Tell me about Saiga 308s

A lot of folks like them, me included. What barrel length? I have converted both of mine to PG config and like them just fine. Silver Bear 140 SPs work well (good luck finding any) and certain reloads are quite accurate. I have the Surefire mags for mine, but there are a few other options out there.

Again, good luck finding mags and ammo right now. Even 30 caliber bullets for reloading seem to have dried up.

M

I have a converted 16" Saiga .308 with an Ace side folding tubular stock. It's a great rifle and I'm sure you'll enjoy yours. It will happily eat any ammo you can find for it. I highly recommend doing the pistol grip conversion if it hasn't already been done. The stock trigger is one of the worst I've run across. It felt so crappy that I converted mine before it had even been fired. Saiga .308s are hard on brass, but a deflector on the rear edge of the dust cover opening helps a lot. Mine chucks it's brass about 25 feet so it's rather violent ejecting. These rifles don't really have any weak points, the most common complaint being the short sight radius and typical AK sights. I run a scope on a quick-detach side rail mount and it holds zero/repeats perfectly every time I take it off and put it back on. Mini red dot scout mounts are very popular on these rifles but I don't shoot them very well. After reading of problems people have had with all the aftermarket plastic mags I bought four 20 round steel mags from www.csspecs.com a few weeks ago. They are excellent quality, on par with or better than most steel factory rifle mags. I don't have a 'good' pic of my rifle in it's current configuration but here's the pic I do have:

Is it in pistol grip configuration or so called "sporter" configuration?

I like the Saiga 308. It is hard on brass. The twist rate is optimized for lighter bullets. Csspecs mags are definately the best choice but they are not cheap. However, they are much stronger and more durable than any of the US plastic mags.

What can you say about a fairly well built AK in .308; mine's a slant-cut reveiver thumbhole model with a long barrel. I thought about selling it and getting one that could be converted to pistol grip without a filler block, but accuracy has been nothing short of amazing (consistently ~1MOA with NATO FMJ bulk ammo) for a rifle like this so I've kept it.

It's not one of my favorite rifles, but the combination of reliability and accuracy isn't bad at all. Stock iron sights are almost useless and AK:s have a tendency to break scopes with sharp recoil so there are some considerations. Better (more durable) optics, a trigger kit, ACE stock and matching forend would improve it considerably.

I sold this one a couple years back.
never my favorite but it sure gobbled up any kind of ammo I wanted to shoot in it including some real turd Paki made stuff and my hoard of Chinese steel case.
Accuracy wa pleasantly acceptable too

I sold off the 308 I had that was the model with wood stockings. For some reason I never cared much about it. Function was good and accuracy was not the best. Trigger was horrible. Friend of mine has the Saiga with shorter barrel and plastic furniture. It puts out one hell of a fireball in bright daylight. Would love to see it at night. I do own 2 other Saigas in 223 and 7.62 X29 and won't part with either. Great shooters and for some reason the triggers are not bad compared to the 308. For 308 I now use the newly released CMP M1 Garands that have been rebuilt and rebarreledby that organization. 1000 bucks but the MCP rifles are nice to shooot.

I like my saiga 308 too. The conversion really makes em handy. Mine likes 150 SST factory ammo. It's accurate enough for deer to 250-300 yds. Mine can turn in MOA 3 shotgroups at 200 yds, but is better described as a 3.75-5 inch accurate gun at 220 yds. Depending on ammo.

With the possible exception of cutting one small square hole in the receiver, if you can assemble a bicycle, you can do the conversion on a Saiga. The hole doesn't even be that good.

The problem with the stock sporter trigger is that it has a second linkage to get the trigger into the farther back position. Part of the conversion is putting the trigger back to where it belongs. Once that is done, the trigger is plenty good for a battle rifle. But in the sporter position, it is vague, mushy and a bit heavy. If you do buy a Saiga, and plan on doing the conversion, read up on 922r compliance.

I am not certain, but I believe the Ccspecs magazine does not require the installation of a bullet guide. But I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

The Saiga 308 is a good rifle, with some interesting potential. It is an inexpensive way to get into a high power rifle.

I love my .308 saiga as well... the stock trigger was horrible... garbage.. converted before shooting as well.. I plan on taking it to shoot some feral hogs from a helicopter in a couple months... i have 24 round pmag and love it.

Have not decided on the conversion.

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Have you pulled the trigger yet on your S308. It is perhaps the worst trigger I have ever tried to use. The fact you pull it up as much as back makes it very very awkward. The trigger alone is reason enough to do it.

With the possible exception of cutting one small square hole in the receiver,

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S308s have been coming in with the pistol grip nut hole already cut for at least the last few years.

There are a few differences between doing the conversion on the S308 and all the other guns. It is still a very easy DIY project though. OP if you are interested in the differences let me know and I'll attempt to explain.

I am not certain, but I believe the Ccspecs magazine does not require the installation of a bullet guide.

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None of the S308 mags require a bullet guide. They are all designed specifically for the S308 and work without any further modification to the gun.

But in the sporter position, it is vague, mushy and a bit heavy.

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The 308s like the OP's have a different factory FCG than all the other sporter saigas. It is MUCH MUCH worse than the others as well.

Take off the dust cover, pullout the recoil spring/bolt assembly/piston rod and take a look at the convoluted linkage they use. The conversion gets rid of almost half of it.

How much would it cost to do the conversion yourself?

When you says it is hard on brass do you mean it just chucks it a ways or do you mean it will damage your brass and you won't be able to reload with it?

I don't know current prices but I use stuff from dinzag, kvar, and Carolina shooters supply. I use the dinzag 308 2 stage trigger, kvar stamped ak black poly furniture, sometimes I go for an ace sidefolder. You'll need a grip screw and nut, and a shepherds hook or other type of pin retainers. I like to use abrasive cloth and clean off the bottom well and paint black before I put on the trigger guard. I like the dinzag trigger guard. Now you got me jonesing to do one!

Take off the dust cover, pullout the recoil spring/bolt assembly/piston rod and take a look at the convoluted linkage they use. The conversion gets rid of almost half of it.

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Again the S308 has a different set up. It does not use the wishbone linkage of the other Saigas. It is still a funky set up on the S308s though. The 308, because of the upward motion, has an even worse trigger IMHO.

How much would it cost to do the conversion yourself?

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It can vary pretty widely depending on exactly what you want to do and what parts you choose to use.

When you says it is hard on brass do you mean . . .

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AKs tend to dent shell casings up. There are various things people do to mitigate this. If you do some google searches I'm sure you can find them.

Girodin I am interested in any info you can provide.

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I'll try to write something about it later, when I have a bit more time.

9thchild said:

How much would it cost to do the conversion yourself?

When you says it is hard on brass do you mean it just chucks it a ways or do you mean it will damage your brass and you won't be able to reload with it?

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Conversions cost about $150. I order my kits from Carolina Shooters Supply simply because they offer plenty of options on grips, butt stocks, fore ends, etc all from one website. You will need to order one of their safety levers, cuz you can't re-use the old one.

Saigas shoot steel cased ammo without a hitch. I prefer Silver Bear SPs. I handload brass cases to about 2600fps and they eject flawlessly without so much as a dent or scratch.

A few different mag options CSSpecs, Unita, Surefire and factories. Since I ain't parachuting into Fallujah anytime soon, I don't need 20-25 rounders. I much prefer the factory 8s (modified for 10) and 10-15 round Surefires. They are not so heavy when fully loaded...

I tried the csspec prototypes, found them crudely made with sharp edges and cheesy tac welds (newest ones MUST be better) and the Uinta way too loose and wobbly in both my rifles. These got sent back...

Anyway, videos are out there and much info can be found and questions answered on the Saiga forum http://forum.saiga-12.com/

Good Luck

M

You will need to order one of their safety levers, cuz you can't re-use the old one

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I planned to address this later. Whether you can use the factory safety lever depends on what FCG you use? With FCG's that don't paly well with the factory lever, another option is to modify either the lever or the FCG (I'd do the lever).

One route that many want to take is to get a modified Dinzag FCG. There are other issues with certain fire control groups in the S308, such as side to side play when they are installed. The dinzag unit addresses all the S308 specific issues. You simply install it.

Since I ain't parachuting into Fallujah anytime soon, I don't need 20-25 rounders.

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Senator Feinstein?

I tried the csspec prototypes, found them crudely made with sharp edges and cheesy tac welds (newest ones MUST be better)

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I've heard some of this before. I can tell you that I know Csspec has made changes over time in how the mags were being produced. The first ones were made very differently than current production. I can also tell you that what he is making now is vastly superior to the surefires I have. The surefires are lighter. However, for anything other than static shooting on a square range and carefully removing the mag and setting it down gently the Csspec is a better option.

Any of the following could be the end for a surefire:

dropping the gun

dropping a loaded mag on a hard surface

Hitting the mag on something while moving

Hitting the mag on the ground when quickly going prone

I wouldn't try an AK pushup with one either. I don't know if it would break but I don't dare try. I've done it with a Csspec.

I like my VEPR in .308. Tackdriver.