Really... a philips head screw?

I like philips head and flat head screws on guns, it makes them more field serviceable. I never understood the whole hex/torx/allen head grip screw fad.

It happens. The military uses the term "field expedient" - use what works.

I bought an antique Stanley plane the other day. Had a Briggs & Stratton carbourator screw holding the handle in. Dad-blamed thing was cross-threaded and when I tried to take it out, it snapped off below the surface.

:banghead:

Q

The military uses the term "field expedient" - use what works.

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Designed in the field? Built in the field?

How many carry a phillips #2 in the field?

I bought an antique Stanley plane the other day. Had a Briggs & Stratton carbourator screw holding the handle in

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Did the pull-start work?

I like philips head and flat head screws on guns, it makes them more field serviceable. I never understood the whole hex/torx/allen head grip screw fad.

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Surely you've seen your share of messed up phillips and flat-head screws? I get that you can use one size driver on multiple size screw heads with these systems but it's one of those "one size fits all...but not very well" type of things for me.

I have a BMW that's full of Torx head bolts and screws. Not one of them is stripped or rounded off. It's annoying when you buy a used gun and the flat head screw heads are mangled.

For something as precise (and sometimes costly) I'll take the Torx or hex over phillips and flathead.

Slot head screw would be my LAST choice...I would prefer a Phillips over them anytime. Next favorite would be Allen then Torx as the top choice...

To me, a philips head screw on a firearm looks WRONG. I know that feeling has no practical basis, as philips head screws are functionally superior to slotted, but it just looks so CHEAP.

I have a BMW that's full of Torx head bolts and screws. Not one of them is stripped or rounded off.

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If I had nickel for every socket head/torx/ribe/spline/modified torx/inverted torx I've had to drill out, I'd retire. I'll agree that the're vastly superior to slotted or phillips screws in most applications, but they have their drawbacks. And the European automakers have a nasty habit of putting them in a place where you have to remove 7 other things to get a straight shot at them, where I could use a wobble socket if they'd just install normal hex bolts instead.

If I had my way, everything would be put together with 12 point washer head bolts

Dentite said:

Surely you've seen your share of messed up phillips and flat-head screws? I get that you can use one size driver on multiple size screw heads with these systems but it's one of those "one size fits all...but not very well" type of things for me.

I have a BMW that's full of Torx head bolts and screws. Not one of them is stripped or rounded off. It's annoying when you buy a used gun and the flat head screw heads are mangled.

For something as precise (and sometimes costly) I'll take the Torx or hex over phillips and flathead.

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Jeep Wranglers used to be filled with Torx bolts as well. I had to grind off or drill hundreds of those.

Allen and Torx have thier place. But not under the hood of a car. Too hard to reach and limited acces favors standard bolts.


OP: Just pull that screw and match it's threads up with a allen screw at Ace Hardware.

That would be worth asking...$25.00...maybe $50.00 off.

Works for me.

I enjoy the philips head screws on my 2nd Gen Smiths. For these guns I have always considered it a plus when they are present.

BTW, other than 2nd Gen Smith almost all of my grip screws are or have been replaced by hex/torx/allen head, when possible.

The grip screws on my CZs are Phillips. I never considered that a minus.

An example.

I prefer Phillips to slotted, but that image looks like a "shade tree mechanic" modification.

MachIV and Zerodefect...good points. I personally think there is a big advantage in a bolt/screw head that doesn't require the application of constant steady force in the opposite direction you are trying to get the screw to move (as in unscrewing a stubborn phillips head screw...you have to keep constant pressure to avoid stripping).

I have no problem with hex-head bolts. I just think that when comparing phillips head screws and slotted screws you have a much less chance of stripping/mangling the head due to the intimate way the correct size driver engages the head of the screw. Now if everyone used the correct size of hollowgrind slotted driver there would be a lot less mangled slotted screw heads out there.

Phillips on a gun just looks out of place to me. Looks like hardware store fix. I enjoy milsurps and it annoys me to get a gun with mangled slotted screw heads.

Torx head is lot harder for the average joe to screw up and just looks better. Allen looks better as well but IMO it's a lot easier to strip.

12 point washer head bolts might be a wee bulky for guns though!

This to me just looks better than phillips or slotted:

12 point washer head bolts might be a wee bulky for guns though!

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Agreed, and torx or socket head are best for a gun, where access is easy, the right size will most likely be used, and they're unlikely to have the heads filled with dirt or rust.

I was really referring to automotive applications, just didn't specify. Ya gotta admit, aside from allowing the highest torque application with a smaller head, they just look dang clean on a car. When I build a motor, I spend about $130 average replacing hex bolts with stainless 12 pointers.

I dislike slotted screws in any application. They always seem to get bunged up as time goes by and have sharp edges which can cut you.

Phillips is a second choice because they do not tend to be sharp when bunged up...just extremely hard to remove.

Hex and Torx are best. They are also usually made of better steel. It used to be in our supply department that a SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screw) was a grade 5 or better. While anything with a slot of phillips head was grade 3 at best. So along with the better head design came better grade steel.

That is one thing about Smith autos that has always galled me! I would prefer an Allen or Torx tip in that instance.

slotted is best imo. phillips is the worst. All other styles have their niche but imo they are not the best option for firearms...however they are obviously much better than phillips.

A slotted screw can always be repaired. Phillips cannot.

But the truth is, unless you are an idiot or just plain lazy, you should never damage a slotted screw. Phillips screw heads on the other hand WERE DESIGNED FROM THE BEGINNING TO SLIP. THEY DESIGNED THEM THAT WAY ON PURPOSE.

That is just a stupid concept for a firearm, unless you keep a stockpile of spare screws of all sizes.

That is one thing about Smith autos that has always galled me! I would prefer an Allen or Torx tip in that instance.

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So change it out. Less than $1 at your local Ace or True Value.

FYI, the 3rd gen guns have no screws whatsoever except for rear sight set screw (Or windage and elevation adjustment for adjustable rear sight)

I prefer slotted screws...of course I am smart enough to use the proper sized screwdriver to avoid damaging them as well. Damaged screws are a great way to tell if a wanna be gunsmith has been inside the gun. My Parker is over a hundred years old and the screws slots all look perfect.

Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers.

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Jeep Wranglers used to be filled with Torx bolts as well. I had to grind off or drill hundreds of those.

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That has more to do with the poor material used for the fastener, NOT the head design. A hex nut bolt head will round over easily with the same poor material..

That has more to do with the poor material used for the fastener, NOT the head design. A hex nut bolt head will round over easily with the same poor material..

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The two most common causes of socket head or torx-type screws being buggered are debris or corrosion that won't allow the tool to insert fully, or a tool twisting/rounding (the latter of which which often rounds the head out as a result).

Hex bolts, if the correct size socket is used, will break off before rounding.

Use the right tool. 12 point sockets no more belong on 6 point bolts than torx drivers should be use for triple square fasteners.

Hex bolts, if the correct size socket is used, will break off before rounding.

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That' the problem right there. How many cresent wrenches, cobination wrenches are used on fasteners under a hood. I won't get into pliers.. and of course UNDER a hood, many many times your option to get a 6 point socket on it, is impossible, so you spend an eternity with the open end wrench flipping over and over. But in those cases, even a torx head would be impossible to reach.

Use the right tool.

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Best advise ever...doesn't matter what kind of fastener it is, if you use the right tool all work fine.

Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled, to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers.

Greg528iT said:

That has more to do with the poor material used for the fastener, NOT the head design. A hex nut bolt head will round over easily with the same poor material..

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That is a bald faced lie!!

anytime the driver "cams out", damage will be done to BOTH the driver AND the screw head.