Just did a rebuild on my 1906 Winchester pump .22. It has mismatched upper and lower receiver parts so it's never been quite right, plus a headspace issue. Fixed lots of little problems such as the breech block not locking into place and corrected most of the feeding problems.
It's worth trying with an oversized nipple. One of my Walkers had a habit of blowing nipples out of the cylinder. I tapped and threaded it for 1/4 28 nipples and haven't had a problem since.
Try hair curling iron papers, they burn completely, are tough and basically waterproof. Plus you get 1000 of them for a couple of dollars. Depending on the glue you use for the end cap a small ring can be left behind in the bottom of the chamber. They don't cause any problems.
Tough part is keeping the lines straight. If you keep your elbows tucked into your body and somewhat rigid it helps. Take breaks, after a while straight lines start looking wavy.
If you like chainfires keep loading without lube at the cylinder mouths. If you like cylinder jams keep loading with chambers that shave lead. That lead ring can cause lots of aggravation by getting caught between the barrel and cylinder. None of my revolvers cut lead off a ball. My chambers are...
It's interesting about cappers being useless on a Remmy. I have a brass frame ASM that a capper works on and a Pietta that it won't. That is until recently. I opened up the wells the nipples sit in with an end mill and now you can use a capper. Both an inline and snail type capper will fit it.
Bad part is it's not a particularly easy fix. Your comment about the sight not being clocked right is kinda a give away about the assembly on this one. The fix is to pull the barrel and set it back and then adjust the B/C gap. Uberti really should address this one.
Most of my supply of caps are CCI 11, if I have nipples that don't like them I turn them down until the caps fit without forcing them on but still tight enough to not fall off.
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