to find out what grips would you guys recommend to maintain a classy appearance (i.e. - no rubber)?

Damian
 
TeamprecisionIT, CompleteIdiot has only two posts, both very negative. I would suggest not feeding the troll.
 
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Quite possibly the S&W web site can provide info (though it is more oriented to sale of a product), but a few of the folks on here have been around S&Ws for at least a week or two and do know a little bit about them. Maybe even more than the current folks at the S&W factory, who are not always knowledgeable about the older models.

Hi, TeamPrecision,

Those S&W diamond wood grips are about as classy and classic as you can get. I wouldn't replace them.

Jim
 
Not really trying to replace them, but when I want to carry, I want to put on another set of grips that I wouldn't getting dinged up because they aren't of historic significance to the revolver. Will this one share grips with a Model 10?

Damian
 
Jim Keenan: The S&W website suggests buying the SCSW3 & Flaydermanns if you want to learn more about their guns and history. It doesn't give further detail than that.

TeamPrecisonIT, the SCSW doesn't list any change to the size of the grip, just variations such as grooves, I would assume that any K frame square butt grip should fit your gun, but I'm willing to be corrected by the more knowledgeable members.
 
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