Marlin 336 advice new ss or old blue?

RAINS · Oct 9, 2012

Ok I know from the massive 128 page thread you guys are here. (I did get to page 5 but then I got a headache, sorry)
Anyway been looking at a Marlin 336ss as my next gun. Right now I don't have any real fun guns around. My last fun take anywhere gun was an Indian 7.62x51 enfield. Loading up 200 low recoil LRN rounds made for a great cheap shooting afternoon. I miss thous times. Have a few questions for the experts before I make my mind up.

1. This is the big one. Do I A. buy a new shiny SS 336? Or B. Get a used pre-2007 blued. (I want the ss one scene by the time I pay for a nice durable finish the cost will be about the same. And there will still be that bare carbon steel bore) I feel like my choices are well made and rusty or bran new shiny lemon.
2. Can one really take down Elk with a 30/30? (aside from a rabbit, a rabid raccoon and a cat by accident with my car I've never hunted. But I'd like too (in 2013) and I'm in a big Elk area (southern Willamette Valley of Oregon. It's really brushy too!
3. Is 30/30 cheap/easy to reload for? Can I load cheapie lead bullets for 200 yard or less practice? Rarely ever shoot beyond 150ish yards. At the local gravel pit 6-miles away we are talking 60-80 yards.
4. I do plan to scope it out. I don't have great eyes and was thinking Leopold 3-9x40. Any thoughts?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be helpful. So would cool 336ss pictures. Thanks!

Abel · Oct 9, 2012

1. While Remington has shown that their second ever run of lever actions are at least 50% better than the #1 run, I will wait until their crew is on run#29 or so. I have never heard anything negative about the bores of any Marlin. Between the two rifles that you described, I'd go with the pre-2007 blued 336. But there are 336's everywhere. Why limit yourself to these two?

2. Elk within 100 yards with 170gr 30-30 is completely legit. There are even 190gr Buffulo Bore bullets that penetrate even better.

3. Yes, very easy to load for, very cheap, cast lead works great in micro-groove rifling if you will read up on sizing and gas checking.

4. A 3-9x40mm is about one size larger than you'll need, and many think that anything larger than a 2-7x32mm looks funny, but about 25% of all lever action users think any scope looks like crud on a lever action. I like a 3-9x40mm on a 336 myself.

Abel · Oct 9, 2012

336SS-LTD...not mine!

BSA1 · Oct 9, 2012

1. This is the big one. Do I A. buy a new shiny SS 336? Or B. Get a used pre-2007 blued. (I want the ss one scene by the time I pay for a nice durable finish the cost will be about the same. And there will still be that bare carbon steel bore) I feel like my choices are well made and rusty or bran new shiny lemon.

Well if you want to avoid well made and rusty you are going to have to practice some basic gun maintenance. The stainless steel model will be more resistant to neglect but it will even require cleaning and oiling once in a while.

There are a lot of gun care products that make gun maintenance a 10 minute chore.

Ever hear of gun wipes? Rub one sheet over your gun and in the little nooks like the space between the magazine tube and barrel and the exterior is well protected.

Bore snakes makes quick work of cleaning the barrel. Run a oiled patch after cleaning to prevent rust. hey, hey, hey...cut off a piece of that gun swipe you just used to wiped down your gun and run it down the barrel. Presto!

2. Can one really take down Elk with a 30/30? (aside from a rabbit, a rabid raccoon and a cat by accident with my car I've never hunted. But I'd like too (in 2013) and I'm in a big Elk area (southern Willamette Valley of Oregon. It's really brushy too!

It would not be my first choice but I would use it if it was all I had. You don't mention the distance you will be hunting. My choice if I was buying a lever gun would be the 38/55.

3. Is 30/30 cheap/easy to reload for? Can I load cheapie lead bullets for 200 yard or less practice? Rarely ever shoot beyond 150ish yards. At the local gravel pit 6-miles away we are talking 60-80 yards.

The 30/30 is a bottleneck so you have to pay attention to properly adjusting your reloading dies. There is a large selection of suitable bullets and powders out there.

I have never had issues with the micro-groove barrel and lead bullets.

The 38-55 on the other hand is a straight wall case.

4. I do plan to scope it out. I don't have great eyes and was thinking Leopold 3-9x40. Any thoughts?

Yep. You totally ruin main advantage of a lever action rifle, it's light weight and easy handling characteristics.

You mention it being bushy. A scope is a poor choice for woods hunting. Lots of dark areas and shadows.

A 3X9 40 is way over powered for 60 - 150 yards shots.

The best choice is a reciever mounted peep rear sight. I would toss around the idea of a Tru-Glow front sight depending on how bushy the woods are.

Or just go to the Eye Doctor and get new glasses.

jim243 · Oct 9, 2012

Finish is really personal choice. Stainless maybe a bit less maintenance needed, but the blued finish is easy to maintain. As to caliber I would suggest the 35 Remington instead of the 30/30. They are easy to reload and range from 180 grain to 220 grain bullets.

As to the scope the 3-9x40 is pleanty, I keep mine at 3 to 4 power, also used a set of see through rings so I can use the iron sights if needed.

Jim

McBuck · Oct 9, 2012

BSA1 has answered your questions like a lever gun officianado. Those are all good sound answers. There is nothing at all wrong with the blued gun, and with basic maintance like he said, the gun will last a lifetime. My 336RC was made in 1968, and still looks and shoots like new, and I just bought it less than a year ago....cost effective at $265.00 out the door.
Absolutely nothing wron with a good peep sight such as you can find at Skinner Sights, or XS Sights...check out Lyman and Williams too. If you opt to go with a scope, look at the lower power 2-7x20 Leupold...bout $300.00 or the Weaver Classic V 1-5x20 for $165.00..both are great glass for the money.....and if you want to learn even more about lever guns....try marlin owners...

http://www.marlinowners.com/index.php

all they do there is lever guns.

mdauben · Oct 9, 2012

You've already gotten some good responses, but that won't stop me from putting in my own 2¢

1. This is the big one. Do I A. buy a new shiny SS 336? Or B. Get a used pre-2007 blued. (I want the ss one scene by the time I pay for a nice durable finish the cost will be about the same. And there will still be that bare carbon steel bore) I feel like my choices are well made and rusty or bran new shiny lemon.

There are plenty of good, used 336's around with sound, rust free barrels. That said, if you really want the new stainless gun I would not be totally against it, as long as you can do a good inspection of the gun in person before buying it. Check it for cocked sights, buggered fasteners, decent fit of the stock, smooth operation. Bring a handful of 30/30 snap caps and cycle them through the action looking for FTF or FTE.

2. Can one really take down Elk with a 30/30? (aside from a rabbit, a rabid raccoon and a cat by accident with my car I've never hunted. But I'd like too (in 2013) and I'm in a big Elk area (southern Willamette Valley of Oregon. It's really brushy too!

It probably would not be my first choice for an elk gun, but with heavy bullets and within its range its acceptable.

3. Is 30/30 cheap/easy to reload for? Can I load cheapie lead bullets for 200 yard or less practice? Rarely ever shoot beyond 150ish yards. At the local gravel pit 6-miles away we are talking 60-80 yards.

Its no harder than any other bottleneck rifle cartridge. IMO 200 yards is kind of pushing the limits of the .30-30 with standard round nosed lead bullets. I see it as a 125 or 150 yard gun, which you can push over 200 yards with Hornaday's new, more aerodynamic LEVERevolution ammo (note that you can't load normal "pointy" jacketed bullets in a .30-30 due to the tube magazine).

4. I do plan to scope it out. I don't have great eyes and was thinking Leopold 3-9x40. Any thoughts?

I'm one of those who prefers apurture or "peep" sights for lever actions. I feel they look better and work fine for the practical ranges of most lever action rounds. If you do want to scope it, I mighty look at a smaller Leupold than the 3-9x40. Its a great scope, but a smaller scope might be handier on a lever action like the 30-30.

joed · Oct 9, 2012

For many years I'd only buy guns that were blued. Then I got my first stainless and changed my mind about them.

I also felt that for nostalgia purposes it would be nice to stay with blue. But as I've grown older and lazier I won't own anything but stainless.

So, buy that rifle in stainless if you want, I would. Someone will probably tell you it should be blue but I wouldn't listen to that person.

BP Hunter · Oct 9, 2012

I have the SS version and use only open sights. I do not plan to shoot it beyond 200 yards. I practice with it regularly with Hornady 160gn FTX which only costs $21 per box of 20. With enough practice you can become quite agood shot with this beautiful rifle.

moxie · Oct 9, 2012

I'd go with the used blued. I had a 336T for a long time, blued. Hunted through the woods in the rain and in the Rockies through the snow. Never any rust or corrosion. Just clean and lube whenever you have it out. No special finish required. Great gun. The 170 gr. bullet will take elk with proper placement, and remember the 30-30 is not a long range gun.

RAINS · Oct 9, 2012

Think I'll start looking for a used pre 2007. But if I can't find one Rossi makes a stainless steel 30/30 for a tick over $400 wholesale. Are they any good?

moxie · Oct 9, 2012

Stick with the Marlin.

Abel · Oct 9, 2012

Think I'll start looking for a used pre 2007. But if I can't find one Rossi makes a stainless steel 30/30 for a tick over $400 wholesale. Are they any good?

You should be able to find a great used 336C from the pre-1982 era that doesn't have the crossbolt safety. There are many of those out there sitting in pawn shops and gun stores all over the place. If you can get one of these for around $300-$375, you will be miles ahead of a Rossi knockoff.

Marlin 336 advice new ss or old blue?

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