I built this AR and it failed. AR15 scientist help much appreciated!!!

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Guys the feedramps are fine and not the issue. The issue is Failure to extract. The fired case isnt ejecting and the bolt is cycling, picking up the new round, and mashing into the old.

As Taliv suggested, take the extractor out and inspect. OP seems to believe because he spent a lot of $$$ on a BCM BCG it is impervious to failure. BCM is quality kit, but every co. can make a mistake. Heed Taliv's advice and we will go from there.
 
Has the head space be checked? Your extractor seems ok. My next concern would be that the bolt is not going far enough forward to let the extractor pick up the case.
 
Walkalong, that certainly makes sense. Drimmle and I have work to do tomorrow but I'm a little iffy about the stainless steel. What the hell, it's only money, right?
 
Spent, "OP seems to believe because he spent a lot of $$$ on a BCM BCG it is impervious to failure." I appreciate the assistance but I can assure you this is not the case. I head up Special Projects in a mechanical engineering department. I did little research on AR mechanics before I started this project but when I had issues I certainly understand what to check when made aware. I just read a small article on the mechanics or AR 15 BCG and this one is just fine. Right now everything points to over gassing and my extremely light buffer weight but I'm not sure yet. I'll head back out to the desert again Friday morning to test for lock up after last round...which I forgot to check this morning.
 
O ring

Put in an o-ring or d- ring kit and I'll bet your problem is solved.
I had the same problem 2years ago on my first build. Ordered and installed an o-ring kit from Dillon Precision and never had another problem. I too shoot nothing but handloads.
 
Mohave-Tec said:
Spent, "OP seems to believe because he spent a lot of $$$ on a BCM BCG it is impervious to failure." I appreciate the assistance but I can assure you this is not the case. I head up Special Projects in a mechanical engineering department. I did little research on AR mechanics before I started this project but when I had issues I certainly understand what to check when made aware. I just read a small article on the mechanics or AR 15 BCG and this one is just fine. Right now everything points to over gassing and my extremely light buffer weight but I'm not sure yet. I'll head back out to the desert again Friday morning to test for lock up after last round...which I forgot to check this morning.

I didnt mean that as a slight against you, Bud. I just got that feeling from what I interpreted from your wording. Its hard to interpret context over the internet, so if I misunderstood, my apologies.

I, however, dont think it is overgassing. Syptoms over over-gassing would include bolt over-ride (or, failure to pickup new round as well as, as you seem to know, failure to lock-back). As taliv said, 18.5 middy is highly unlikely to be over-gassed. I think you prob lies in the BCG. As others have said, look into what is referred to as a "Crane O-ring". Good luck, and keep us posted.:)
 
I may have to back up a step. I bought go/no go gauges when I started this assembly. Without taking the bolt apart, both gauges served their purpose admirable. The bolt closed on the Go gauge and did not close on the No Go gauge. Good enough.
But just now, on everybody's prompt, I just disassembled the BCG less the ejector. I don't have a punch here that is small enough for that; I left it in. With mostly disassembled bolt, bolt closes over the Go gauge and is flush with the receiver in the back. With the No Go gauge, bolt less extractor, cam and firing pin, bolt closes on the No Go gauge and is still flush with the back of the receiver.. So, what is that?
 
Fail to Feed is the magazine. Fail to extract is usually bolt related. You might be damaging the case when it feeds. Your ramps don't look right. They look like standard ramps on the barrel extension. I would try some new ammo, a different mag and possible changing the feed ramp.
My RRA with a wylde chamber is picking with reloads.
 
Crane O-ring would be on (over) the extractor spring.

As far as the gauges. You have a .223 Wylde chamber. Slightly looser than 223, slightly tighter than 5.56. What gauges are you using? 223, Wylde (do they make these?), or NATO?
 
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Your BCM bolt likely has a 5 coil BCM extractor spring. It is "stiffer" than most extractor springs. BCM says you "most likely" will not need the o-ring with that spring (that may be why it didn't come with one). Your set up may need it though.
 
I feel like this is being narrowed down.
Now it makes sense I don't see the Crane O-Ring. It is under the extractor OR in the bag the bolt came with. Unfortunately I can't recall an O ring in the bag and it isn't over the extractor spring so I shall pursue one immediately indeed.

Carbine, I vaguely remember fail to feed once or twice but mostly when the spent case ejected I was able to get off another round right behind it. I just look at the ramps and they tell (I assume) I am going to have feeding problems. I haven't really gotten that far yet but I'm pretty sure you are right. :banghead:

Spent, I have been thinking that the only difference in a Wylde chamber was that the neck was longer. Am I incorrect or incomplete in my thinking? If so, then maybe I have the wrong gauges or my findings are within spec? I have Forsters Go/No Go. Go at 1.4636 and No Go at 1.4666. I can't verify with instruments I have at home but I can at work this week. Anyway, I'm betting they are NATO.

Man, if it weren't 115 degrees outside (literaly) I might not be getting this wonderful education right now.
 
Knights, I just read that. It's probably why I don't have one. Anyway, when it is supplied it is usually not installed and only given as an option for the installer if I've read correctly. And it said it is less likely needed in my longer barrel. I've putting in an order anyway so I'll pick up one of these too.

Carbine, I knew when I went to the desert this morning I should have brought a different round I have developed. These short and blunt Power-Lokt loads have to do some radical moves to chamber. They did fine in my shop but not so much at speed.
 
Everybody or anybody. Am I using the wrong word when I talk over gassing? What I think I've read is that by using a heavier buffer weight I can slow the cyclic rate down ever so slightly which in turn will alow everything a little more time to do what it has to do thus smoothing out operations. Should I just get un-hung from this train of thought? I do hang on to things sometimes.
 
223 Wylde will have longer LEADE than 223 but shorter than 5.56 NATO. Kinda sorta longer neck in laymens terms but I may be out of my lane on this. Handload mod Walkalong could probably clarify this better than I. (I also am a reloader but all of my chambers are 5.56)

A heavier buffer will increase dwell time as well as slow cyclic rate, so ,yes, you are correct on that. But Im not entirely convinced at this point, that it is the cause of your problems.

IMO, you seem to be getting insufficient tension on the case rim, and your extractor is "hopping" off of your case rim during cycling.

This chart should give you an idea as to where you stand on buffer weights:
14av5o4.jpg
 
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Guys the feedramps are fine and not the issue.
Agh, I finally waded through the whole post and yes, you are right. The feed ramps do not match up though, and will cause stoppages eventually, or occasionally.

Mohave-Tec, do you have an extra bolt or bolt carrier group you can try in it? A BCG from another rifle perhaps? If that runs you will know where to look.

If you have a heavier buffer it won't hurt to try it.
 
Try a heavier buffer. The could be moving to fast and trying to pull the case out before it has contracted.
 
You guys are most appreciated. In an area where it is important that I learn or very costly if I don't, I've probably doubled my AR leanings in this thread today. I recall that I ran into an unusual number of brass that didn't want to fit in my shell holders when reloading or they were very tight. Not much of an issue when you shoot bolt rifles like I've been doing for years. I imagine this can also be critical when high speed extraction comes into play.
Ok. We've got get a Crane O-Ring, check rim depth on my cases, try H2 buffer, they a more traditional shaped/sized hand load and fix the feed ramps.
I also think that being most of my components are of reputable quality that I may just move to a better make upper before I mess with the ramps. The upper I have is well spoken of in it's circles but if I have to guess who is at fault there I'd have to say DPMS or my match barrel. If this thread continues, so be it. If it dwindles I will certainly return to let you all know how things turned out. Again, I appreciate this most valuable input more than I can express.
 
G, barnes, I have read this many times. I will invest in an H2. Anyway, with an H2 and a carbine buffer, I can concoct any intermediate buffer so I'm going to buy one 'cause I wanna buy one. LOL.
 
And you can play with the buffer spring. Companies like springco make buffer springs of different compression rates, and with the Tubb square wire spring you can whack off a coil at a time till everything works (with that particular load anyway). Seriously though, you are working with a lot of variables there. The adjustable gas block alone has driven men crazy. Patience will reward you, that's a nice looking rifle.
 
Mohave-Tec -

Either/or the Crane O-ring and H-H2 buffer would probably solve your problems. Buying both, I would be shocked if the issue wouldnt be fixed. Get both, lube well, enjoy. Good luck!

I personally use a Spikes Tactical ST-T2 buffer which is right in between H and H2 weight. Rather than solid weights it uses tungsten powder to give a "dead-blow hammer" effect. Has worked great for a PSA 16" middy gas length, FNMI A2 20" rifle gas length, and KAC SR15 proprietary gas length (longer than mid, shorter than rifle). Any of the 3 options would be an improvement over your carbine buffer.
 
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Spent, don't give me any more ideas. "Dead blow hammer effect."
I put this rifle together with a rather odd premise. I like 60gr bullets. The lower has a set screw to wedge it against the upper to take the rattle out of the gun. The buttstock cams into the buffer tube to take that rattle out. Since we are heading in the direction of smoother action I chose a muzzle break instaed of a flash hider. I am also thinking about the captured buffer spring if I ever get a warm fuzzy about what I'm already working on. Why not a buffered buffer?
 
look, the AR is a "system" and there are many things that could be close to their tolerance limit and be causing a failure together whether any one of them alone would not.

overgassing normally means too much gas. like, the port in the barrel is too large. or too close to the chamber. it's possible but unlikely in this situation.

the overgassing problem people USUALLY experience is when you have a carbine length gas where the port is closer to the chamber. that causes the gas to act on the BCG faster than normal. which in turn tries to open the bolt while the chamber pressure is still high and the brass is still stuck to the walls. in this case, the extractor can slip off. putting an o-ring inside the extractor along with the normal insert and spring can help. but it is really treating a symptom of a poor combination of parts.

another thing people do is use a heavier buffer, which also slows the bcg down a wee bit to give the chamber pressure a little more time to drop before opening.


occasionally, you also see some guy who reloads bolt guns in 223 try to use the same powder, which burns too fast for an AR, and will cause similar symptoms. so try some factory ammo here and make sure you're using a powder with the right burn rate.

again, in this situation, the fact that the gas system is mid-length means it's unlikely to be trying to open the bolt too fast. but that is what it sounds like, so who knows?


another possibility is a rough chamber. run a cotton ball in and out of the chamber and see if it snags on anything.

you should be able to move the extractor with a screwdriver but have difficulty with your fingers. so it sounds like yours has a normal level of tension.

also, i know it sound stupid, but does it extract when you hand cycle it? i mean, (point the gun in safe location and put the safety on) just use the charging handle with a full mag and pull it back and let it go several times. do the rounds come out ok by hand?
 
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