6.5x55mm vs. .270

I rebarreled an old Mark X 30-06 to the Swede with no further work done to the bolt or magazine. I don`t know why a Savage with the same size bolt face and mag would be any more trouble.

It should be pretty simple on the Savage to swap out. Certainly something most could do at home one afternoon.

As for the cartridges themselves. For a hunting situation, you probably wouldn't notice much difference either way. Both have a decent selection of hunting bullets, .270 certainly being easier to find factory ammo for. For longer range stuff the 6.5mm has a much better selection of bullets out there with much better BC. If punching paper at distance was much of a thought I would go with the 6.5x55. If you just want a 6.5x55 then a barrel swap is the way to go. If you want the better hunting rifle, I'm not sure I would change especially since the factory barrel has irons which could be fun. Out side of long range shooting I don't think you will see much difference in the field between the two so do whatever makes you grin most.

I love the Swede" but it is a tad exotic here in the US. The 270 Win. will do anything the 6.5X55 will do at any range given the right bullet. Switching barrels would be fun and easy, but with iron sights you won't notice much difference performance wise. The .270 is noticeably louder than the 6.5X55 and does burr a bit more powder to get the same level of performance but Factory ammo is easy to find and lots less expensive around my area.

Midway.

If memory serves me right, at one time you could buy barrels for Savage in 6.5X55 from Midway USA. You might check them out. I have owned a Swede in a Rem 700 Classic. It is a very nice round. I shot 120 gr. Barnes and 120 gr. Speers in it for whitetails. Now Nosler has a Partition in 100 gr. that should sizzel.

One more adjustment!!

Plank Road Farm--According to the Lyman's 49th ed. Reloading Handbook, the 6.5x55 Swede has a case rim diameter that is 0.007" larger than the case rim diameter if the .270 Win.

Soooo, depending on how tight are the bolt face rim, and the extractor, of your Savage M-110, you may have to open either or both of those up just a tad to accomodate the Swede cartridge.

Neither adjustment is impossible, just be aware that they may be necessary.

While I'm at it, I agree with the above posters who state that there isn't much difference between the 2 rounds in terms of ballistic performance. Frankly if it were me, I would NOT do the switch, just because there is so little--if anything--to be gained.

Unless of course, the .270 bbl is shot out or otherwise ruined, or if you want to just for the experience, regardless of the expense, hassle, and lack of benefit.

Another thought: You could rebarrel to something else with the same size case base as the .270, and then it becomes a simple bbl swap, nothing more. If you want a 6.5, the 6.5 Creedmoor comes to mind; it is based on the .308 Win case, which has the same base as the .270.

However, I still wouldn't do it, unless you want to "just because." If I had a good, accurate shooting .270 with irons that I wanted to modify, I'd put a 'scope on it but that's all. Use removable rings, leave the irons in place, have the best of both worlds. (Please, no tip-off or "see-through" 'scope mounts!) The .270 is a useful short to midrange to what many people would call long-range cartridge, and will put down deer, antelope, and the like, as well as 10-rings, with regularity--always given that the shooter is capable!

Anyhow, good luck with the .270, whatever you decide, and PLEASE keep us posted, preferably with pictures!

My Swede carbine was made in 1907 - with a 140 gr bullet, it gives me a nice push; whereas my Model 7 in 7-08 with a 140 gr bullet smacks the hell out of my shoulder. Ballistically, the 6.5, 260, 7-08, 270 are all real close in equal guns - but as mentioned the case head is different

Recoil!

One Ounce Load--You said,

My Swede carbine was made in 1907 - with a 140 gr bullet, it gives me a nice push; whereas my Model 7 in 7-08 with a 140 gr bullet smacks the hell out of my shoulder

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The "felt recoil" of a particular rifle, has as much to do with how the stock of that rifle fits a particular shooter, as it has to do with anything else. That's why God made slip-on recoil pads, and why retro stock makers like Boyd's are in business.

I have a 110 long action that came in 223 (go figure) and swap out to my 6.5 Barrel regularly. Get a 308 bolt face and a go and no go gauge, savage nut wrench and your ready to roll. It takes me about 10 minutes or so.

Id recommend the Swede because you can get your hands on Lapua brass and good barrel life-

Swede military brass has a slightly larger head than 270. However, federal and winchester swede brass has the same size head.

I`m on my 3rd Swede (a M700, and Mark X rebarrels with 0.473" bolt faces plus a old M96) and have never had the rim size cause any troubles. To be honest I don`t think there is enought difference to worry about.

The Swede has less recoil than the .270 without a doubt.

If you want a Sweed, get it. I sure like mine. I've also had a .270 for 33 years. Rather than sell you on one or the other, I'll leave it at no critical difference hunting deer or elk.

If I were concerned about ALWAYS available ammo, or ammo that's always cheaper, I wouldn't even consider the Sweed. Even in Europe while stationed there, I found .270 Win more readily on the local economy than 6.5x55 (to include Great Britian). It's not even a race in the US or Canada. And if you compare brass and bullet prices, even if you're using 60 grains in a .270, and 45 ish grains in a Sweed, the 270 is cheaper per round.

Posts 9, 10, and 11 (Ol' Joe) especially really state the case that US brass uses the US '06 case head size. It works. If you switch your Savage, I'd consider using only a US brand and not use the Correct spec CCIP/European brass. Why have a glich when quickly bolting in a 2nd shot? European brass IS .477+ as Ol'l Joe so nicely shows.

I'd consider searching out how to swap a Savage barrel yourself. It's pretty easy and only takes about $50 of "special" tools.

Pac-Nor sells prechambered barrels. (http://www.pac-nor.com/)

This guy makes a gunsmithing career off the savage (and is VERY busy)
http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/
He has two brands of prechambered, ready to go barrels. Or, he'll put one on for you.

Midway carries A&B prechambered barrels. They are low quality. That said, I have one in .30-06 for a savage. Not WORSE than your bargain basement factory barrel. Don't even think you're running with Hart or Shilen, Pac Nor or Kreiger though.

You can also buy "large" size bolt heads for your savage. You can make a small bolt face bolt (223 size) a large bolt face (30-06 size). You could have a gunsmith open up a large bolt face head to the correct Sweed size and swap your bolt head when you swap your barrel. Both can be done a home. A spare bolt head is about $15. For me if with a Savage, I'd do this even if the Savage bolt I had was a standard large face.

The difference in case head size is not as much a problem as it appears to be. I use primarily Lapua 6.5x55 brass, and they all fit my .30-06 case holder (RCBS #3). With Norma brass, perhaps 2 out of 10 cases are too large to fit my case holder. In evaluating whether to go with the .270 Win or the 6.5x55, IMHO, the choice should be determined by whether you reload or not. If you don't reload, then I would stay with the .270, as the commercial 6.5x55 is seriously downloaded due to there still being single-lug Norwegian Krags out there. However, if you reload and are using a modern action, you will find a MUCH better selection of high BC bullets, and you can reload the 6.5x55 to modern pressures (60k psi) and enjoy a light recoiling and flat shooting cartridge. With my 28" Obermeyer, I send 139-142gr bullets out at 2900-2950fps, which requires only about 25.5MOA of up to reach 1k from a 100 yard zero.

Don

I have a 1903 M96 Swede and lots of ammo for it.

So, if I changed the Savage 110 270 action, would the long action work?

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Sure, the 6.5x55 is a long action cartridge. Simply order a barrel and you are GTG.

Don

So, if I changed the Savage 110 270 action, would the long action work?

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It will work better than you imagine. It gives you the ability to seat those long 6.5mm bullets way out and give you powder space normally hogged by the bullet.

As USSR mentioned, loaded to it's potential, the 6.5x55 just gets better. Those Swede's knew how to design a winner in 1892.



NCsmitty

Should be fine, but considering that you already have a 6.5x55mmSwede I would go ahead and cycle a few (Without firing!) just to ensure that they can be picked up by the bolt, will feed, and extract/eject properly.

You definitely want to reload. Commercial Swede is loaded to be safe in older small ring Mausers, Krags and other turn of the century rifles. In a modern action, loaded to its full potential, it is a superb cartridge.

My latest build was a 260 Rem and I wish I'd gone 6.4x55 instead. The brass is nicer, the bullet doesn't intrude so far into the case and it can be loaded with a little more oompf.

It's a fine round that deserves better recognition.

Savage bolt heads have several thousands of leeway around the case head at the actual bolt face. I have a couple .473" bolt heads that will actually accept a 30/30 rim. So even .480" 6.5x55 brass will not be a problem in the slightest.

I'd certainly shoot the 270 barrel first. If it's accurate I wouldn't bother to switch. The 270 is a tad more powerful and ammo is far more available.

6.5 has better selection in high BC bullets if you like long range shooting.
Laupa also make brass for 6,5x55.

yes, 6.5x55. I'm not the greatest typist.

I used a 1:8 Lilja #5 fluted on a M70 action. I may turn the barrel back and rechamber to 6.5 still. Plenty of barrel shank.

As suggested I put a 6.5x55mm cartidge in the magazine and tried to cylce it.
The bolt picked it up.
But I could not close the bolt.
The first time I tried it the cartidge stuck in the barrel.
The second time I pushed a little harder but still could not close the bolt.
But the bolt extracted the cartidge and ejected it.
I guess the reason the bolt wouldn't close is because of the case difference.

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And it shouldn't chamber in a non-6.5x55 chamber. You were only supposed to check to see if the bolt picked the cartridge out of the magazine and headed it towards the chamber.

Don