Home made molds

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blarby

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Ok, again, I'm cheap.

I made some ingot molds today by carving them out of wood.

Some of them turned out really good.

I now have four that weigh out at 1/4# a piece, and one that weighs out at 1/2# a piece.

Unlike muffin-pan ingot molds, these ingots actually fit in a lee furnace, or any furnace for that matter.

Once I get my memory card fixed, I will post pics !

Total cost : ZERO...made 'em outta scrap oak. They work real good.
 
Do it outside.

Otherwise, you will have to call the fire department and call them off when the wood smokes out in your house and sets the smoke detectors off.

Cheap Muffin pans are still the cheapest way to fly.

Nobody says you have to fill them clear full so they won't fit in a pot.

rc
 
This is what happens when you sit muffin pans on wood. I would not want the lead to touch it directly. It's also going to be a good insulator and the ingots are going to take longer to harden.
7d6d5b42.gif

I have to replace the 2x4s about every 750#s. That seems to be when they start to smolder and smoke.


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Cast 40#s with them so far.

Works like a charm.

Wouldnt dream of casting inside anyways....

Hard dry woods don't smolder and smoke. Cheap wet pine does.

muffin pans = $

Oak scrap = O

These would be the cheapest way to fly with my math.

I guess I should have mentioned that those werent weight approximations by some weird calculation.... they were the weights of the cast ingots.

I'm already using them... during a lead melting break I came in to post of my days work.

I appreciate all the naysaying, it makes me want to make ten more of them tomorrow..it really does.
 
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The ones on the left are the 1/4 #'ers, the ones on the right are the 1/2 #'ers, and that bucket at the end is the 15#'s of .311 buckshot I cast today.


Pretty productive !
 

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Cool stuff! I would have never thought of using wood molds, but if they work for you then right on.

I'm sure you are taking precautions, but it may be worth some caution if others read the thread in the future. Wood begins to break down into combustible gasses near 575 F which is lower than where we smelt.:fire: The charring may help isolate some heat transfer for future use, but I would make sure there is no ignition source nearby. The other concern is that wood readily absorbs moisture and nobody wants a visit from the tinsel fairy.

It sounds like you have a good method though, so stay safe and have fun :)
 
ahhh, the tinsel fairy !

hate that chick ! She "pops up" once in a while in the 6 cavity mold while water quenching !

Rest assured, the wood is kept dry.
 
I appreciate all the naysaying, it makes me want to make ten more of them tomorrow..it really does.

Hey, if it works for you and you're satisfied with the results and you're taking standard precautions, have at it. More power to you.

$0.00 cost=more $$$$$ for other stuff, looks like a win win to me.
 
I use old bed frame angle iron cut to length with other short pieces of it welded onto the ends with the center in a V for my ingot molds. Free to me for everything but the welding rods/electricity used to stick the ends on. They do not smoke or burn either.:p I am all for doing things with the least amount of money around here with found items also. I am afraid the oak planks would have cost me more because I would have to purchase them than the free scrap steel I found at the landfill in my case however.:scrutiny: Never did like muffin tins for this.
BTW How is the buck shot production going? Does it take about the same time as regular bullets? With the quenching and all.
 
I have cast iron muffin pans I got out of the trash. Free, and work great. I also have a Lee ingot mold, but the handle burned off. I had to start using locking pliers on it.

Nice looking ingots. I wonder what mold life is.
 
I picked up a muffin pan for 25¢ at a rummage sale.
(haven't started casting yet, but I will as soon as I can find a source of lead)

Yes, that's more expensive than the OP's wood, but also far more durable.

Especially in these drought-filled times, Please stay safe my friends.
 
Just be careful, pour the first one slowly in case the woood absorbed any moisture since the last time it was used. It's so humid here in Florida that if I stir with a paint stick that was kept in the garage, lead will splatter pretty bad. Not quite a tinsel fairy explosion, but any amount of splatter isn't good.
 
I'll keep a tab on how long they last.

The wood seared in pretty good.

other than the three 1/4 #'ers linking together ( the wood between them broke out while vigourously tapping the ingots out ) I haven't seen any real change yet.

I expect good lifespan, as high-temp seared hardwood is incredibly hard. This is what they used to use for casting small iron and later steel implements like arrowheads, cinch pins, pommels and the like.
 
Well-seasoned oak is a fantastic material (the Creator liked it so much, he made trees out of it!). I'll be very interested to know how these hold up, blarby... especially as I'm reasonably sure fire-hardened oak, properly done, has interesting furniture applications...
 
These were free. I made them from scrap 3" channel and 2" angle. They are 6" long. Filled half way the ingots wejgh 4 pounds and will fit the Lee 10 pound bottom pour. Fill them all the way and the ingots weigh 8 pounds.

ry%3D400.jpg

ry%3D400.jpg
 
These were free. I made them from scrap 3" channel and 2" angle. They are 6" long. Filled half way the ingots wejgh 4 pounds and will fit the Lee 10 pound bottom pour. Fill them all the way and the ingots weigh 8 pounds.

ry%3D400.jpg

ry%3D400.jpg
RustyFN, I am planning on making some for blarby that way but health issues have knocked me down.
As for wood molds, what ever gets you by on the cheap and works.
Blarby is a neighbor and what I saw seems to look great,( not that giving me one has affected my views, is just a coincident).
 
I really like those molds, rusty !

I like that they are high weight, but still fit in the pot !

The combination of a relatively small opening, and that trigger pin in the middle makes it real tricky.

Job well done !

I have a lee 20# pot on the way, I hope Ditchy gets them molds done soon....its gonna be a hungry beast !

@ scott : I tapped them with a spade bit. The screw in the center both covers the spade hole, and acts as a shield for the hottest part of the initial pour to hit...sparing the wood from the absolute hottest metal. After tapping them, I smoothed the wood with a porous dremel wheel till it was baby smooth with no concave or convex portions. During the finishing, I put a slight bevel on each one, so two hard raps of the mold on wood knocks the ingots loose. The middle mold was originally three single pieces...but the space between them was thin, and got knocked/notched out with the removal of the ingots. Now its 3 1/4#'ers that have a little sprue to connect them, which is kinda handy for storage. You can just snap them off with a twist.

The one I made for ditchy is perfect...three of the 1/4# holes tapped a little thin, and linked together about halfway. At full and rounded its a half #, under level ( the way they look perfect ) its about 6 oz's.

I have high hopes for these !

Ditchy said he has a line on some more oak, so I'm gonna try some different designs , mainly linked larger spade bit hole sizes and see how they turn out.

Thanks for the support !
 
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I've decided to just use the 1/2# mold for now...as its thinner than the others, and they will remelt faster.

Cast about 20#'s more through it today.... no issues.
 
I also made some out of 2" angle and the ingots should fit any pot but last time I smelted 800 pounds of WW's and haven't needed to smelt since I made them.

ry%3D400.jpg

ry%3D400.jpg
 
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