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BP electronic ignition problems

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CANNONMAN

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Apr 16, 2014
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I have been trying to create an electronic match. I settled on the Christmas bulb idea. An exposed filament burns quickly with a 9v. Next I coated this with a slurry of BP. No luck with the 9v. So I tried my truck. The amperage from my truck set this off after 2 seconds. Not acceptable. Time to ask for help. "HELP!" OK, so... 1. too much slurry? 2. Try something more reactive like a flash powder as a coating? 3. What is/are the recipes for something else? Pre-built, like Estes rocket igniters are a bit pricy and I did not build them. I've seen a few utube's but I don't seem to have the success. Thanks for ideas and/or directions to go.
 
You might want to check with some model rocketeers that use solid fuel engines like Estes makes.

Yes I read the OP I mean actually talk to the rocketeers not watch a You tube or read on line.

One can learn a lot from 12 year old boys.....if one survives the experience.

-kBob
 
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Get the coated-wire igniters for those rocket engines.
I used them all the time w/ BP in Officers' Call events
(...back when this was still a free country) ;)
 
Cannonman, I just tried a little experiment. I used a 13.8V DC power supply capable of sourcing up to 20 amps of current - you could duplicate this with your car battery.
I connected a 6-inch length of 32 AWG nichrome wire across the power supply's output terminals. This wire is supposed to run 10.5 ohms per foot, so we're talking about roughly 5 ohms of resistance (somewhere in the neighborhood of 2.7 amps of current).

Within one second after switching on the power supply, the wire was glowing bright orange -

Nichrome_32_zpsravw4pqw.jpg

I lifted a partial spoonful of BP up to touch the wire, and yes indeed, it ignited. When the powder "poofed" it broke the hot wire.

I would suggest a one-inch length of this 32 AWG nichrome wire connected to the end of some speaker wire (20 AWG or larger). Add some type of pyro coating to the nichrome wire segment, as you wish.
If you can keep the speaker wire down to a reasonable length (a few yards?) the ignition time should be well under one second.
 
I've used a spark plug wire to instantly ignite BP, though I categorically refuse to share the totally non-lethal, hilarious, and stupidly dangerous details.
 
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I have been trying to create an electronic match. I settled on the Christmas bulb idea. An exposed filament burns quickly with a 9v. Next I coated this with a slurry of BP. No luck with the 9v. So I tried my truck. The amperage from my truck set this off after 2 seconds. Not acceptable. Time to ask for help. "HELP!" OK, so... 1. too much slurry? 2. Try something more reactive like a flash powder as a coating? 3. What is/are the recipes for something else? Pre-built, like Estes rocket igniters are a bit pricy and I did not build them. I've seen a few utube's but I don't seem to have the success. Thanks for ideas and/or directions to go.

My uncle used to use the filament from an old toaster oven hooked to 12v.

If you must use Christmas tree bulbs the better idea would be to carefully cut the glass bulb, fill the bulb with powder then use glue to replace the bulb. The less oxygen the longer the filament will burn and the greater chance of ignition.
 
I know the rocket igniters work. I don't like the cost or the fact that I did not make them. The car battery also works but I want a hand held gizmo. My truck also generates 110AC but the crew cab F150 is a bit much to hold in your hand. I want to build a ridiculous hand held control device with lites, key safety red switch and such. Building this is not the problem. Its getting a few 9v batteries to fry a little piece of wire dipped in some kind of quick hot burning stuff.
 
Again, actually talk to some rocketeers. My gang had kids that used everything for controllers from touching bare wire ends to clothespin "booby traps", to aluminum project boxes with early giganto LEDs noting controller status and a Three wafer key to unlock a fire button cover.

The wire ties used on sandwich bread bags is typically nichrome steel.

Hmm Does anyone make a digital Camroc payload these days? Might could even build one cheap enough to have it transmit and not bother revering I bet with old cell phone parts....hmmm, I have to get a new gun project going be fore stuff like that distracts me.

I wonder if some surplus place might have a working Claymore clacker. I seem to recall the earliest canvas Claymores used a GI angle head flashlight with an adaptor to set of the claymore. Maybe mod out a old Maglight four cell light as a controller.

OK that's it I am outta here.

-kBob
 
Cannonman, it sounds like you could use a 12V NiMH battery pack, like the RC car guys use..... something compact/portable which is capable of sourcing over 5 amps of current.

Why the fixation with 9v batteries?
 
KBob... I don't know if I like the way you think better or reviling in the belief that you could be a dangerous man! I have thought about wireless detonation. BUT! these are cannons and they are quite violent when discharging. I fear a retracted life of any radio controller. Absolutely I want to build something very similar to the rocketeers. The key is I want to be the one to build it. ofitg is spot on about upping my amperage. I just kinda like the way you can string the 9's together and make them fit in about anything. Anyone know what the rocket guys are using for wire and what their coating them with?
 
CVA tried electronic ignition and it is now a discontinued item. If you decide to try a Ohmically heated wire ignition like in model rocketry, realize that you will now have a gun that ignites slower than a matchlock musket. From an old rocketeer from the late 1960's I know that a hot igniter wire resting against a combustible solid propellant takes a big fraction of a second (or more) to ignite.

Don't let that stop you however, trying something out it half the fun!
 
Yes rcm, best site I found. I still feel like I'm cheet'n a bit. I wanted to try something with K perchlorate but ya start gett'n looked at when ya up the anti. I think this is where I'm gonna end up. Thanks for reminding me. I also was unaware of how difficult it becomes to weld 2" bars of aluminum. I'm using this for the rest of the cannon. The wheels and cannon are powder coated and have lacquer like finishes. The rest will be polished aluminum. The trunyon rests on bearings just because. It's really to far out looking there to shoot with a fuse. The ball mold is done and I'm casting ammo in preparation. My BP is based off a 2Kg batch which yields a bit over 4.6# with binder. I've contacted the local BLM and made them aware that I'm gonna be shoot'n sum rather unorthodox weapons and even odder targets. So far everything looks like a go. Hopefully mid August there will be a new post with a video.
 
Again, actually talk to some rocketeers. My gang had kids that used everything for controllers from touching bare wire ends to clothespin "booby traps", to aluminum project boxes with early giganto LEDs noting controller status and a Three wafer key to unlock a fire button cover.

The wire ties used on sandwich bread bags is typically nichrome steel.

Hmm Does anyone make a digital Camroc payload these days? Might could even build one cheap enough to have it transmit and not bother revering I bet with old cell phone parts....hmmm, I have to get a new gun project going be fore stuff like that distracts me.

I wonder if some surplus place might have a working Claymore clacker. I seem to recall the earliest canvas Claymores used a GI angle head flashlight with an adaptor to set of the claymore. Maybe mod out a old Maglight four cell light as a controller.

OK that's it I am outta here.

-kBob
As a former boy who nearly blew up the family home with home made nitroglycerine, gunpowder, nitrourea, sprengel explosives, fulminate of silver etc and as the father of multiple boys now I think you might be thinking of days past. i never see kids outside these days and when they are forced outside by their father ( if they know who they are ) like mine are then they just mope around until they can get back to their computers.
 
Today's experiment with the 32 AWG nichrome wire - I didn't have any large-gauge, twin-conductor wire laying around here, so I used an 8-foot length of 24 AWG speaker wire (this should simulate a 30-foot length of 18 AWG speaker wire). I soldered a one-inch length of the nichrome wire at one end of the speaker wire -

igniter_zpsxpemptsl.jpg

I powered it up with a 9V Duracell alkaline battery. From the moment the switch clicked, it took about 1/2 second for the nichrome wire to light up -

9v_ign_zpsxjv2w4d0.jpg

The speaker wire plus nichrome wire measured 2.2 ohms on my meter, but the switch added another 0.9 ohms to the circuit...... 3.1 ohms altogether, almost 3 amps of current flow, very similar to my experiment with the big power supply.
I'm a little surprised, I wasn't sure the 9v battery would source that much current.

...
 
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Yeah, I had similar results. Problem is that seems waaaay tooo long to wait. It feels like a hang fire. I want to flip the switch an BOOOM! And try and coat your wire with a bit of BP. I got an even longer time and required greater amps. That's when I went to a filament. Any idea on a "faster" wire would be great. Right now its like the time when ya cant see the fuse, wondering if you have a hang fire and then BOOOM! It's amazing how two to three seconds can seem like a lifetime.
 
Cannonman,

You have me confused with someone else as I never suggested wireless.

I actually went to Demo school at Velsek Training area by Graffenhowr in 1975.....radio bad...ungawa! Light weigh poncho..bad...ungawa! Gloves..well you get it.

You want a long hairy wait? Try setting off a 2 1/4 block of C4 with six inches of det cord, one round M80 7.62 Nato ball, and the paper matches in C-rations. Notice there is no blasting cap electric or non electric involved.

Small delays are nature of the beast unless you want to spend some real money. Saw more than one actual electric blasting cap take second or third twist from yea olde blasting machine or have a half second wait a bit. One is never sure if it was just the extra twist or a hang fire cooking off.

"Just some cannon fuse, PVC pipe, and common household chemicals."

"Why'd you have the cannon fuse?"

"For my cannon."

Wish I could get a version without the blue language, my kids asked to turn off tremors in just a couple of minutes cause of the cussing.

-kBob
 
Back when I played with model rockets...lessee, I'm 63, was 16 at the time, you do the math....I did notice that the coated nichrome wire had a delay to it off the Estes launch pad I had powdered by 4 D cells IIRC. So, I built a pad from wood and set it up with a control panel with leads to my ol' man's truck's battery. Much quicker ignition. :D

That's my $.02 on the model rocket igniters. :D
 
I saw awhile back were there was a thread about making your own caps. Is the stuff their made of a consideration for a wire coating to increase my burn? And KBob, any time you wanna come out and shoot my cannons and share your stories... well the doors always open. Lit'l BBQ and beer post destruction. I'm planning on going out with the guys and getting rid of a bunch of slate from the pool tables that have been collected over the years. Would like a slow-mo cam. Hope to post some video soon. [I kinda wonder what one would find in KBob's garage?]
 
I make my own percussion caps with a "Tap-O-Cap", but one uses cap pistol roll caps for the ignition. Haven't made any in a while. Been finding percussion caps at the LGSs around.

I never could make the white part of a match work (antimony pentasulfide IIRC). Must be a trick to it as some say it works. If you could coat THAT in powder form around a nichrome ignitor wire, might work just as a match works. The coated wires work fine and even non-coated nichrome ignitor wire will work to set off model rocket engines with enough juice, a 12 v car battery for instance. I'd bet the coating unnecessary for black powder with enough amps, too.
 
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