I don't know if this will help you or not, but I use this method to verify pressure.
I do have a pressure measuring device which requires me to glue a transducer on the barrel, verify brass thickness, etc., and while using this device to ascertain pressures a few years ago, I learned that a good indicator of pressures is to measure the fire ring with a good micrometer.
If you shoot remington brass, then buy a 20 round box of remington ammunition. Fire the ammunition in your rifle, and measure 5 or 10 of the cartridges at the "fire ring," the area ahead of the case head, where the powder cavity bottoms out at the web. Measure at least 3x at different locations around the circumference of the case. Write down your readings.
Using new, unfired, brass of that same brand, do your load progression and measure the fire ring on your reloads the same way. When the measurement on the micrometer on your reloads is the same as the factory ammo, then you have a good idea of your max load.
Sometimes I will pull the bullets from the remaining 10 rounds in the factory ammo box, and use these to arrive at the max load. Now you know your max load in that brand of cases.
Since different brands of brass have different relative powder capacity, I suggested Remington, as it is typically heavier brass than say, Winchester. But if you compare weight of your unfired cases to the weight of your factory test cases, you will have a good idea of relative powder capacities. If your new lot of brass is heavier than your test cases, then you know you will need to reduce your powder charges to avoid exceeding the maximum safe pressures.
Typically, if you are looking for brass flow into the ejector hole, sticky bolt lift, and similar signs, you have already surpassed the maximum safe load.
Personally, if I am loading at or near maximum pressures for my cartridge, I will rethink getting a bigger cartridge... i.e., maybe you would do well with a 22-250 to obtain the performance you seek.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Stubb