My Ruger SP101 4.2" 327 magnum

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Tallball

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I have several 32 H&R magnum revolvers and a 32 long. The idea of the 327 sounded even better, so I talked myself into one of the new 4.2" SP101's when they came out recently.

The frame is smaller than medium-sized. The original grips are on the small side for my extra-large hands (so I got some larger wooden grips that fit me better). It is nice and solid without being too heavy. The sights are good. The single-action trigger is longer and heavier than average. The double-action trigger is heavy but smooth. You have to push down hard to cock the hammer. It balances okay, but is a little nose-heavy.

The stainless steel was polished, but not until the polishing marks were completely gone. There were no scratches or dings. The area near the back of the crane on the left looks a little crude. Overall the revolver is finished to the level of a quality product, but not a superior quality product, imho.

I have taken it to the range three times. I fired 100 or so rounds each time, reloads and various kinds of factory ammo.

I fired a box of factory 327 magnum ammo that felt kind of snappy. My FiL's milder 327 magnum reloads were easy to shoot. The various H&R magnum loads were mild. The S&W long had no recoil to speak of. The little revolver is stout and has a sizeable barrel with lug, so it is heavy enough to soak up some recoil compared to a 2" snub.

I could probably shoot it better if the trigger wasn't so uninspiring. The single-action is not so great. The double-action is smooth, but pretty heavy. Cocking it back for single-action starts off hard and gets worse as the gun gets hot and dirty. By the time I had shot a bunch of rounds through a bunch of handguns and broken a sweat, I used the double-action more because: a) it is smooth b) cocking the hammer is obnoxious with tired sweaty hands.

I can hit a paper plate every time at 7 yards with any ammo, no problem. But so what? Any handgun should be able to do that, really.

At roughly 10 or 15 yards I could keep them all on the smallish square paper targets, but that was about it. The spicier 327's seemed to be the most accurate. My FiL's mild 32 long loads were sort of centered on the paper target... sort of.

Overall I am mildly disappointed. I had hoped for better accuracy: brand-new, from a major manufacturer, nice heft and a longish barrel, and it was not what I call cheap.

So yeah, it shoots fine. The problem is that it really shoots no better than my Charter Arms, Taurus, or New England Firearms (H&R) 32 magnum snubs. In fact, the old NEF revolver that I got for $148 has such a superior trigger that I can easily shoot it better at most ranges, even with the little notch sights

I had hoped for more of a belt/range/plinking gun that was pretty accurate out to 25 yards or so. Maybe the trigger will improve over time. I will probably get more used to it. Your mileage will doubtless vary.

Here are some before and after pictures:

Ruger2032720l_zpstaovqoj9.jpg


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I have a Taurus 2" stainless 327, and a 7.5" Ruger Single Seven 327. I also have a 4" 357 SP101. The first thing I did to the SP101 was install the Wolff reduced power spring kit in the SP101. From the factory, the springs in the SP101 are very heavy. Changing out the springs will go a long way to helping the gun, and you shoot it better.

Were you shooting freehand or rested? Do you jerk the trigger slightly when it breaks? A-Zoom makes 32 H&R Snap Caps. I would suggest getting some, and watch the sights as you dry fire it.

At 25 yards, freehand, 8" paper plate accuracy would be all I would expect from a box stock Ruger. Ransom Rest accuracy should be sub 2"
 
When I switched springs to 10 lbs, I had light hammer strikes on small rifle primers, which is what you will likely find on Speer ammo. I suggest 12 pounds, but that trigger doesn't have a lot of leverage apparently. It was still a stiff pull I would like to have improved at 10 pounds.
 
I would expect my gun like that to be most accurate with 327 Federal Magnum and not some recoil-averse reload. If you wanted a 327 Federal Magnum, that's the ammo you should be shooting, pretty much full up, not the subsonic, girly stuff. You already have other guns for calibers, which the SP101 is alternatively capable of shooting.

When shooting cartridges shorter than the chamber, I expect that results may not be optimal.
 
I am a cheapskate and spoiled by excellent handguns with great triggers that I got inexpensively. If I pay over $500 for a handgun, I expect a good trigger right out of the box. If it ends up needing springs and fluff & buff to have a good trigger, it wasn't a good deal for "full price", imho.

Doubtless I will find which ammo works best with it. Perhaps my expectations for accuracy with 32 SW long were overly high. But my 44's and 45's and 357's have not had extremely noticeable dropoffs in accuracy when using shorter cartridges.
 
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Tallball, thanks for writing about your impressions of this gun. I would like to have one myself, and these are all good things to know.
 
I took my Sp101 to my favorite gunsmith when I got it back, the difference with the trigger with the before and after was amazing.
Mine has a 4-5 lb trigger pull now and a really good, crisp let off.

I really liked the gun and wanted to keep it so I spent another $60.00 and had the spring kit put in it and had the action honed, I was to impatient to wait for it to break in.
 
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I am unclear on the OP conclusion as to whether the claim is that the gun is not accurrate, or if the OPs discomfort with the trigger does not allow him to shoot it accurrately.
 
He will have to answer that, but with me I didn't shoot mine well until I had the trigger job done on mine.

He doesn't sound in favor of doing that or at least is disappointed with having to have it done.

Of all my Rugers my SP101 definitely has the best trigger now. My GP100 probably has the worst, and the same gunsmith did the same thing to it that he did with my SP101.
The GP100 has way to much trigger creep.


The GP100 had better break in or it won't be around here very long. It is just plain hard to shoot accurately, I'm obviously guessing but I suspect that's what the OP is struggling with.
 
He will have to answer that, but with me I didn't shoot mine well until I had the trigger job done on mine.

He doesn't sound in favor of doing that or at least is disappointed with having to have it done.

Of all my Rugers my SP101 definitely has the best trigger now. My GP100 probably has the worst, and the same gunsmith did the same thing to it that he did with my SP101.
The GP100 has way to much trigger creep.


The GP100 had better break in or it won't be around here very long. It is just plain hard to shoot accurately, I'm obviously guessing but I suspect that's what the OP is struggling with.
Do you have snap caps? If not, buy some.

Then, dry fire your GP100... a lot.

It will smooth, and it will smooth well.
 
I too find the factory grips are on the small side for my hand. Can I ask what grips you have and where you got them?
Thanks.
 
It is probably accurate enough on its own. Doubtless the problem is with me. It is such a handy size and caliber that I may have the trigger and springs taken care of eventually.

The grips are from eBay. They are some of the foreign exotic hardwood grips that are IIRC from Thailand. I paid $40 for them. This is the third set of Thai eBay grips I have bought. The first two were perfect. This set needed a few bumps with a dremel to fit just right.
 
RealGun said:
When shooting cartridges shorter than the chamber, I expect that results may not be optimal.

You might expect that, but it's rarely so, at least to a point. Full wadcutters in .38spl cases are generally just as accurate from a gun chambered in .357mag as they are from one chambered in .38spl. USPSA shooters who're shooting .38 Short Colts from their 8-shot .357mags often report no loss of accuracy.

Tallball said:
If I pay over $500 for a handgun, I expect a good trigger right out of the box. If it ends up needing springs and fluff & buff to have a good trigger, it wasn't a good deal for "full price", imho.

It's a rare factory trigger that can't be improved, often dramatically, with a good action job by a gunsmith who knows what they're doing. I just bought a Performance Center 627 for north of $1k, and a little action tuning definitely helped it. Maybe I'm a trigger snob, but I don't expect any factory trigger to be up to snuff. If I find one that is (I've only ever found a single one so blessed), I consider it a bonus.

Cooldill said:
Then, dry fire your GP100... a lot.

It will smooth, and it will smooth well.

I'e said it many times, but I'll say it again: There are manifold benefits to dry fire, but it's no substitute for an actual action job.


As mentioned, if you are able to and haven't done so, try shooting it off a rest or a supported position, and use an appropriate bullseye-type target (e.g. NRA B-8) to give you a precise aiming point.
 
I just put a set of Hogue's on my sp101. Sure helps me shoot it better.
I guess I would have to agree the trigger is not as good as some others. But it not bad ether.
I am working mine in the old fashioned way. By shooting the hack out of it.:D

Certainly though if I am going to take a 327 mag out hunting and want a better than average chance at a head shot on Mr Rabbit.
I am taking my Single seven.

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I really wanted one of the .327 versions but I don't have space to reload yet... so I picked up a .357 version yesterday!

Overall my impressions are the same as the others. It is a little rougher in some areas than I would have expected and the trigger is much different thatn the others I am used to. However for $500 I still think it was a deal.

I'm off to the range now to shoot it, if I find anything I don't like I will tinker with it until I do.

HB
 
Originally Posted by RealGun
When shooting cartridges shorter than the chamber, I expect that results may not be optimal.
You might expect that, but it's rarely so, at least to a point.

You can say that, but I have a read a number of comments expressing concern about the jump a bullet has to make while unsupported. Who's right?
 
You and others may express concern, but many of those who've actually put it to the test (myself included) have generally found it to be a non-issue. I'd trust actual experience over relying what I think ought to make intuitive sense.
 
You and others may express concern, but many of those who've actually put it to the test (myself included) have generally found it to be a non-issue.

Yep, a true statement. To point of the 327 mag, here are 10 shots from a 327 Blackhawk (longest cylinder out there in 327) shooting 32 S&W Long wadcutters @ 25 yards.

TgtWC1_zps1a9d908f.jpg
 
Chamber length versus cartridge dimensions does beg the question of when or whether it ever matters. For example, why not overbore 357 chambers, so there are fewer problems with a cylinder that won't close. My GP100 went back for that. Why play it so close? Maybe it's the highest pressure rounds, i.e. the longest, that require the closer fit.

Is there ever leading inside the chamber, where the bullet didn't quite hit the throat straight on?
 
I can't offer data, but the rounds with bullet ogive lengths near minimum COL for the crimp groove, and which then bound up the Single Seven, worked fine in my SP101. I reserved the bullets for 32 H&R and ordered the shorter ogive bullet from Penn Bullets to use in 327 Federal Magnum loads, short of what I would use my gas checks for.
 
The cylinder in my SP101 chambered in 32 H&R Magnum is 1.520 inches long.
 
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