Where to purchase swords?

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KB -

i don't believe i ever mentioned replicas. if i did, that might not have been the correct word to use. when i said "if you can't afford a real sword" i meant in comparison to wall hangers, which do not run 70bux. i've seen 'em for 20-30 or less. i was talking about the SS rat tail Katanas. i was saying that these are a DANGEROUS alternative to buying a fully functional sword, yet get purchased (all to often) with the belief they are sufficient for engaging human threats.

edit - YEP, i did say "replica". my bad. by replica i didn't mean an exact replica. i meant a vague replica - like Katana, or Wakizashi
 
There's nothing special about a sword made with tamahagane. It's certainly no stronger than a sword made with modern steel.

You're very wrong about that.

There's a really fine documentary about swords called "Reclaiming the Blade" and it deals with not only how swords were employed in actual combat during various periods, but how the technology changed and developed over the centuries.
Pattern welded blades like the tamahagane type were actually used in the west far earlier than in Japan, and the western blades were much more technically advanced. One such sword found in England dates back to about 700-800 AD. This particular blade has six interwoven strains of soft iron inside a hardened steel outer shell rivaling any modern surgical steel - and it's far more complex than the Japanese tamahagame style blade.
Nobody could make such a blade today. And even at the time, it would have taken a rare master six months to a year make a single sword. In battle it would have been pretty much unbreakable and because of its advanced construction would have been lighter and faster than an opponents sword - with superior cutting ability. That technology was lost in Europe about 1200.

Modern swords are a compromise between flexibility and hardness. There is no compromise in an older pattern welded blade. The outer steel is harder and cuts better than any modern steel sword and yet it doesn't shatter because of its soft steel interior.

If you can find Reclaiming the Blade, it's well worth buying if you're a sword enthusiast.
 
If your gonna use it for HD< get a freakin' 12 dollar machete. It may not be fancy but its way better in confined spaces.
 
pete f -

you're right on the machete, it's proven effective as a instrument of death in SEVERAL developing countries :(

however i gotta say my Waki is just as useful even in confined spaces. apx 18" blade and 10" handle (those are apx's) AND more effective thruster than ANY machete. but i understand, a $440 zombie chopper aint for everyone.
 
Tamahagane is just the steel that is smelted out of the ore sands using a traditional Japanese process. It is not the laminated/pattern welded/damascus steel used in blades. It goes into making the billets that are then forged to blades.

I've helped make tamahagane. We've done it a couple of times at hammer-ins. The process is time consuming and requires continual attention. The smelting process is very particular and we joke about it being like building burning hot trifle inside a vertical smelter using charcoal and iron sands and some other bits and snips. After all the work that goes into making the smelter and the continual attention to firing and feeding it you'd think a bunch of smiths would be reluctant to bust it apart to get to the bloom of steel inside it's base, but it's more like little kids waiting for Christmas morning to tear into the packages to get to the present inside. That "present" is more like the contents of a piñata with slag and wrought iron and the various grades of carbon steel to be sorted by hand and file. And in all that is the tamahagane, the steel with just the right amount of carbon and manganese and silicon. The jewel in the stone set free in the fire of the smelter.

Even then the real art and science in making a blade is in using the tamahagane forged with the low carbon steel to make a laminated steel blade with anything from a complex layering to a relatively simple high carbon hard core sandwiched between softer low carbon "bread" making a 3 layer laminate that has the characteristics of strength and flexibility and resilience along with edge hardness to withstand impact and still cut with minimal bending of the blade or chipping of the edge. Follow that with the plunge into water of the hot blade after clay is carefully applied to differentially quench the blade to bring out all the desirable properties the combination of steels. A blade forged just from tamahagane wouldn't have all the same benefits because it is after all just a simple carbon steel. Essentially the same steels and same techniques of laminating different steels to produce a composite structure with all these desirable properties when properly heat treated have been discovered in many places across the globe in other cultures. Viking, Indian, SE Asia produced knives and swords with composite structures using simple carbon steels in combination.

OTOH, there are modern smiths currently working using modern steels producing sword blades superior to the revered ancient blades. Some use laminates and others use single steels. As far as I know the best of the best for performance is still the L6 Bainite blades produced by Howard Clark.

Having been putzing around knives and swords for over 30 years I've been fortunate to have been around a few hammer-ins and conventions with these folks. I'm also lucky to own both ancient and modern pieces and I've seen and handled scores of them. I've seen them cut and while no one doesn't honor the traditional smiths working with the materials available to them there's nothing magical about what they were able to produce (except maybe wootz;)).
 
What is the correct term for the old style laminated Japanese blade?

You're lucky I don't live near you because I'd make you miserable trying to get you to teach me some metallurgy!

I make knives myself, but beyond filing the blanks I don't work with metal. I'm pretty good with the wood, bone, ivory end of things. My next project (still in the thinking-about-it stage) is a wootz rapier cane-sword, if I can ever find a wootz rapier blank. I want to make a classic Victorian sword cane using silver clay for the furniture.
 
Unfortunately you probably won't be able to find a wootz rapier blank. As a primitive crucible steel wootz is even tougher to make than tamahagane (although I've been around for it too) and I've never seen a rapier made from it (that doesn't mean it hasn't).

Get a good rapier blank from Cas and see what you can build up with it. I'd be interested to see your work. http://casiberia.com/prod_List.aspx?q=rapier
 
You're very wrong about that.

There's a really fine documentary about swords called "Reclaiming the Blade" and it deals with not only how swords were employed in actual combat during various periods, but how the technology changed and developed over the centuries.
Pattern welded blades like the tamahagane type were actually used in the west far earlier than in Japan, and the western blades were much more technically advanced. One such sword found in England dates back to about 700-800 AD. This particular blade has six interwoven strains of soft iron inside a hardened steel outer shell rivaling any modern surgical steel - and it's far more complex than the Japanese tamahagame style blade.
Nobody could make such a blade today. And even at the time, it would have taken a rare master six months to a year make a single sword. In battle it would have been pretty much unbreakable and because of its advanced construction would have been lighter and faster than an opponents sword - with superior cutting ability. That technology was lost in Europe about 1200.

Modern swords are a compromise between flexibility and hardness. There is no compromise in an older pattern welded blade. The outer steel is harder and cuts better than any modern steel sword and yet it doesn't shatter because of its soft steel interior.

If you can find Reclaiming the Blade, it's well worth buying if you're a sword enthusiast.

As HSO mentioned, tamahagane is the iron used to make the steel, not the construction method. Blades made out of tamahagane are not miracle blades. You still need a good smith to forge the steel into a good strong blade.

I would take a Clark L6 banite over any other Japanese-style katana any day. In fact there isn't a gun made that's worth as much to me as a Clark-made katana. He makes some of the toughest works of art around. ;)
 
KD,

The Bergers are usually set up at Blade Show (next weekend in Atlanta), but I don't remember their offering anything in wootz. I've seen "damascus" before, though.

Which model on their website are you referring to.
 
It's the damascus I'm referring to. Sellers rarely go into wootz damascus vs pattern welded damascus and I suspect most of them are the latter type. So, more correctly, I'm looking for a damascus rapier blank.
 
I would take a Clark L6 banite over any other Japanese-style katana any day.

I guess my tastes tilt to the historical. I'd far prefer to have a traditional blade made long ago than a modern replica. The same with guns, I'd far prefer to have an early Colt than a modern one. Or an original Pennsylvania rifle to a modern replica.

Too, I suspect that any of these modern blades would shatter in a steel against steel combat. The traditional blades with a flexible core won't.
 
KD,

Ancient blades broke just like modern blades will break. The best modern blade steels are better than the best ancient blade steels and the best modern blades of composite and monolithic structure are better than the ancient blades of composite structure. Thats just modern metallurgy over ancient metallurgy and incorporation of the knowledge from intense study of those ancient swords by that handful of today's master makers.

Where myth isn't overcome by metallurgy is in the vast majority of modern manufactured swords. They may not incorporate the differential heat treat of carefully selected steels so that their blades have both a softer spine and the hard cutting edge of the ancient swords. The need to be truly functional just isn't in each and every one unlike the ancient sword. They bear pretty much the same resemblance to "real" swords that airsoft guns bear to "real" Schofields and Colts. They might look right and they might even function in a similar manner, but they aren't fully functional weapons.

Again, the mythology around 900-1700 AD Japanese swords is enormous. They performed in a manner that most modern blades can't, but the understanding of how that was accomplished is available and has been duplicated by modern master smiths and a few of them have improved upon that performance using modern materials and techniques. The awareness of modern master smiths who make blades inspired by them is pretty small though and the vast majority of people are only aware of the far lesser junk chromed pot metal and "stainless" steel and the slightly better "combat ready" through-temper simple carbon steel blades. Just as ancient blade smiths were of different classes modern blade smiths rank themselves into journeymen and masters and with the advantage of modern materials and modern technologies they can move the art of blade making forward of those ancient masters that inspire them.

You're feelings are the same that I held when I first started getting really interested in swords. it took until I started hanging out with real blade smiths who had devoted a lifetime of study and experimentation that I began to change that opinion to "the vast majority of modern blades you can buy don't compare to ancient blades" when I saw modern blades made by master blade smiths that equal and exceed ancient blades. Don Fogg, Howard Clark, Louie Mills and a few others are every bit as good as the legendary ancient smiths and they have the advantage of modern materials and technology at hand to produce superior blades.
 
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Perhaps you're correct about a few modern blade makers - I don't know. There are some pretty authoritative figures stating otherwise. The English sword I mentioned above had six interwoven strands of soft steel inside a hard steel core. I don't think anyone could do that today. The modern swords I see are pretty simple blades, no matter how good the steel might be.

Look at a M1907 sword like the one I mentioned above (the first ebay link is ending in 22 hours, still at $75 with no bidders...). That's hardly an ancient blade, but if you were to examine it you'd find it a lot more complex than the simple blades being made today. It actually has a "T" back on it to add chopping strength, then a deep fuller to cut weight, then only in the last half inch do you get to the actual cutting surface, which is tempered harder than the rest of the blade.
Along the back in the last 8 or 10" is a carved "blood" groove. I don't even know what the function of that is, but suspect it's to make the tip more flexible.
At the other end, a hard steel guard which is solid enough to break bone should you hit someone in the face with it at close quarters. Then an actual ergonomic grip shaped to fit the hand, rather than the simple oval of a typical sword. Such swords have a lot of engineering skill and thought applied to them. They were designed and made by people with hundreds of years of family history of actual sword combat, and they're marvelous fighting weapons. They're weapons from either end - to crush a skull with the pommel, smash a face with the thick guard, stab or chop with the blade.

Buy a M1907 and see for yourself. There is also the Patton and British (1908, 1912?) copies of the M1907, but those go for a lot more money.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nice-Spanish-Cavalry-Sword-Emblem-1900s-/170490259213?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b202e70d
 
I have had two Angus Trim's and an Albion.
I periodically get back into a sword craving and check out the sword forum, but so far I don't feel the need for another. If I do, it will be a cutlass/hanger circa 1700.

My advice - A Trims are good if you get them through a vendor or buy used from an individual. I had an issue buying directly from him. Still, his swords are largely affordable and good cutters.
The Albion I had was a great sword of high quality but the edge geometry sucked. But it was one of their older generations. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

I suggest you register on www.myarmoury.com and www.swordforum.com and do a lot of reading. Ask questions. Figure out what kind of sword you want, then watch the classifieds on those forums. Sword collectors seem to often get the itch for a new custom sword and sell some others from their collection at good prices to fund it. This will allow you to pick up what you want at a lower price, which makes it easier to recover your money if you decide swords aren't for you or if you want something different.

One thing I do have an appreciation for now is how the sword wasn't just a hunk of sharpened steel. A lot of thought and experience went into developing them and there is a bit of a science to a sword. Having a few taught me how a falchion handles and feels in the hands, how a Type X blade feels like you could cleave your way through a shield, etc. I definitely have a much better understanding of history from having owned them.
 
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I don't think anyone could do that today.

I've been present when it's been done. More than once. You just have to get into the real knifemaking community instead of the bulk of what's shown to people and then meet the people who actually hand craft swords. If you're lucky, as I have been, they'll let you hang around and watch it being done. Find a hammer-in as soon as you can and it will open your eyes. You really need to get with some of the American Bladesmith Society smiths and you'll change your mind about this stuff. There are no Master Smiths listed for AK, but there are 3 Journeyman Smiths there. Try here for starters = http://alaskablades.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=56&Itemid=61 If you get to the lower 48 you can find several in WA state. Bob Kramer, Tom Ferry, Bruce Bump, and others are there.

It isn't logical to think that something that has been done by man can't be done by someone else and probably has been. Also, there's nothing that has been done that can't be improved upon as technology and technique advances.

This sort of conversation has been had throughout the ages. Ogg says Sprig is the best chipped point maker "ever" until Sprig shows him Urg's point and sighs, "I just don't know how he does it. I don't know where he gets the material and what he does to it and how he flakes it. I've never seen anything like it!". As it has been, so will it be throughout time. Things get better because people push them forward.
 
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In Juneau - only two plane rides away! That's the problem with Alaska, you can't get anywhere by road because there aren't many.:uhoh: Maybe I'll contact them about a rapier blank.

If you do stop at Berger canes at the blade show, maybe you can slyly find out where they get their damascus rapier blades? They're certainly elegant looking.
 
I'd be surprised if Berger isn't making their own since they started out making knives and swords and then switched to sword canes to set themselves apart.
 
You can buy one of a variety of swords from Himalayan Imports. Some are authentic Nepalese swords, like the tarwar, and others are based on designs from other countries. In all cases, the swords are capable of being used as real fighting weapons, not wall hangers. With only one or two exceptions (Napoleon sword, still useful for fighting), the HI products are also extremely sturdy (and usually overbuilt).

Many of the tarwars have functional guards, and sometimes are on sale for $150 or so (check the HI forum at BladeForums.com). Many forum members have chopped trees down with theirs (something I would never suggest with most fighting swords, but it does show the strength of the blade). A tarwar is a real, sturdy, and very useful sword and a blade with an authentic history, as well. I would take one as soon as anything else, and in preference to most other swords.

John
 
Caveat emptor. If you don't know what you're looking for, I wouldn't suggest it.
 
Gotta agree with John, if you don't know enough to identify "real" swords from shiny (or not even shiny) junk I wouldn't dive into ebay.

OTOH, You will find reliable dealers there who sell real blades. They won't be selling shiny junk with their swords. You can also find real makers who sell on ebay (our own Fuad Acawi does), but, again, you have to know who you're dealing with and what you're buying. Be very careful and very skeptical if you don't have KodiakBeer's knowledge of western military blades. Be very skeptical of anything with the word "samurai" in the title or name.
 
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