protecting a window

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paradox998

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I set up an indoor pistol range in my garage. I have a commercial bullet trap against a large concrete wall and with additional wood protecting the concrete around the trap. About 5 feet from the trap is a large window. I would like to provide some protection for that window. I have plenty of space above the window and would like to install a "shield" that I could lower in front of the window during target practice. I thought of a sheet of ballistic material but would see if anyone had a better idea. Suggestions? Thanks.
 
Other than not shooting in the basement? What caliber?.

Shooting lead free stuff. Got ventilation.? Do you need the light from the window?
 
Ballistic Lexan would make the most sense if you still want light to come through. Otherwise, a piece of 16 or 18 ga sheet steel will be plenty to stop richoets or bullet fragments from breaking it. If you wanted more, 1/8" mild steel will stop a direct hit from all but the most powerful handgun rounds.
 
Mild steel swinging shutters come to mind. How large are we talking? A Sliding glass door or a 3x4 window?

Given weight issues it would either have to be something light hinged from above or something heavy hinged on the sides. I've never priced ballistic panels but would not expect them to be inexpensive.
 
An indoor shooting range in your garage?

Well, other than the first impression on this idea, which is "where is this guy that he can set up a shooting range in his garage but won't (can't) shoot outdoors?", here are my thoughts:

I don't think of a garage as something substantial, though you indicate the back wall is a concrete wall. Knowing more about how your garage is constructed would be a plus. For example, most unfinished garage walls aren't anything more than 2 X 4 frame walls with plywood or OSB sheeting over it. (Vinyl siding doesn't even bear mentioning). Which means garage walls typically provide next to no protection or barrier to bullets.

So, barring any additional information, I'll just answer your window question, with a side comment about ventilation:

The main concern with your window, I take it, is rihochets. Protection against ricochets can probably be taken care of with 1/8 inch sheet steel, however you choose to put it up. Protection against direct shots, however, will have to be more substantial and is probably beyond this discussion unless you bring it up.

As for ventilation...you need it. Closed door indoor shooting shouldn't be doin without adequate ventilation which draws air in from the direction of the shooter and out in the vicinity of the target area.
 
a few updates

My garage is 2 stories, 30 x 50ft and all reinforced concrete as I am in a hurricane zone. We built it as a hurricane refuge in addition to being a garage. I have overhead fans that blow toward my workbench and another fan directed out a window. When I shoot, the over head fan directs all the fumes toward the bench and the second fan takes the exhaust out the side window. The wall section the bench is on is about 12 foot wide and the trap is centered on the bench. I am not concerned so much about missing the trap as the window is about 5 feet from the trap, but rather that a friend in handling a firearm will have a negligent discharge in the direction of the large window, which is on the same wall as the workbench, but on the other side of the building. I try to think about all the possible safety contingencies.

I have been checking on ballistic panels and it looks like a 4 x9 ft panel that is rated for a 357 is about $400, so that may be an option. It's a lot of money, but cheap if it is ever needed.
 
Get a 3/4" AR 500 panel to cover that window.

What sort of bullet trap? Absorptive or snail?
 
trap type

The trap type is a snail. It is 16" square with a snail type coil in the back. I built a heavy wood frame around it to catch or slow errant bullets before they get to the back wall. I also put heavy wood on the concrete wall behind the trap to minimize any ricochets as well has protect the wall a bit.

The trap was $350 shipped from ebay and has worked very well. Never had a round escape and 1/4 steel plates is not even scratched by the rounds. 45 is the largest round we have tried as well as 357, and it handles them well.
 
Ventilation of an indoor shooting area entails a lot more than some fans blowing and another blowing out a vent or window,.

Even small indoor ranges have intricate ventilation systems. Filters, exhaust etc. I would be more concerned over lead exposure than protecting the window, that is relatively easy.

JMHO
 
Gunfire inside a residence is illegal in VA, but I've done it. Like someone mentioned above, carpeting or rugs make a good bullet stop if you're shooting lesser calibers like .22 or .380 or .38. I have used hanging rugs outside to stop bullets after they had passed through test media, because the rugs would stop the bullet without causing further deformation.
 
"...takes the exhaust out the side window..." Quite likely in violation of a local environmental by-law(ordinance). You can't just vent to the outside any more. Mind you, the whole place might be in violation of some by-law. Not many places allow indoor ranges without a whole bunch of assorted approvals. Unless you're way out in the boonies.
Anyway, the 1/4" plate your trap is made of isn't likely to be mild steel. Doubt even a jacketed bullet would penetrate 1/4" mild steel plate though. It might with 1/8" plate. How big is the window?
Of course, buying via E-Bay has given money to the likes of the Brady Bunch and other who want to take your firearms away from you.
 
My garage is 2 stories, 30 x 50ft and all reinforced concrete as I am in a hurricane zone. We built it as a hurricane refuge in addition to being a garage. I have overhead fans that blow toward my workbench and another fan directed out a window. When I shoot, the over head fan directs all the fumes toward the bench and the second fan takes the exhaust out the side window. The wall section the bench is on is about 12 foot wide and the trap is centered on the bench. I am not concerned so much about missing the trap as the window is about 5 feet from the trap, but rather that a friend in handling a firearm will have a negligent discharge in the direction of the large window, which is on the same wall as the workbench, but on the other side of the building. I try to think about all the possible safety contingencies.

I have been checking on ballistic panels and it looks like a 4 x9 ft panel that is rated for a 357 is about $400, so that may be an option. It's a lot of money, but cheap if it is ever needed.

So what you're looking for is protection of your window from a direct shot, then. That's much more involved and will require something rated for the highest powered round you will allow in your garage.

Using a ballistics panel of some kind would work, but you need to keep in mind what they're legally rated for in terms of long term use. What I mean is that a particular panel may be rated for a certain round at a certain velocity and maybe for a certain number of hits. However, that may differ from what they recommend in terms of maintenance. In other words, if a panel is struck by a round and you do nothing to repair/replace the damaged component, then in terms of liability and warranty you may not be covered for a subsequent hit by another round 6 months down the road.

Certainly hso's recommendation of 3/4 inch AR500 will work. However, at 31 pounds per square foot, that might present a few challenges.

Cost for some materials, like bulletproof polycarbonate, might give you some sticker shock.

http://www.eplastics.com/Lexan_Bullet_Resistant_Polycarbonate_Sheet

Bullet resistant fiberglass panels are probably the most cost effective solution for you. Armorcore makes some, probably around $400 for a panel, give or take. You'll have to do some more research on this yourself.

Alternatively, you could make your own bullet resistant panels. It shouldn't be all that difficult and you can test what you make for reliability and durability. Laminating some combination of sheet steel, wood, polycarbonate, and fiberglass, for example, should build up a servicable panel.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will go with the ballistic panel. I hope it never is hit and I don't expect it to. Sort of like a fire extinguisher, good to have but hopefully never used. I am not concern about the issue of fumes. When the garage doors are open there is a lot of air circulation and it is not different from shooting outside on that score. I could shoot outside, but want to have a more controlled and safer environment.
 
If time is cheap and materials are dear, you might consider replacing the window with three common plexiglass panels in a frame an inch or so apart secured with silicone sealant and the air space filled a clear liquid, from the lighter water up to heavy mineral oil and the top of the frames drilled and sealed with short lengths of dowel rod. Should the first pane be hit the ball will expend most of it's energy in the fluid with the second pane as "insurance."
 
Get a 3/4" AR 500 panel to cover that window.

Good lord! He's trying to stop pistol rounds, not .50 BMG. AR500 of one third that thickness will stop multiple direct hits from 7.62mm NATO ball.

Not to mention the weight of a 3'x5' 3/4" steel plate. You're talking close to 500 pounds.

With some of the talk here, methinks some folks need to do a little reading. Even my .50AE Desert Eagle with very warm handloads wouldn't reliably penetrate 1/8" mild steel at only 5 yards.
 
I'd put a piece of 1/4" mild steel over the window if a ND is the only way you can see it ever being hit. If you don't think that's enough put two layers of 5/8" sheetrock on the exposed side. Maybe hinge it from the wall or ceiling and be able to latch it in place easily to also secure that window for storms and/or security? Or hinge it at the bottom so you can fold it down to be a bench in front of the window when you aren't shooting? Without pics it's kinda hard to picture the layout.
 
. I am not concerned so much about missing the trap as the window is about 5 feet from the trap, but rather that a friend in handling a firearm will have a negligent discharge in the direction of the large window, which is on the same wall as the workbench, but on the other side of the building. I try to think about all the possible safety contingencies.


If that's the case, then why aren't you concerned about the overhead garage doors and service door? Why only one window? If your shooting friends have that poor of gun handling techniques, odds are a ND by them will not just be in the direction of the one window on the other side of the building.

On my son's property we had a range set up in his pole shed so we could shoot in inclement weather. Basically opened one garage door and shot towards the berm and the bluff behind it. The increase in noise from being surrounded by building, plus the florescent lighting drove us nuts.....even when having the bench right in the doorway. Found building a covered deck to shoot from outside was much more pleasant while still protecting us in bad weather. If you can shoot outside, I'd recommend you consider this also.
 
Good lord! He's trying to stop pistol rounds, not .50 BMG. AR500 of one third that thickness will stop multiple direct hits from 7.62mm NATO ball.

Not to mention the weight of a 3'x5' 3/4" steel plate. You're talking close to 500 pounds.

With some of the talk here, methinks some folks need to do a little reading. Even my .50AE Desert Eagle with very warm handloads wouldn't reliably penetrate 1/8" mild steel at only 5 yards.

Methinks hso's remark about using 3/4" AR500 was tongue in cheek. I really don't think he actually meant to invest in 31 pounds/square foot of steel for this.

;)
 
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