Adjustable loading lever on the gun?

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BowerR64

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Ive read that T7 doesnt like to be packed very tight i havnt tried a table top loader so im not sure if its true or not. I can see that the benifit of a table top loader is you could load every chamber with the same pressure using a stop or a sleve or some way to stop the lever arm from packing to tight.

What if you could do something simmilar right on the gun?

Maybe this has already been thought of if so can some one show me a better method?

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What you could do is load one and pack it where you feel is a decent pack. Then back the screw up till the lever touches the screw then the rest of the loads will all be the same pressure/ball hight or what ever.

I would want to pack the first, back the screw out and reload all of them over.
 

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That's neat. I also shoot 777 and have wondered about compressing it. For the past couple of months I have been trying out Alliant Black-MZ which can be compressed and has much of the same pep that 777 has IMO.
 
Here are some methods used on the Ruger Old Army. I have a couple of the brass tipped ones from Banana River. I may ultimately convert one of them to the adjustable type.

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The only issue I can see is that a mechanical travel limiter means that you need to drop the exact same volume of powder EVERY time. Otherwise sometimes you may not put the ball firmly enough onto a slightly light charge and the next time it may compress a slightly bigger charge.

I'd personally rather rely on getting a feel for the ball friction then push it down with just enough force to keep it moving so when it contacts the powder the ball stops and I would know that it's touched from that.

Obviously SOME compression is unavoidable. But I gather that 777 needs to be fully seated but not overly compressed and packed like we do with regular BP.
 
Well thats the idea when you weigh or measure the charge isnt it? to load the same amount each time?

I dont think the loads im using are that they are that far off measuring wise i think mine are how they are packed.

Im trying to eliminate some of the user inaccuracy load to load.

Im gonna try it see what changes
 
Here are some methods used on the Ruger Old Army. I have a couple of the brass tipped ones from Banana River. I may ultimately convert one of them to the adjustable type.

ruger0412c.jpg

rammer353.jpg

roa0429040014.jpg

ROArammer.jpg

Thats a cool idea for the ruger. So then my thought isnt that far off because if some one else has already done it then my thought isnt so unrealistic.

Im just a little slow and late for the party. lol
 
I've been considering, and even have a spring from the neighbor's trampoline, to use as a sort of cheater where at a given resistance it'll break giving a more consistent load.

I'm not sold on this idea that goes around the internet that T7 doesn't accept much compression. If you look at their load data it states for percussion guns:

"Seat the projectile firmly against the powder."

This is in contrast to loading in a cartridge:

"You may safely use a card or polyethylene wad up to .030" in thickness to protect the base of the bullet. Loading density should be 100% with light compression not to exceed .100". Testing has shown that Triple Seven will perform best when the bullet just touches the powder. Allow no airspace between the base of the bullet and the powder. Do not reduce loads by means of filler wads or inert filler material such as Grits, Dacron or Grex. Do not heavily compress powder charges. The use of filler wads, inert fillers or heavy compression may cause a dangerous situation, which could cause injury and/or death to the shooter, bystanders or damage property."

I've loaded mine with a good bit of force as I've done with all powders. I've no way to say that it's not been adversely impacted, but i couldn't tell a big enough difference. But I'm no pistolero either. I get better groups at 15 yds with my ROA than most of the guys with their auto loaders at 7 yds, but I'm by no means a great shot as my offhand groups are closer to 3-6".
 
Well its just one more thing to play with for me. Im sure from load to load im compressing it by just a few pounds here or there IF that because the load lever is so short you really cant pack em that hard but its always an excuse to shoot more lead you know?! :D

Here is the other idea i thought of for the remington, i havnt thought of anything yet for the colt its got a different load lever.

I have a little box of random nails i got from walmart a few years ago for around the house. Some are tacks i have these that are black to kinda match the frame color.

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I cut one down and then grind the sides down so that it wedges into the extra cut in the load arm.
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Then the head will push against the frame at the pre cut length. You could have 2-3 different lengths for more or less filler, longer conicals or wads. Easy to cut and grind and its reversable no serious modifications to the gun.

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I figured a spring would give a more consistent load pressure instead of needing to know load depth. it would work the same no matter what as long as it didn't bottom out. But I've yet to put it to any test, though I did try it once, and it seemed the springs the neighbor kids tossed over the fence were a bit too stiff, but maybe they kept the great compression at bay...
 
Do you have any pictures of your idea?

My loads are already pretty close i just need a little less travel mine start to pack hard just as the lever bottoms out so i figured if i back it off just a tad the ball would just be sitting on the powder.

But ide like to try one taller and try some filler with a light pack also.
 
with a 26g load of 2F T7 i could raise it a little more then it is now. Even with the stop i felt it pack even before the new lever stop.

Im going to try it tomorrow and see if anything changed.

I lowered the lever till it touched the frame then put a little mark on the plunger. You can see its just above by a few mm
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I agree...the only time I use the on-gun-ram is if a bullet jumped. Which doesn't happen after the first cylinder full is fired.
 
older Canon powershot A700 for distant shots 3-4 feet or further. Most closeups i use Canon Powershot S2 for most macro shots 1' to touching the lense.

Previous hobby i learned from hours and hours of trying things lighintg is the key. Once you get a good light source your good

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This is the rig i use for closeups the light is all onboard flash i built this cardboard shield that bounces the flash around inside and makes a sort of make shift light ring. The inside is lined with reflective metal tape you line cabnets with.
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They both take about the same quality images but the A700 (pocket camera) sometimes looks better because of the older 35mm slave flash i use with it. I found a little light trigger on ebay it will trigger the slave flash when the built in flash fires. I point the slave flash at the ceiling and it lights up the whole room kinda like a studio. Works slick

The S2 is 5 mega pixel, and the A700 is 6 lol!
 

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Im trying to avoid one more big bulky item to have to take with me to the range. :banghead:

My range bag is already so full of junk now its silly.

1 loader for all your guns and its not bulky at all...lose some of your other "silly junk" and give it a try :p
 
Im at the bare minimum as it is.

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Be back in a bit with my results! :D
 

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WOW! that worked great! i was about to write this gun off as a bad gun time to trade it or sell it. I figured the grouping was from the barrel cut or the pitting. This really helped alot!

So the first 4 shots were off the paper (bottom left pink X), i put on the target front sight and i think its a little to short. Its about right for the 12" barrel but now its 8" its now to short.

So the first 4 shots my aim was on the left bull (pink X) first 4 off the paper, i then lowered my aim point (dark green X) and the last 2 were on paper but high right.

I reloaded it (without cleaning or swabbing the barrel) then i aimed low left and it grouped all 6 shots pretty darn good IMO.

The targets have a grid on them, each square is 1" square. So before the grouping was about 4-5" now it is about 2-3" 15 yards.

Im going to make another load stop nail and try it again tomorrow with slightly less compression see what it does.

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Bower R64:

Pard I admire your persistence but if you want one hole groups you need to play a different game with different guns. Phil and his wife know how to maximize accuracy from a muzzleloader handgun better than I do. I cannot add to their expertise. You have your guns shooting well enough to be a formidable cowboy action competitor.

What you need to do now is buy a gun belt with some good looking holsters and a cowboy hat and join SASS. Hook up with a cowboy action shooting club near you and use those guns the way the were intended, shooting bad guys, real or imaginary. Nearly 100,000 shooters have made the leap; I have a hunch you will not regret it.

OK so this is blatant recruiting for our sport, but gee whiz its fun!!

J-Bar
SASS #18727
 
Bower R64:

Pard I admire your persistence but if you want one hole groups you need to play a different game with different guns. Phil and his wife know how to maximize accuracy from a muzzleloader handgun better than I do. I cannot add to their expertise. You have your guns shooting well enough to be a formidable cowboy action competitor.

What you need to do now is buy a gun belt with some good looking holsters and a cowboy hat and join SASS. Hook up with a cowboy action shooting club near you and use those guns the way the were intended, shooting bad guys, real or imaginary. Nearly 100,000 shooters have made the leap; I have a hunch you will not regret it.

OK so this is blatant recruiting for our sport, but gee whiz its fun!!

J-Bar
SASS #18727
You make it sound like a bad thing im trying to get some accuracy from my cheap pawn shop pistols.

Just let me have my fun you ol grinch. lol
 
You would laugh if you seen my rig, its just old junk

It's old junk used with a lot of hard earned knowledge.

Too many folks have a hard time realizing that it's more about the control of the light than it is about the camera. Your rig just reinforces that good pictures are not about the camera. Instead it is knowing and using the basics of photography and controlling the lighting. And light control in macro shots is one of the greater challenges.

Your home made ring flash box is a brilliant idea..... er.... excuse the pun... :D
 
Yeah i took alot of shots using regular room lighting and high ISO and even spent alot of money on clamp lamps and bulbs and all this extra junk i didnt need. Then i found this slave flash in a box of junk at a grage sale and instantly my shots started looking better. I tried making my own light ring with like 25 LEDs and then just for fun i made that cardboard thing and it really has worked better then i could of ever thought.

I had to tweak it a little using multiple layers of printer paper as a sort of defuser but for onboard flash some of the images come out pretty good.

There is another tip i found over time using more then one brand of camera, canon i found has the most realistic display. What i mean is what i see with my naked eye looks almost spot on with the display. If i take an image and the display looks to red, or over exsposed the image will look that way on my computer. That helps alot. Other cameras ive tried wernt like that they gave a faulse "preview" after the shot.

Digital images isnt like it was in the past its almost free so shoot more then one shot trying different settings usually out of like 5-10 you will like atleast one that will come out. Also USE YOUR MACRO! most cameras have a macro but no one ever seems to use it and they post blurry closeups that can be useful to others if it was only turned on.
 
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