What is the perfect Fighting Revolver?

Depends on your situation.

Personally, when I carry a wheel gun it's because I want power that an auto can't give me, or I want to shoot some sort of specialized round. I like a 4 inch N frame, with .41 being a favorite, if I plan on fighting something like bears, or a my SP-101 357 for rattler stoked with snakeshot.

Other than that, I can't think of anything a revolver can do for 'fighting' that an auto can't do better.

Now, if we are talking about a 'toss in the pocket' SD gun, that's another matter.

I own a 3" Model 66 and a CZ P-01. They are pretty comparable in size. The 66 is actually a bit larger in all max dimensions, and a bit heavier, but probably more concealable because of the slimmer grip and barrel.

But it's six shots vs. fifteen shots in the gun. For me, it's a five to eight second reload at best vs. a pretty sure two or three second reload. It's a total of twelve rounds on hand vs. twenty-nine. Sure, a .357 hits a bit harder than a 9mm, but it isn't that much better.

If I had to carry a revolver, that 66 would probably be my first choice, but I don't have to, and so I carry an automatic.

I really like my N frame 45ACP's. The 5" 625 offers much less recoil, but the Nightguard carries and points so much nicer. I haven't decided yet, but I might have to go with the snub 325 as my favorite. Wish I could get my hands on a 4" Thunder Ranch; I think it might offer the best of both in a single package.

Dhart's S&W 581 as setup by Mark Hartshorn At Pinnacle High Performance only with a parkerized finish vs. shiny blue and Magnas with a Tyler T grip adapter.
I do believe that this is Moonclipped as well.

These pics are Dhart's from this thread http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=438362
AFTER

I'd take what I already have.

a 4" Smith and Wesson 586

4" 686

I will stick with my Combat Masterpiece...Model 15.

Colt Magnum Carry, with bobbed hammer, chamfered cylinder, and Spegel grips. Good luck finding one, though.

In the alternative, and depending completely on hand size, the 2"S&W Model 10, bobbed hammer, chamfered cylinder, and Spegel grips is also a contender.

In both cases, I go with the snub. The loss of velocity (IMHO) is offset by the manueverabilty of the short barrel (think working across your body from a seated position), and the leverage you have holding the grip of a snub is much greater than the leverage an attacker has trying to disarm you.

I don't own one, but a Ruger 4" Barrel Redhawk (the newer one), might be the most rugged revolver you could take into the field. Stainless, coil springs, potent caliber, and a reputation for being durable. It might stand up nicely to the rigors of combat. I am also contemplating the use of a 500 S&W with the 2 3/4" barrel with medium loads (375gr @ 1100fps) as a "one shot stopper". The 500 is a tremendously accurate gun, and probably not that much heavier than the Ruger. As long as you have your own supply of ammo for your gun, you could have anything.

4" S&W Model 29 Mountain Gun in .44 Magnum. Good size and weight, can shoot .44 Specials, or fend off bears with heavy loads. I like blue over stainless...not as showy.

Huh, I thought it was the 4" S&W Model 10.

amprecon said:

Huh, I thought it was the 4" S&W Model 10.

Click to expand...

The Model 10 is a great one, but I like large bore revolvers.

depends upon what I'm carrying and for what reason; for most CCW I use a S&W 642 w/ Winchester WWB Personal Defense 125gr sjhp .38 spl +p or Remington Express 158gr lswchp .38 spl +p; for working/scouting at the hunting grounds it is either 1) a Ruger GP100 w/ CCI Blazer Brass 158gr jhp .357 mag or Federal CastCore 180gr swaged flatpoint leadhead .357 mag or 2) Uberti Cattleman SAA clone w/ Remington Express 225gr lswc solid leadhead .45 Colt

If it's for fighting I prefer a 4" GP100 or S&W L frame. The frame provides additional weight to reduce recoil but is still lighter than a N frame.

The pocket snubbies are a personal fav. I really like J frame but will be switching to LCR's for that role sooner or later. I can pocket carry G26 but some days just need something that isn't so heavy. Will probably get a sp-101 in 357 someday also.

For full size I wish they would made a Stainless steel version of the Thunder Ranch 325. I want a 4" 625 with a rail for a light for nightstand (HST's or Magsafes) and hiking (with Buffalo Bore's 45 autorim load: .45 Auto Rim +P Ammo - 255 gr. H.C. F.N. (1,000 fps/ M.E. 566 ft. lbs)).

I have been thinking a lot lately about what would make up the perfect fighting revolver (for me anyway). I think it would be a K Frame, a round butt (preferably), .357, 3", stainless (I do prefer blue though) with fixed sights.

Click to expand...

My main squeeze is a 3" RB model 65-3. Works for me.

DAO and action hone, (lightly) chamfered cylinders, and we're there, IMHO.

I'd take a 4" model 10 in the same tune just as easily, however; it worked for Jim Cirillo.

In the alternative, and depending completely on hand size, the 2"S&W Model 10, bobbed hammer, chamfered cylinder, and Spegel grips is also a contender.

In both cases, I go with the snub. The loss of velocity (IMHO) is offset by the manueverabilty of the short barrel....

Click to expand...

speaking of Cirillo, I either heard or read somewhere that he kept a shorter barrel strong side and the 4" model 10 cross draw because the snub cleared leather faster. I'd want to fact-check that again before swearing to it, as it has been a while and my memory could be less than perfect on that.
--
I love the L-frame magnums as well, though they are a bit heavy on the swing (again, IMHO, of course).

K-frames fit me, and I trust them after many thousands of rounds.

Other opinions may differ, and that's fine too. Lots of good wheelies out there.

Ruger GP-100 4 inch, full lug barrel, with an SP101 and a Taurus Model 85 riding backup (one pocket, one ankle).

I think it just comes down to what you personally trust most to get the job done. I also think it depends on what you mean by "fighting" and "combat." I carry a Ruger sp101 .357 mag daily. However, if I were going into a warzone (and for some reason forgot my automatic pistol), I'd probably go with my gp100 because I shoot really well with it.

It all comes down to preference.

A 5" S&W M27 is my pick.

3" S&W 66, pre lock of course.

Perfect fighting revolver? The one you have when you need it, vs. the 'perfect' one you have in your gun safe.

I don't think of a handgun as a "fighting gun". "Defensive gun" or "PDW (personal defense weapon)" is a better description. If I know I'm going to a gun fight, I want one of my long guns, or maybe one of uncle sam's, maybe belt fed.

I have been thinking a lot lately about what would make up the perfect fighting revolver (for me anyway). I think it would be a K Frame, a round butt (preferably), .357, 3", stainless (I do prefer blue though) with fixed sights.

Click to expand...

Funny, you just described my carry gun.

S&W Model 65 with a 3" barrel. I shoot the K frame better then the J frame as I shoot it better and get six shots instead of five. I find the round butt more comfortable to shoot then the square butt. I prefer stainless for the corrossion resistence and fixed sights because they can't be knocked out of alignment.

If you are going to carry a revolver, a 3" stainless K frame is hard to beat.