Woe is me, for my A1 receiver cannot be removed.

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As I mentioned, I've seen at least a few that took the use of a pipe wrench (and a cheater bar) to get them loose. I just figure that on some, they have to really over torque the nut to get everything to line up for the gas tube and when you combine this with a failure to use any sort of anti-seize compound, you could have a problem.

Do not use anti-seize on the barrel nut, it causes corrosion. Use moly grease as specified in the 23&P. Do not use grease with graphite in it either. A pipe wrench to remove a barrel nut is OK if the nut is already fubar, but a serviceable barrel nut can be easily removed with a good quality barrel nut wrench. Like the ones PRI sells.

I believe it is common to remove the FSB and FH to change barrels, but it's not necessary if you're going to reuse the existing barrel nut and delta ring assembly.

Agreed, but this was a upper only change, no need to touch the FH or FSB. This should have been a under one hour job.


Please excuse my incorrect vernacular. I mean the...flat sides on the flash hider that one can use to take it off (unless its permanently attached of course).

If this so called 'gunsmith' rolled the flats on the FH it's probably pinned and welded. This may have damaged the barrel. A screw on FH should come off with light pressure from a wrench. The FH is not torqued on that tight, it should have a peel washer or crush washer behind it for clocking if it's requires clocking, ie birdcage or phantom style.
 
A pipe wrench to remove a barrel nut is OK if the nut is already fubar, but a serviceable barrel nut can be easily removed with a good quality barrel nut wrench. Like the ones PRI sells.

Yeah, the choice of the term "anti-seize" was not the best. I keep a tube of moly grease on my bench for such uses.

As for my choice of tools, you use what you have to and to infer that I could have easily removed any particular nut simply by using a different type of wrench is really presumptuous.
 
i think madcrate may mean anything with graphite in it beacause graphite corrodes aluminum

permatex anti seize

Product Features
Contains high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier
Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
Provides good electrical conductivity
Suggested Applications; Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections
 
I called Bushmaster today and they offered to not only take the barrel off, but put my new receiver on for an extra $40 or less depending on work time, as well as pay the shipping. I decided to take them up on the offer and let the "pros" handle it. Sounds like a good deal to me; best way to make sure the job gets done as well as very cost effective. It beats either buying a new upper assembly (complete, or semi-complete), having to find someone else who is experienced with stubborn Bushmasters, or trying to wing it myself even though I am just learning how all this works.

I'm wondering if they have a way of removing and replacing a "permanent" flashhider. It's not as pretty since that gunsmith got to it.

Thanks everyone for the info. I have learned a lot about my rifle from this.
 
bushmasters customer service is some of the best in the industry, although they get a bad rap by some of the chart thumpers around the internet.

i have kimbers, colts, remingtons, brownings, savages, rugers, springfields, h&r's, along with more than 1 bushmaster, and their customer service is second to none.

you get to talk to an actual living human on the first try.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news....BUT.... I believe something may have been overlooked. I think YHM uppers have M4 ramps and Bushy barrels do not. Your pieces may not be compatible. Might wanna check this before you ship parts. If it were the other way round you would be good.

Open up and check your feedramps. If you look at the YHM upper it should have ramps machined into it. The Bushmaster will just have them on the barrel extension and not the receiver.

Eta: if I'm right this will create a lip where the barrel overhangs the feed lips creating a feeding issue.
 
That upper has M4 feed ramps (extended).

Just for reference,

feedramps2.jpg
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news....BUT.... I believe something may have been overlooked. I think YHM uppers have M4 ramps and Bushy barrels do not. Your pieces may not be compatible. Might wanna check this before you ship parts. If it were the other way round you would be good.

Most newer A1 and A2 uppers from BM have M4 ramps. I have a A1 with M4 ramps and two A2's here I'm working on that have them. The early stuff from the 90's probably do not have them.
 
I finally got the gun back a couple days ago with my A3 receiver put on. They charged about $60 total, but did a good job.

IMG_0221.gif

But, for some reason the spring on the ejection port cover is not set right. Meaning it is not twisted for tension, just slid on. I'm not sure why they would even take it off. It's not a big deal, I can fix that myself.

They also failed to send me back the old A1 receiver. I called them today to ask them about it. The CS rep told me that they will look into it and call them back Monday. If it turns out what I say is true they will give me a new A1 receiver. I really just want my old one back so I can sell it, but if that's what they want to do.

Do companies usually keep old parts when you send something in? I thought they would assume I would want it back. Oh well the A3 is on and I'm good to go. :D

Until I can decide on a better optic I have a centerpoint 1x25mm $50 walmart special on it. It seems like a good red dot for the money. I really like its compact size. It has red and green as well as four different recticles including single dot, three dot, a center dot with two horizontal and one vertical bar at the bottom and a circle/cross hair with a dot in the center. I went with the tapco riser.
 
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That looks like a 14.5" barrel with a pinned Phantom flash hider. No wonder your "gunsmith" couldn't get it off with a wrench.
 
Ben, did you ask them about the dust cover spring? I usually install that before I put the barrel on and I really don't know if it can be removed and/or installed without taking the barrel nut loose. I've never tried. I'm only mentioning it because it would really suck if you tried to do it yourself and then not be able to and then have them tell you that it's your problem because you messed with it.
 
Tony, I didn't bother to ask CS about it because I'm almost certain they wouldn't be able to give me answer because tracking down the person who monkey'd with it would probably not be easy. What am i going to get? An apology? I still had to put it back on myself so it doesn't really matter to me.

What I did was remove the c clamp and pull the rod out the back. I did put a generous amount of rem oil on the outside of the receiver before I did this to reduce friction. I used a set of needle nose pliers with a towel over the rod. Then I torqued the spring properly, re-inserted the rod and put back that EVIL little c clamp and I now have a properly functioning ejection port cover again. I've heard this method can bend the rod, but I haven't had that happen yet. This was the second time I did it.

For God sakes Eugene Stoner, why a teeny, tiny C Clamp?!! :D At one point that thing jumped away from me like a tiny flee. Luckily I found it on the ground after 5 min of searching and put it back in its place using tweezers and a small flat head screwdriver to push it on.
 
Oh, Ok. Good deal. I just wasn't sure that there was enough room to remove the pin. No big deal then.
 
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