I bought these bullets in 230gr LRN and seated them all to the same length of my other bullets, also same as the WWB - 1.269. However, they all failed to feed when dropped into the barrel. I seated them deaper to 1.211 and they dropped fine. I am a little unsure if I should have to do that though, seating deaper, or should I try to crimp the bullet??? Any help???
Missouri Bullets Help
- Thread starter r32bjj
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Crimp one up and see what happens. With lead you have to bell the case a little more, if it isn't returned back to a normal size it may not chamber.
What do you mean by "bell the case a little more" - crimping? I don't have a crimping die but am about to buy one if necessary.
It sounds like you need to do some reading in a manual or two. When you load for a .45acp, especially with lead bullets you need a decent amount of flare, or bell on the case. This is the second step, or the second die in a three die set. This opens the mouth of the case so the bullet can go in. You will absolutely need to crimp the round. Crimping on a 45acp case is basically just removing the bell that you put on the case to facilitate the installation of the bullet. I find that a diameter of .471 works just fine in any gun I own.
You shouldnt have to seat that bullet that deep, excpept in certain odd circumstances. I use the same bullet in all of my .45acp loadings currently, and I load to a OAL of 1.250. I Find best accuracy and feeding there. In my glock, when I was using the Lone Wolf Barrel, they would have to be seated to 1.22" to feed, and even then would experience failures, due to the tight chamber.
What kind of gun are you using?
You shouldnt have to seat that bullet that deep, excpept in certain odd circumstances. I use the same bullet in all of my .45acp loadings currently, and I load to a OAL of 1.250. I Find best accuracy and feeding there. In my glock, when I was using the Lone Wolf Barrel, they would have to be seated to 1.22" to feed, and even then would experience failures, due to the tight chamber.
What kind of gun are you using?
mongoose33
Member
What ljnowell said, plus let me add this:
I haven't shot that particular MB in my .45 (I use the 200gr RNFP), but I also shoot the 125gr smallball in my 9mm.
That smallball round has a very "fat" ogive, unlike the rather pointy ogive and shape of a WWB 9mm bullet.
If i load it too long, it jams into the rifling, so I have to load it shorter.
In looking at the pic of the 230gr LRN at Missouri Bullet, it appears to have the same shape as the smallball.
Thus, you may simply need to work up a load using a shorter OAL than you'd have with another bullet.
No big deal--just work it up.
I haven't shot that particular MB in my .45 (I use the 200gr RNFP), but I also shoot the 125gr smallball in my 9mm.
That smallball round has a very "fat" ogive, unlike the rather pointy ogive and shape of a WWB 9mm bullet.
If i load it too long, it jams into the rifling, so I have to load it shorter.
In looking at the pic of the 230gr LRN at Missouri Bullet, it appears to have the same shape as the smallball.
Thus, you may simply need to work up a load using a shorter OAL than you'd have with another bullet.
No big deal--just work it up.
I am shooting from a 1911 commander match barrel. The reason I never used a crimp is because a have the lee carbide pistol dies which the manual says it doesn't need crimping. the bullet diameter itself is .452, will crimping reduce the diameter? I am confused now. I did fire 100 rounds of the bullets I made with the 1.211 OAL seating, and they all worked 100% with no visible over preasure, I did keep the load to the minium recomended.
Interesting, I don't remember seeing that in the Lee die instructions. You still need to crimp like the others said, just enough to get rid of the flair in the case mouth. The seating die will also crimp but a separate crimp die is much easier with lead bullets.
No the bullet will be fine.
That is why you need to read a reloading manual. It will explain die setup and the purpose of each die. Why you need to flair the case mouth and why you need to crimp. It will also explain a lot more things you don't even have questions for yet. My recommendation to any new reloader is to read a manual before you even touch a press.
Any time you seat a bullet deeper you will want to drop the charge and work it back up. With your loads already at the starting charge you should be fine.
Thanks for the reply.
Here is where it says, go to the carbide dies:
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/dies-pistol.html
"No need for a taper crimp die, plus better accuracy with Lee Dies. Taper crimp dies are used to correct the problems caused by the improper expanding plug design or adjustment. They distort the bullet shank and reduce accuracy. Because the Lee Expander flares the minimum amount, consistent with easy bullet insertion, all of the flare is removed with the bullet seating die, thus eliminating the need for a taper crimp die."
I guess I will get one anyways.
With jacketed bullets a crimp may not be needed, but with a 45 the jacketed bullets are .451 where cast or plated is .452, that is a small difference to us but a huge one to the case. I can chamber most rounds but some have to be crimped to remove the belling/flaring/expanding to get a good fit.
Your OAL is the same as some "factory" round you compared to- measuring butt to nose. But what you have to remember is where the bullet meets the rifling in making up a new cartridge.
This is what most use to measure shell base to ogive of loaded ammunition:
You are on the right track seating them deeper.
Justin
On my Lee Carbide dies the seater die IS a crimp die. There is no crimp needed outside of it what it provides, if properly adjusted. If you have a match grade barrel, it is entirely lucky that it has a sharp and early lead into the rifling. That was one of my problems with the Lone Wolf Barrels for glocks, you had to seat everything way deep, IMO.
Take some of your finished rounds, and measure the widge right at the case mouth.
R32 thanks for posting that. For the record I don't want you to think I was calling you a liar I just never saw that before. I think ljnowell is right. It sounds like Lee is saying that you don't need a taper crimp die because you can crimp in their seating die. If a taper crimp die causes problems then why do the sell taper crimp die's and the FCD. Clear as mud isn't it?
No problems, I didn't think you were calling me a lier. I think the crimping die is necessary for the other dies set, not for the ones I have.R32 thanks for posting that. For the record I don't want you to think I was calling you a liar I just never saw that before. I think ljnowell is right. It sounds like Lee is saying that you don't need a taper crimp die because you can crimp in their seating die. If a taper crimp die causes problems then why do the sell taper crimp die's and the FCD. Clear as mud isn't it?
Thank you so much for the explanation, I now have a much metter picture of what is going on.
Your OAL is the same as some "factory" round you compared to- measuring butt to nose. But what you have to remember is where the bullet meets the rifling in making up a new cartridge.
This is what most use to measure shell base to ogive of loaded ammunition:
You are on the right track seating them deeper.
Justin
Seedtick
Member
I don't remember reading that either.
Well...now I know why most, if not all, of the flare is gone after the bullet is seated.
ST
Well...now I know why most, if not all, of the flare is gone after the bullet is seated.
ST
As said above, you do not have enough crimp on your case. Try this:
Raise the seating plug, place a case in the shellholder and raise the ram, screw in the die body until it touches the case and then a half turn more.
Place a bullet on top of the case and lower the seating plug until you get the OAL you want, somewhere between 1.260-1.269 for FMJ.
Remove the round with the bullet seated and measure the outside of the case mouth with the bullet seated. it should be .469-.471, if not lower the crimp die until you get this measurement.
Remove the barrel from your gun and try inserting the cartridge into the chamber. It should fall completely into the chamber under it's own weight, and fall back out by itself.
You don't mention what kind of 45 you have. Some with tight or match barrels will need you to seat the bullet in one die, and taper crimp with another. That is what I needed to do with my Springfield.
Hope this helps
Bill
Do exactly what orrwdd said to do. Lee has a video on their website that shows this exact procedure. Place the casing in the shellholder and raise the ram. Screw the seating die in until contact with the case mouth. Lower the ram and do 1/2 of a turn further. Then adjust the seating depth with the seating plug. Very simple.
Thanks, I will try that. If it doesn't work I know that seating them deaper works as well. I am shooting these through a DW CBOB.
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