for the millionth time... yes I ran a search... cleaning GI wood without stripping it

Did you try running a search?

As far as cleaning goes, the only thing I can think of to use would be Murphy's Oil Soap... but honestly, I wouldn't even do that. Looks okay to me.

I'd try mineral spirits a little at a time and see how much color it pulls out.

Hey 1K-
I'm getting ready (as soon as I can find the time) to build a "cosmoline coffin", or as I like to call is, a "surplus sarcophagus". Essentially, you use gentle heat over the long term to bleed the cosmoline out of the wood. Kinda like how it bleeds out on a warm sunny day. Some ideas here: http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2006/lowheatmethod2/index.asp

It works pretty well from the articles on that site. They all used garbage cans and 100W light bulbs, but I propose to build a box out of scrap wood I have laying around, with a steel trough in the bottom to channel the liquid cosmo into a container for future use. I also have a heat lamp and some other goodies that should make a pretty efficient rig.

If you just want to bleed the handguard, you could certainly use an electric over, or maybe just a heat gun if you're patient.

Try naptha and a terry cloth rag. Shouldn't harm the finish.

Mals

Murphy's Oil Soap, a good wash rag, and lot's of elbow grease. It will clean, is not harsh, and will not tend to dry the wood too much. I would follow up with bioled lindseed oil after the stock dries. Buff with a soft cloth after the BLO dries, re-apply the BLO as necessary.

Murphy's Oil Soap followed by several coats of Tom's Military Gunstock Wax.

http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html

I had someone recomend Fells Naptha soap, a rag and some elbow grease. It worked like a charm on a CMP Garand I just received. Did it last weekend, did not remove any color and took off dirt/grime/stains and left the beautiful dark red color. Wish i had a picture now.

+1 on the Murphy's Soap, its what I use, an then I use Pure Tung Oil, the tung oil also penetrates an cleans as well with a good rubbing action.

Mix some BLO and mineral spirits, 50-50 mix and scrub with a piece of burlap. It will get all the grime off and will not hurt the original finish. Wipe down and give it a few coats of BLO or pure Tung oil. I think Tung oil was the original finish but BLO is a good second choice.

The absolute best (and easiest) method is to drop the wood in a tub of water, add a couple of cups of ordinary powdered laundry detergent and let it sit for a couple of days. Then remove the wood and roll it in more dry laundry soap until it's coated like fried chicken. Wrap it in a couple of layers of newspaper and put it somewhere to dry out slowly for a couple of days.

When you unwrap it, the dried soap will have turned yellow or brown and the wood will look almost like new.

1K,

I'm late in this reply, I might suggest an idea I tried, and it worked. I came into possession of an old Remington Model #33 .22 rifle, stock was very dirty from sweaty hands over the years. It was suggested to me to try an SOS pad and warm water in the sink. Please, I know this sounds crazy, it truly worked! I ran the warm water over the stock, "lightly" scrubbing with the SOS pad until I had all of the grunge removed, I was amazed! Then took a towel and dried the stock, let it sit in the bsmnt over night and then proceeded to use, again very lightly, 0000 steel wool to remove any light hairs of wood raised by the scrubbing process. I then used BLO in very light coats to cover the stock, took me about 2 weeks to get it like I wanted. There is about 90% difference in the way it looked when I dragged it home and now, hope this might help you. Your rifle looks like its going to be a dandy, just a suggestion from my stock finishing. Good Luck!

If your stock is dry do NOT use an SOS pad. The problem with using steel wool on a stock that has little or no finish is that the little bit of metal that wears off will get inside the grain. Since water is required you will see that metal rust after a while and you will get discoloration in the stock. Steel wool should only be used on a stock that already has a good finish on it.

This may sound crazy but the best and easiest method I've ever used....Wait till your wife is not around, and run it through the dishwasher on the High Temp water setting. My M1 carbine stocks came out clean as whistle, and with their cartouches intact.

Absolutely, run it thru the dishwasher, including the drying cycle. Then , you can try the other suggestions, if necessary.

Well wood finishing is what I do for a living. I would try naptha as a solvent first. mineral spirits/paint thinner is pretty oily and will most likely not work as well. also I have never tried this and take this advice with a grain of salt, but there are products called wood brighteners designed to "bleach" wood. some are actually bleach and others are not. and most of them you can dissolve in water. a mild solution of one of these type of wood brighteners may help out. However you you'll probably be applying a light coat of finish afterwords. I like a marine varnish on my guns..

After seeing your pictures I'd not try to lighten the handgaurd but darken the rest of the stock. BLO or Tung oil with a drop or two of stain mixed in will get you there. Once you get the color you want coat the whole stock including handgaurd to give an even sheen. Nice rifle.

about the only way you will be able to lighten that handguard is to sand it down. I would just leave it alone. I like the way it looks.