Really... a philips head screw?

I hate how Torx can cam your bit out if you don't hold it in forcefully enough. And it's still a way clunky 3/8" wrench and bit, compared to a thin Snapon combo wrench.

And blasting mud out of all the bolts on a Jeep that lives in mud is a bit of a problem.

Those are grade 8 and grade 10 (seatbelts, body mounts). Not weak steel at all. But it seems that Torx is harder to properly machine and Torx tool bits are harder to get in proper specs. I use Snapon Torx bits only. My generics just tear Torx up bad, poor fit.





Another 2 technicians tips that applies to gun screws as well:

1.)Allways grab your SAE allen drivers first. If your allen screw head is metric, allmost allways there is a SAE bit that will fit that metric head a bit tighter.

2.) Opposite for regulars bolts (because they are the opposite of allens) . Grab your metric combo wrenches first. They usually fit tighter. I haven't touched my SAE combo wrenches in weeks, and all my 9-5 work is SAE.

^torx is designed with enough slop so that the bit acts as a wobble-drive. This is why I like allen wrenches better than torx. I also HATE torx drive deck screws and drywall screws. The wobble-drive effect basically makes it impossible to to "stick" a screw onto the driver bit. Square drive is best for drywall and deck screws...it would probably also be better for firearms too, but I've never seen square drive screws on a firearm.

That is a bald faced lie!!

anytime the driver "cams out", damage will be done to BOTH the driver AND the screw head.

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I could do without the bald face lie part.
also depends on the hardness of the driver "bit". Some bits wear faster than others. As for how the author (Wiki based quote), intended driver, I assumed they meant both the bit and the drill / driver mechanism.

^I hope you realize I was criticizing not your words, but the quote you posted. I didn't make that perfectly clear in my post.

With any screw on a gun - or anything else, for that matter - there is always a chance it will back out and loosen. This is particularly true of anything mounted on the slide of an autoloading pistol. The slide is quickly accelerated and slammed to a stop on both directions and ends of its travel. The screw holding the ambidextrous safety lever to 2nd Generation S&W pistols was notorious for backing out and getting lost, causing the lever to fall off. You may note that those of the Third Generation are pinned. I've also had sight adjustment screws back off and cause the sight to shift. The worst example was an early SIG 1911 I had, which had a little threaded circular plug in the slide - which required a special spanner wrench - that retained firing pin safety parts. This completely fell out, shedding the parts on the range floor to be mixed with the brass; I didn't even bother to look for them. The replacement gun I received did away with this feature. I wonder why.

I think people on this thread are failing to realize one very important aspect of firearm hardware...guns use NONSTANDARD threads. You can't just go to a hardware store and buy a spare screw. for all intents and purposes, you are going to make do with the screws the gun came with. Sure you can order spares from the factory, but that is a pain.

If you resign yourself to the possibility of never getting a replacement screw, then you should quickly realize slotted screws are the ONLY option. They can always be repaired. If you don't have the correct fitting screwdriver, you can always CUSTOM MAKE ONE for a perfect fit.

brownells is your friend.

murf

meh. Brownells is not as handy as a set of tools.

Yeah, good luck finding 6-48 thread screws at the hardware store.

I dont like using allen wrenches on guns. I dont mind them so much on cars because there aren't that many, and most of the time, a set from 1/4 to 3/8 in 16ths works (or 5mm to 10mm).

The thing I hate about allen fasteners on guns is they typically go in 32nds or 64ths. I had one set of allen wrenches for guns that went from 7/32 to 5/64 in 64ths, which needed replaced with another that added 1/16th and .050.

I swear its a racket. They're in bed with the tool companies. I thought had enough of this when I had to buy SAE and metric tools to work on one car.

The two most common causes of socket head or torx-type screws being buggered are debris or corrosion that won't allow the tool to insert fully

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Of course, one easy way around that is to tap the tool into the fastener with a hammer.

The problem is, as mentioned in another post, you typicly have to remove a bunch of crap to get a straight shot at them.

torx is designed with enough slop so that the bit acts as a wobble-drive

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Buy better drivers or higher quality fasteners. They should fit pretty tight.

Yeah, good luck finding 6-48 thread screws at the hardware store.

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There are a couple pretty close to me that carry that sort of specialty fastener. A&A tradin' post in Denver (technically Englewood) is one such place. Nuts/Bolts, Taps and Dies from 00-90 to 2-1/2". The only thing I've ever not found there was a 1/2-20 LH die (they did have 1/2-13 LH). I know not everyone is so fortunate, but just sayin'..........

Another 2 technicians tips that applies to gun screws as well:

1.)Allways grab your SAE allen drivers first. If your allen screw head is metric, allmost allways there is a SAE bit that will fit that metric head a bit tighter.

2.) Opposite for regulars bolts (because they are the opposite of allens) . Grab your metric combo wrenches first. They usually fit tighter. I haven't touched my SAE combo wrenches in weeks, and all my 9-5 work is SAE.

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Tip # 3:

If your socket head is rounded out, find the torx bit just a little bigger and mash it in there with your BFH

^yeah you can mash a torx in there, or turn it into a slotted screw by grinding a slot in it like it should've had in the first place.

How about this for a flat-head screw on a gun:

i dont see a problem. a screw is a screw and the military does use them to make them more field serviceable. you cant deny that philips and flathead screwdrivers are much more common. they're on almost every multitool and many soldiers carry them.

all I know is my OCD kicks in when i see the straight slot grip screws and they're facing opposite ways, just looks bad to me...the hex head screws just make it a non-issue and feel better to me, like I won't strip em.

all I know is my OCD kicks in when i see the straight slot grip screws and they're facing opposite ways, just looks bad to me...the hex head screws just make it a non-issue and feel better to me, like I won't strip em.

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What about making sure the flats of the hex are paralell?

(Now it's gonna bother you hahaha)

Mighty putty works good too.