My "New" S&W Pre Model 10

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Tallball

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I have wanted an old-fashioned good-shooting S&W 38 special, but didn't want to pay $500 or more. I haunted Gunbroker for a few months and finally got this one for $136. It has definitely been shot before! The rifling is slightly pitted and a little shallow, but it locks up very tight. I won't get a chance to shoot it until next weekend, but so far I feel like l "stole it". I love antiques! According to the serial number, this one was made in 1938.
 

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Interesting - it has 1920's grips on it. Can you put a (edited if you want) serial number? And I'd love to see better pictures. That's what I like to collect - teens, 20s and 30s model of 1905s.
 
Someone said the ejector looked like 1920's also, but the 545xxx serial number should be 1938. I will try to get some better pictures later today.

If you call the police, they may want their gun back! The company I bought it from gets some of their stock from police sources - seizures and old evidence and so forth.
 
Tallball

Definitely an oldie but a goodie from the looks of things. Will await your range report to see how well it shoots.
 
pre model 10

Hello all
I'm not positive but I believe the older S&W revolvers don't have the drop safety on the hammer.
Just something to be aware of or look into.
of course you may know allready.
I love my pre 10
Excellent price.
regards
Mike
 
Nice score !! Now, have the barrel cut down into a snubbie, have it Cerakoted in desert camo, and put some Hogue rubber grips on it !!!! :D
 
Hello all
I'm not positive but I believe the older S&W revolvers don't have the drop safety on the hammer.
Just something to be aware of or look into.
of course you may know allready.
I love my pre 10
Excellent price.
regards
Mike
Yes & no.
They do have a hammer block.
It is not as robust as it should be and during the Second World War a US Navy Sailor was killed when he dropped his Victory Model on the deck of a ship and it landed on the hammer spur.
This prompted a change in the design to the one still in use on current production S&Ws.
 
Here are a few more pictures:
 

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Thanks for the info about the drop safety. I have never owned a revolver this old before.
 
Sheesh. Stop calling it 'old' and 'antique'.

This Number 2 Old Army is old. Made in 1863. Definitively an antique.

No2OldArmy02_zps0c4ea28a.jpg




Your M&P is a modern revolver compared to that. I believe it has the old style hammer block in it, the type that was pinned to the side plate. This revolver shipped in June of 1939 and it has the old style hammer block in it.

MPRoundButt01.jpg



This is the style of hammer block that came in this gun.

hammerblock_zpsee9433ec.jpg


You should be able to see it. Shine a strong light into the hammer opening in the frame. Cock the hammer very slowly. You should see a small bar of steel being pushed to the side as the hammer is cocked.

And let's be clear about that incident in the Navy. The dead man did not drop 'his' revolver. Dropping a revolver from waist high would probably not disable the old style hammer block, unless it was clogged with oil. There were lots and lots of them made, and this was the first reported incident of a failure, at least so far as I am aware. The gun in question was dropped from somewhere on the superstructure of a destroyer, and fell to the deck, where it discharged, killing the poor soul. No telling how far it fell before striking the deck.



I do have my doubts if you revolver is from 1938. Notice the large 'mushroom cap' knob on the end of the ejector rod in this gun. It shipped in July of 1906. From what I can see, your revolver has the same sort of cap on the ejector rod. Compare it to the narrow, knurled end of the ejector rod on my 1939 gun. I'm not sure exactly when the style of ejector rod changed, but yours looks earlier.

MampP5inch01_zps8b5013a7.jpg

The serial number range for the 38 M&P 4th Change is very broad, starting with 241,704 in 1915 and going up to 700,000 in 1942. Where 545xxx fits in that range is anybody's guess unless you have documentation.

I will tell you this. If it was not made previous to 1899, it is not an antique in the eyes of the U S Government.

P.S. The grips on your revolver are the type generally installed at the factory from about 1920 to about 1929. If you decide to replace them, PLEASE contact me.
 
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Thank you Driftwood for your explanations and pictures. I very much appreciate your time and effort. I will look into the hammer area this evening. "Antique" is a somewhat ambiguous term in everyday English, but I agree completely that the design is "modern" in that it's not much different than those made currently. I checked the serial number against a list I found online, but I read in a forum once that not everything on the Internet is true. :)
 
but I agree completely that the design is "modern" in that it's not much different than those made currently.

The internals of your revolver have changed very little from 1905 until today. Assuredly there have been some changes, but most of them are very minor. What other products can anyone think of that are basically the same today as they were 109 years ago?
 
Nice score !! Now, have the barrel cut down into a snubbie, have it Cerakoted in desert camo, and put some Hogue rubber grips on it !!!!

Somebody git a rope!!!!;):D
 
I have a '24. Didn't go cut down, camo cerracote and goodyears. Mine went to Ford's instead. Before that trip it didn't look much better than yours. Here it is today.

1924MampP-1.jpg

1924MampP3.jpg

Just as blasphemous to some, but it pleases me. Something about classic, elegant lines makes a 1905 a piece of industrial art to me.
 
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