Desertrat357
Member
So, this is probably a rookie question, but I need to remove the scope on my Ruger 30-06. With the weaver style bases, will I have to re-zero the scope after re-installing? Or will it hold it's zero. Thanks in advance.
Ruger MK II scope removal
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ironworkerwill
Member
It's good to check it and see where the bullets hit. You may get lucky.
cat_IT_guy
Member
Sometimes they are still pretty close to zero after remounting, but as suggested, make sure you take it to the range and confirm that and tweak if needed. Basically, dont take it off, remount it, then go deer hunting without checking it out.
Do you have Weavers, or factory Ruger rings? Just curious, but if you use care when remounting either type you should be pretty darn close enough for hunting. I've done so with both Weaver and Ruger rings in the past. The secret is to slide the rings as far toward the muzzle as you can before tightening them each time.
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
you should be able to hit paper but a trip to the range will be needed before hunting
Desertrat357
Member
That's kind of what I was thinking. I will just be happy as long as it's close. A few minor adjustments will be no big deal. I am always up to learn something new. What is the difference between weaver bases and Ruger bases? I thought they were one and the same.
dmazur
Member
Maybe a couple of links will help -
Ruger rings
Weaver rings
The first shows curved "claws" on the bottom, which engage the divots on the sides of the Ruger mounts. For recoil resistance, there is a foot which hangs down and fits a semi-circular slot on the top of the mount.
The second shows flat "claws" on the bottom, which engage the sides of the the Weaver mounts. For recoil resistance, there is a cross-bar which fits in the slots visible on the top of the mount.
They are not interchangeable.
Ruger rings
Weaver rings
The first shows curved "claws" on the bottom, which engage the divots on the sides of the Ruger mounts. For recoil resistance, there is a foot which hangs down and fits a semi-circular slot on the top of the mount.
The second shows flat "claws" on the bottom, which engage the sides of the the Weaver mounts. For recoil resistance, there is a cross-bar which fits in the slots visible on the top of the mount.
They are not interchangeable.
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hardluk1
member
Can I ask why would you need to pull your rings and scope?? It sounds like its just because you can?? I have scope base's and rings that have not been removed in 36 year.
If taking it on and off is what you need to do then buy a torque driver to try to reset the tension on the rings so the drift of your zero will be reduced. This is as low cost as one gets.
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
If taking it on and off is what you need to do then buy a torque driver to try to reset the tension on the rings so the drift of your zero will be reduced. This is as low cost as one gets.
http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S
Desertrat357
Member
Dmazur
There is definitely a distinct difference between the two. Appreciate the links! Learn something new every day!
There is definitely a distinct difference between the two. Appreciate the links! Learn something new every day!
Desertrat357
Member
Hardluk1
I have to remove the scope because the individual I bought the rifle from spray painted the entire rifle in a camo pattern. I've been carrying it like that for a few years now. But I recently bought a factory synthetic stock from Ruger. So I want to remove the paint from the barrel and receiver and return the rifle back to a more factory look. I figure in the long run it'll be less of a headache to remove the bases but leave the scope in the rings. The rings will still be camo, but I figure it'll be a momento to it's former state haha
I have to remove the scope because the individual I bought the rifle from spray painted the entire rifle in a camo pattern. I've been carrying it like that for a few years now. But I recently bought a factory synthetic stock from Ruger. So I want to remove the paint from the barrel and receiver and return the rifle back to a more factory look. I figure in the long run it'll be less of a headache to remove the bases but leave the scope in the rings. The rings will still be camo, but I figure it'll be a momento to it's former state haha
hardluk1
member
That makes sense but you do need to spend some time getting to know it again anyhow. When you get it back together take a couple shoots at 25 yards to check left to right and if your a little low, 1" to 1"1/2 it probable was zeroed for 100 yards. then you can set it how you want it. I use a 300 yards zero with a 7 rem mag.
Desertrat357
Member
A range trip will definitely happen, plus it never hurts to spend some time behind it anyways, don't shoot it enough as it is. I think I'm close to a 200 yard zero. I usually sight in at a hundred yards just because I don't have a rifle range with a bench to go farther. But anyways, I'm about 2-2.5" high at 100 yards. As always, I appreciate the help and input.
I've had multiple scopes pre-zeroed for the same rifle in the past using Weaver, Ruger and Quick Detachable mounts from Leupold. If you put the rings into the bases and slide them all the way forward before tightening them when you initially zero the rifle, and do the same when remounting, you won't have any trouble being back on zero. If there were ever any difference it was so small I couldn't detect it.
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