Reloading bench coating?

If I were you. I'd rethink making the bench desk height. Mine is counter-top height and I use a stool. I find that I stand about as much as I sit. If you build it lower, you'll not be able to stand up and use it.

As for the coating, I used some interior semi-gloss latex paint that I had laying around. Interior paint is better for the bench top because, even though it's not weatherproof, it dries to a harder finish than does exterior paint.

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I used 3 coats of rustoleum exterior ( for metal ) makes a very hard finish.
Let dry for about a week...................

This is my garage workbench--my 3 reloading benches in the basement--2 are painted w/ rustoleum--1-plainwood -for gun cleaning (things soak thru the newspapers I put down--who cares!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

I skinned mine in masonite. It can be replaced if it gets dinged up an is very cheap and fast to install.

Rubber mat would do nicely.

Mine is raw plywood. I don't think you can go wrong either way.



I would also make the bench taller. Mine is tall enough so I can load sitting on a bar stool or standing.

I have two different benches. At one I sit on an old milk can or I can stand.

Number two, which holds my first Dillon, is a stand up height only.

They both have certain uses.

One is 2X8's for the top and the other is 3/4" plywood, good one side. It is covered with a plastic sealer.

Same thing as RustyFN, plain Ply and I stand and sit.

The problem with raw wood is it's harder to keep clean. If you spill small-grain powder it works into the pores in the wood. Hardened Masonite or a hard coating are the best. If you want something impervious go with a two-part epoxy paint.

I used Formica now Wilsonart top on one of my benches. Hard surface, easy to cleanup powder, nothing falls between the boards. The other bench is a butcherblock hard maple top. Both work fine.

Just make sure you use the much more expensive reloading bench specific coatings. As we all know normal paints aren't up to the task of protecting reloading related furnishings.


I have my reloading operation setup on a gov't surplus office desk with a nice comfy chair. I stand 10hrs a day at work so I far dang sure don't want to stand to enjoy my hobby.

In my woodworking hobby (and for the tops of my benches, and all the tops of tables I've built), I found that:

Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop finish varnish is hard to beat and leaves an extremely durable and pleasing finish.

Sommerled

I used a planked appearance pine top for my bench. Sealed it with 3 coats of MinWax PolyRub and put a piece of 1/8" plexiglass over it.

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It cost me $26 for the pine top, $12 for the plexiglass cut to order, and the rest was scraps or remnants from previous projects.

Spar urethane, great for workbenches.

Don't worry about the coating, just make sure the bench is sturdy and secure.

This is a question more than an answer because my work bench needs a make over.

How about epoxy floor paint not the water based kind but like from Sherman Williams that you have to mix the two parts together and roll on with a roller or brush.

Some of my friends-kin folks have used it in their "cook out" building on the floors. They put down a coat(it can be tinted most any color with the right tints), put sprinkles or flakes in that coat. Then they put down another clear coat over the tinted-flaked coat.
One Cousin has the bottom coat Harley D orange with black and white flakes, looks very cool and appears to be very very tough as far as wear. Other has an off creme color with white and brown flakes, also pretty cool looking.

Now the Question ... would the two part epoxy floor paint work for a table with chemical-oil problems? It is mainly used for industrial floors, so would it work well for a bench-table top coating?

I can see it now RCBS Green with black and white flakes.... Dillon blue with dark blue and white flakes.... Redding green with dark green and white.... Lyman orange with black and brown....Oh oh gotta have a Lee red with crappy colored flakes(just Joking) ....

Jimmy K

My main bench has a solid-core door as a top. I sanded it, then applied 3 coats of polyurethane as a sealer. As one previous poster indicated, unless you're using something w/o pores like masonite or similar, stuff will grind into the grain of the wood.

While looking around I found another material, it looks like an enamel based dry erase board on one side and was only $10 per 4x8 sheet. I'm pretty happy with it so far. I covered the top, back, and shelves with it. I can't say how well it will hold up to abuse yet but it sure is easy to see everything on it from little parts to powder. Clean up has been very easy so far with just a wet rag. I may try some solvents on a piece of scrap to see if it effects the coating.

I also found last week that this material is now my favorite target backer. I used some of my scrap stuff and worked great on my mtm stand made for cardboard.

Make a plywood top then glue a piece of brown hardboard over it, smooth side up. Wrap the top edge of the bench in some kind of small trim that sits maybe 1/4 inch above to keep anything from rolling off. Cleanup is with a small wisk broom.

If you don't like the brown, lightly sand it then paint it your favorite color.

Minwax stain (gunstock).Four coats of minwax Poly,semi gloss.Works like a charm !

I'm a long-time woodworker and support 'Formica' or Polyurethane varnish (OIL BASE)--stain optional. Both methods are practical, attractive, very durable and resistant to chemicals.

Wood 'breathes' especially in a garage or non-climate controlled area. Finish "both sides' and edges and it will stay stable.

I used exterior floor and stair paint. It dried rock hard and I used 3 coats. Looks nice too.

I used Glidden porch and patio steel gray on the wooden frame.one coat thick stuff...Looks awesome ! Bye the way The 2x4 Basic frame kit is ROCK SOLID !

I made mine out of film faced marine grade plywood that I got somewhere a long time ago and it works perfectly. Coated smooth surface protected against water and stains.

Kitchen Formica works well, I have also used Sikkens exterior stain (I have Adirondack chairs outside for a decade with no wear or rot); I have also used a THICK coating of polyurethane (like some bars have on their bar top)

Anything that is easy to clean and smooth to facilitate cleanup works well