set screws in rcbs dies

I always put a single lead shot in the ring under the set screw to avoid any damage to the threads on the die. That way the screw don't have to be torqued so tight as the lead will form to the threads on the die. I have yet to strip one, hope this helps.

Most of my RCBS dies have clamping lock rings.

I wouldnt swap for steel set screws. I think they used brass for a reason. Marring or dinging a die over a few cent set screw doesnt seem like a good idea. I'f buy more brass ones, though I dont recall having to adjust the lock rings much once set.

The lead shot under the set screw is good. I think the older RCBS dies I had that had the set screw instead of clamps had the lead shot under the screw.

I hate the brass set screws more than most people hate Lee lock rings. I bought a bag of steel ones and throw the brass ones away. Put a lead shot under the steel one and it works great.

Thanks. You learn something new every day! Like it or not.

+1

The old RCBS lock rings with steel screws and a lead shot pellet work perfectly.

Once set, they stay set, until you want to un-set them.

Then loosen the screw and whack the lock ring on the bench to jar the lead loose and they are free.

rc

If I remember right, the instructions in RCBS dies would recommend using a lead shot, which I have been doing for as long as I can recall.

And as already recommended, I wouldn't use a steel set screw, thus risk damaging the threads.

GS

Call RCBS and they will send you (free) more set screws and lead shot than you will use in a lifetime!.

RCBS will only send me the dratted brass screw, which I despise. I bought a bag of 100 steel for less than $10. I also reload shot shells so lead shot isn't a problem. As long as you put a lead shot under the steel screw it won't hurt the threads. See rcmodel's post. Been doing it for years.

They aren't as cheap as set screws, but less headaches. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/11...cking-ring-7-8-14-thread?cm_vc=ProductFinding

I bought Hornady locking rings for ALL my dies, best solution. Keeps the die more square to axis.

Andrew Leigh said:

I bought Hornady locking rings for ALL my dies, best solution. Keeps the die more square to axis.

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I also use Hornady lock rings; the very best in my opinion.

It's sad that the folks at RCBS are too stupid to realize their lock rings need redesigning.

I had read that the Hornady rings stripped out very easily and thus not to be bought. Lyman was supposedly the best.

Andrew Leigh said:

I bought Hornady locking rings for ALL my dies, best solution. Keeps the die more square to axis.

Click to expand...

How does the Hornady provide for sitting more square to the axis than the others?

I always put a single lead shot in the ring under the set screw to avoid any damage to the threads on the die. That way the screw don't have to be torqued so tight as the lead will form to the threads on the die. I have yet to strip one, hope this helps.

Click to expand...

this is something i have done for many, many years, i also swapped the brass for steel set screws, i have even made my own steel set screws when none were available locally.

Gun Geezer said:

How does the Hornady provide for sitting more square to the axis than the others?

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When the locking nut is tightened you pull the side opposite into the thread and you move the side of the screw out of the threads. the two sides at 90 degrees have the normal tolerance in the threads so the die is free to move axially.

Now when you have a split nut the dynamic changes. The threads in the locking ring are drawn into the entire circumference of the die threads creating better and more positive seating.

Gun Geezer said:

I had read that the Hornady rings stripped out very easily and thus not to be bought. Lyman was supposedly the best.

Click to expand...

Whoever wrote that either out-right lied or doesnt know how to properly tighten a screw. I've cranked some of my Hornady lock rings tighter than they needed to be and in my years of reloading i have yet to strip one of those screws. The screws don't need to be gorilla torqued, just snug them up and go about another 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Been there; done that. On a couple I drove the tip of a very small blade screw driver into the set screw to be able to unscrew it. After that, I was a bit more careful and bought a bag full of the new (new at the time) "pincer" type rings with wrench flats. http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/Dept/reloading/die-parts-and-acc-point-/die-lock-ring

Not that they can't be stripped, but I also learned I wasn't building a bridge and didn't need King Kong any longer to secure the rings.

notaglockfanboys' solution is by far the simplest and oldest solution. I have dies 50 years old with the little lead shot still intact and lock rings that don't move

I have never seen an instance where a setscrew needs to be tight enough to strip out the hex socket (50+ years as machinist/mechanic, w/25 years construction equipment mechanic). I have seen a couple good die sets ruined from over tightening, both setscrews (stripping sockets and crushing threads on the die body) and lock rings (threads distorted on die body, corners gouged off and knurls removed with channel locks/vise grips). Easy does it!

It's not to hard to strip out a soft set screw, and they are pretty small..kinda like scope bases/ring screws they are tightened way more by most than they should be. Fixes are RCBS (other makers as well) are good about replacing parts in general, email the manufacture with the problem. Drill and tap for a 10/32, if using a set screw put a piece of lead shot between screw and die it will save marking the die as well as hold much better with the soft lead forming into the die threads. The best way is Hornady or Forster lock rings using the cross slot cut into the lock ring tightening around the die instead of a seat screw against the die. I have a Forester co-ax press and prefer the Hornady lock rings they are made of steel, but the Forester lock rings work just as well they are made of aluminum.

The post about Hornady lock rings being easy to strip is false. Horandy's dies come with the best lock rings of all that I have seen real steel with a slot cut and a screw to tighten around the die. Hornady recently started making a cheaper die set (very few dollars) that come with setscrew type rings. My opinion is that the stell cross slot type rings alone are worth the few dollars extra for Hornady dies compared to the cost savings dies I'm not sure of other differences in Hornady dies regular versus cost savings I think Hornady makes some of the best rifle dies in the business.

I have a few sets of RCBS dies, How often do you folks have to adjust lock rings that it is necessary to buy new lock rings as you strip out the set screws so much??
My dies are set and I very rarely have to loosen the lock rings??

Get extra set screws and lead shot from RCBS

Rule3 some use one set of dies for more than one rifle, maybe in 223 rem using the same die set for AR, and bolt gun. Adjustment of the dies between the two rifles to give the longest brass life while being easy to chamber may be desirable. Some others may be learning to adjust the dies setting the shoulder back a desired amount compared to the die manufacture instruction manual is another possibility. Whatever the case the setscrew should not be a problem, the lead shot may need replacing which is easy enough if you have to cut open a shot shell to get the lead shot a shot shell would give you enough to last a lifetime.

Quit using the nuclear Allen key. Set screws don't have to be more than snug.